Arisaka 7.7x58 and 6.5x50 respies ...

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BrocLuno

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As to reloading the 6.5 and the 7.7. A friend of mine gave me a loading press in pieces and pretty well stuck. It was her Dad's and he lived in Santa Barbara (near the sea) so it was pretty rusted from salt air. But, some oil and work and it's free and working pretty smoothly.

So I have to get some dies and decapper and all that for each caliber of interest. I'm leaning towards the Lee three die sets since they come with collet neck sizers and since I have a limited number of rifles, I can keep the reloaded ammo separate for each rifle. Once fired cases can be neck sized only to save on working the brass too much ...

I just got a Lyman 55 powder measure on eBay with the box and instructions for cheap enough. So now to start picking the loads of interest? I was thinking IMR 4064, but maybe one of you'all know of a good medium speed ball powder that will work well? I'm all ears and eyes to any input you'all can offer...
 
As to reloading the 6.5 and the 7.7. A friend of mine gave me a loading press in pieces and pretty well stuck. It was her Dad's and he lived in Santa Barbara (near the sea) so it was pretty rusted from salt air. But, some oil and work and it's free and working pretty smoothly.

So I have to get some dies and decapper and all that for each caliber of interest. I'm leaning towards the Lee three die sets since they come with collet neck sizers and since I have a limited number of rifles, I can keep the reloaded ammo separate for each rifle. Once fired cases can be neck sized only to save on working the brass too much ...

I just got a Lyman 55 powder measure on eBay with the box and instructions for cheap enough. So now to start picking the loads of interest? I was thinking IMR 4064, but maybe one of you'all know of a good medium speed ball powder that will work well? I'm all ears and eyes to any input you'all can offer...
I can't help with the loads but if you want that collet neck sizer I think you're looking for the 4 die "ultimate" set, 3 dies gets you the FL sizer, seater, and factory crimp die if I remember right. Not sure they make the neck sizer for those cartridges (don't quote me) but they will make you a custom set if they don't have one in production.
 
I have the lee set for the 7.7, and it did not come with the collet die. Which is fine, I just size only the neck with the full length die.
For the 7.7 im using imr4895, PPU brass, and PPU 150grn SBTs. For giggles i played with cfe223, 4064, and a few others but i found imr4895 to produce the best velocity and consistency. The 7.7 has a pretty large case for ball powders, i couldnt get cfe223 to ignite with standard primers.
 
H380 is a great powder for the 6.5 x 50. LOTS of flash from the carbines.
And it should meter through a 55 just a bit smoother than 4064.
Since you've not been reloading for the 6.5 x 50 before, I recommend you stay
down off the top charges (assuming the loads are for a Type 38, not a Type I).
Your cases will thank you for it!

H380 will also give good service in the 7.7 as well.
I did not have to use MLR primers, however better accuracy
has always been with H4895 or the IMR version of the same.

JT
 
OP, a couple of questions for you, are you new to reloading, or just new to these calibers?
Are you looking to load for a specific purpose, hunting, target shooting, or just to be able to shoot the old warriors?

I've been loading 7.7 with 150 gr over BL(C)-2. I am loading on the lower end of the charts.
I also have a 6.5 but am working through a batch my buddy had loaded with IMR4895. I haven't decided on what I will load them with yet.
I will probably be at the lower end as well.
I just load these to be able to shoot them, I'm not looking at pushing them.

I've picked up Privi brass for both from Grafs. I'm using the Lee die sets as well for both.
 
LoonWolf,

The Lee collet die for the .303 british will work fine for the 7.7 Jap round. I use the .303 collet die to neck size my 7.7 Jap cases and the .303 british "factory-crimp" die to lightly crimp them. I too have found IMR4895 to be best all-around powder for this cartridge. While slightly larger near the head, the 7.7X58 Jap is really a rimless .303 British (7.7X58R) case. Most reloading data for the two cartridges is interchangeable although some Jap loads might be too hot for the weaker Lee Enfield action.(OK in the stronger P-14 Enfields)
 
I have reloaded in the past, but it was all pistol/revolver stuff - 30 years ago.

My Dad brought an Arisaka home at the end of WW-II. A rusty last ditch mess that he dragged off a beach near Tokyo bay. It sat for 40 years until I soaked it in oil and cleaned it up (had little collector value), repaired the fore-stock, etc. I got some Prvi ammo from Grafs and we shot it at the range. 6 O'clock hold was right on the money.

