Allen One1 wrote:
Aside from looking at burn rate what other factors need to be considered when choosing a rifle powder.
I wouldn't start from burn rate charts.
There is no universal standard for determining burn rate. Powders burn at different rate depending on whether they are burned in open air, in a confined space, in small quantities, in large quantities, at various temperatures, etc. Compare the burn rate charts published by Hodgdon with the chart published by Vihta Vuori. If you go by Vihta, the fastest powder is Hodgdon's Titewad while Hodgdon has Titewad at #6 with the fastest being Norma R1. It's not that one chart is "right" and the other "wrong", they're both right - they just used different methodologies.
Consult a published reloading manual or data published on-line by one of the powder manufacturers and look for a load that has a large difference between the starting load and maximum load. For example, if Powder A starts at 20 grains and reaches maximum at 22 while powder X starts at 21 and reaches maximum at 27, then I would start with powder X since it gives you more "room" to work with.
Of course, you need to select a powder you can actually find where you shop.
Also, some types of powder may flow through your powder measure more easily than others and that may be something to keep in mind.
Keep in mind that you are looking for the load that gives you the most accuracy,
NOT the highest velocity. No matter how fast and powerful you can launch a bullet, it is
worthless if you can't hit the target with