That got me started. It's back in his gun locker and destined for his grandson. But, now I have a few I picked up here and there, so I'm interested. I have a 38 in pieces, a couple of 99's coming along, and T-I complete... So I'm tinkering and assembling while the bench comes together.... I have enough that when friends and relatives come by, we can go to the range and have some fun. But, that will burn through the limited supply. So when they have gone home, I'll be reloading. 100 yds will be max for them.

I'm also building some of these Bubba pick-up's into sleeved dead barreled shooters with scopes. So I might try to reach out to 300 (longest range we have). That'll just be for fun. None are complete enough except Pop's and the T-I, so they won't be shot in Mil-Surp competition. But that does not mean I don't want consistency. My shooting bud hunts with his 99 and has done well. So I imagine he'll ask me to reload for him too ...

They arrive in bits and pieces. Folks have a stock left over, or a receiver and trigger group, etc. I find appropriate parts to get a Bubba running and give it to the friend that started that one. It's their rifle, I just do some of the work. But, now there are a 1/2 dozen Arisaka's spread around the family and friends in shooting condition. None are pretty. But I've sort of latched onto this action as a building block for rifle projects.

I can't hack up an 03-A3, or an Eddystone. My conscience won't let me. And a couple of the ones in the family are close enough to be restored, so they are not hack candidates... But some busted Arisaka that was pre-hacked - that's a blank canvass :)

Once it's done (about 1 a year with tinker time), it needs testing and proving. So that's another 20 rounds at least. More reloading.

I also have a 303 to reload for, so the info above is helpful. I need to share where I can. And, yes, I'll crimp as I don't know how the nephew will handle stuff among others.

I have no need of max loads. Something above starting loads that will deliver consistency is the goal. Mid-pressure, mid-velocity will be most of what I load.

Yes, I'll load some max loads for the dead barrel sleeved guns just to see how they act. But, that won't be daily food for fun :D

Hope this helps? Seeing the spread of use, it would be nice to get 10 reloads out of the average case ...
 
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BrocLuno,
That's some neat tinkering. Would you mind explaining the dead barrel sleeved guns for me? I think it sounds as a shot out barrel with a sleeve inserted/attached? Is it the original caliber, or subcaliber?

I sort of stumbled into the Arisakas myself. My first one, a 99, came from a buddy who was deploying and gave it to me so it wouldn't stay around the house. That rifle and a Mossberg bolt 22 were given to his father as payment for some car work he had done. They were both in need of some TLC. The 99 had been visited by Bubba and had the usual cut stock and poor man's sporter job, and missing the rear sight pieces, it is an earlier series.
The second Arisaka was a Type 38 that I bought from a buddy, he thought it was a 99, but, no, 38. So, add another caliber to the mix. That one turned out to have a partial case stuck (nearly glued) into the chamber. We've worked on it, but I still think there is a part of the neck in the chamber leade area. Also, the chamber is a generous oversize in diameter. It has the full stock but is missing the buttstock and sling swivel. I've been toying with the idea of renting a reamer and cutting the chamber, but it's not a cheap proposition.

I ended up buying a last ditch type 99 and it's complete. I also bought a 38 from another buddy and it's complete also.
I then picked up two rifles as parts guns, turns out one is a type 99, it was missing the bolt. Got one for it. The other is a training rifle, the types that are not for firing. It's an interesting mix of a 38 and 99.
And, now about 2-3 weeks ago, I picked up 2 barreled actions, one a 99 and the other a 38. I built the 38 around the beater with the messed up chamber. Shot it last week and it was pretty good, but it was only at 25 yards indoors and it was to function test it.
I need to get to the outdoor range and at least try it out at 100 yards.

I also own some 303 brits. A couple of No4 Mk1s, a P14, and a Ross. I'm trying to see what I do with the No4s to extend case life.

As you are getting into the rifle reloading, pay attention to the case length and how to check for incipient case separation. Walkalong has a very informative post on this https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/incipient-case-head-separation.734058/.

Oh, and I just last week picked up a 03-A3 that is sitting in a sporter stock but is otherwise correct. I happen to have a military stock set for it.
 
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I have an very good Jap 6.5 carbine and a Papa Nambu brought home from WWII. The 6.5 is a neat mild firing round. They shoot extremely high at 100 yds,
 

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Thanks guys.

Dog Soldier - nice pieces :)

The "extremely high" is all about a 6 o'clock hold and I've read they were zero'd at 200.. Put the sights on the belt buckle and you'll have a center mass hit out to 200 yds. That's the way the Japanese rifles that I have shot have all been set up.

Mstreddy, sounds like you are following (or leading) me to the same place. Too many Arisakas :) Well there is no such thing really :D

For those interested in "dead barrels" - they are not shot out. They are mil-surp barrels that have been tamed down a bit. As I said above, I only have one in full mil-surp wood and bands and that's Pops. All of mine have been to the Bubba shed before I got to them. But they are not hard to work on. OK, maybe tuning the Arisaka trigger is not fun, but it's all doable.

So my barrels are good inside, but rusty or beat, or nicked, or cut, etc. The outside is not pretty. But what you notice right off about Arisaka barrels, other than the Type 44, is that they are "slender." They have a chamber and then immediately drop to tubing diameter and a taper to muzzle.I think that Japanese used the wood to dampen any ring ...

So there is a guy on here (or another board...) that shoots 600 yds with a modified Mosin. He had the barrel externally sleeved by an outfit in Florida. He shoots pretty tight groups for an old battle rifle. So it got me to thinking. These slender barrels are like wind chimes. Hold one up, tap it, and they will ring.

It has always been my contention that any rifle that "prefers" one load over another is really asking for a sonic tune. The load, the pressure spike delay, the pressure curve overall, and the bullet traveling down the tube all try to make the barrel ring.

What I don't know is "are successful loads" the ones that cancel out the harmonics, or do they play to the barrel in a major key? My bet was/is that they cancel and the barrel acts dead - no ring ... So how to get there another way?

I'm fooling with these inexpensive (relative) slender barrels by making external sleeves and filling them with stuff. I only have one done right now, a 6.5 with a 1" aluminum tube. The barrel was wrapped in Cero-Tek epoxy (same high temp epoxy they use to bed actions for wing mounted guns in aircraft) and S-Glass cloth. The sleeve filled to the muzzle with the excess. It cured hard and dead as can be - no ring. Once I get it into an action, I'll assemble and take it to the range. I expect pretty repeatable accuracy with store bought ammo(PRVI) . We'll see...

The guy I mentioned above paid $400 to have his Mosin done by a custom shop that builds carbon fiber wrapped bull barrels. I wanted to do it for less than a $100. I didn't make my budget as I have $75 in the sleeve and barrel threading at the local machine shop. The outfit in FL will not disclose their matrix, but I think it's about the same...

The next one will be a 99 with a simpler sleeve of 1" copper tube indexed to a flash hider lathe ring and sitting on the chamber front bevel. I'll use Tapp Plastics "Hi Temp" mold-makers polyurethane poured into the space. It's good to like 400*F and it's about the consistency of a rubber eraser when cured. I suspect it'll deaden the barrel pretty well? We'll see...

All these barrels are early production chrome lined bores. They are just ugly on the outside. They are not perfect, but if you take a 31" military barrel and cut it back to 26", you are well back from any muzzle erosion. Most of my barrels have come pre-cut to something. I'm just standardizing on 26". I might go back to 24" if I see results from testing. I have extra barrels from before the prices went nutz this year ...

OBTW - all these Arisaka barrels have Metford Rifling. So they all look old and worn when you look at them. They are not. Metford has much less pronounced lands w/o as much of a sharp edge. If the rifling looks to be there, it is. I suspect the Japanese adopted this so they could fire dirty or corroded ammo and the rifles would be easy to clean ... The chrome lining was to combat corrosive primers.

So if you have some Bubba'd ones, make some fun projects out of them and fire away. You may surprise yourself. I'm hoping I will :)

The proof will be that one of my experimental barrels will eat a half dozen different hand loads w/o really opening up the grouping. I expect POI to move as speed changes, but am hoping that the spread will still be smallish and somewhat consistent ...
 
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Broc,
You are right those sights on them are set to 200 plus yards. I was only shooting at 25, so it was way high. But it was fun to be able to shoot it at all.

Yes, I'm almost at the mythical too many phase. I just wanted to learn more about them, and end up with a somewhat military correct example of the 38 and 99. I'm not a collector, but I do like to have a military example, rather than a sporter. I have followed a similar path in M1903s as well. Found some sporters, wanted a military configured piece. Found an low serial one from the CMP, but of course everyone says "DON'T FIRE IT!".

I did notice that the barrel warmed up quick on the 38 the other day. We put around 40 rounds through it, I had a few of my buddies try it out. Even the range owner shot it. He mentioned that he had given his father, a WWII vet, one as a gift some years before. But they never got around to shooting it.

My 2 "good" 38s have the 31" barrel on them. My 2 "good" 99s are not cut down either. IIRC they are around 26" or so. A couple of them still have the Mum. The first 99 that started this madness was the bubbad one. Besides cut down stock, it also had the sear (at least that's what I think it's called) tweaked -- "so well" that it fired on closing the bolt. I had a buddy build up the sear with some welded metal and then he worked it to where it was functional and smooth and safe!

That idea of the sleeve sounds good. Let us know how it works out.

You also mentioned 303 Brit. I buy the same bullets for both the Brit and the Jap.
And, yeah, I still look at the 38 with the bad chamber and keep thinking -- what can I do with this?
 
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OK, so you reload and that means you can do anything you want with the "bad chamber" Type 38. As far as I know, most Type 38's that got modified went to 257 Roberts. That's a pretty hot round and they seem to work well. The other option is a 6.5-308 which is more of a Wildcat, until Remington adopted it as the 260. It seems to work well and has won some competitions in the past. If I need to move any of my T-38's to anything other than stock, that's where I'll go. It can be tested with store bought ammo. If it does not work, just screw another mil-surp barrel back on :)

But, the heat treating on the T-38's I've played with is so hard, that reaming will be tedious and may take the cutter ... However, your stuck case bits could be pursueded to come out maybe by screwing a fine thread tap up against them and then knocking out with a rod from the muzzle. The difference in hardness between brass and Japanese steel should mean little marring of the chamber or throat, but full bite on the brass bits :)
 
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Broc Luno, Thanks for the Info. I will try the 6.5 at 200 yds. I have not fired it in many years. Do you have any loads that you would share? Thanks again.:)
 
The loads will depend on what your barrel slugs at? If it's close to 0.264, I'd start with Accurate 2495 at about 29 gr and use Hornady 129 gr Spire Points with a cannelure. They are a bit lighter than the original boolit, but I don't like to start heavy. I'm guessing as I have not read it anywhere, but I'm pretty sure the Japanese ammo was crimped. The primers were staked. So I'm betting they crimped their bullets too to prevent setting in ...

They are flat base and seal the barrel well. I'm also guessing that the original ammo was not boat tailed ... Play with the powder load and see if you can get grouping. If so, you have a bench mark to work up a bit more pressure and maybe a heavier longer bullet :)

AFAIK, they went through at least two bullet iterations in 6.5mm. They ended up around 140 grain. I think I recall them starting at 160 grain which would be those big long ones we see in the historic photos. But that production seems to have stopped by 1939 and they were down to the 140 or so ...

have fun :)
 
I just ordered some oversized bullets from Buffalo Arms - .312 instead of the more common .311 for the the 303 Brit. So I'll have something to play with if I have a "loose" barrel.

Price was OK, but not cheap. But I don't think any of us will be putting thousands down range anytime soon in these old rifles... :D

If you'all want spare parts (?), Tagmo1 on eBay is a former gun shop owner and Japanese Mil-Surp collector up in Wyo who buys and parts out Arisaka's. He keeps the best to sell to collectors and museums, but the ones with less value get parted out. He has about 200 parted out right now. I have some parts on order. I'm sure he can supply anything anyone wants to build a correct Mil-Surp out of whatever you have :)
 
mstreddy,

I had a thought on the partial shell extraction thing - make a chamber casting and then push the whole thing out with the shell part ...

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/462291/midwayusa-chamber-casting-alloy-1-2-lb

Read the instructions. It has an odd temp/size curve. It's smaller until it cools for an hour. In your case you only need to cast the forward half or whatever covers the stuck piece, so the chamber taper will let it come out at any temp and bring the stuck piece with it :)
 
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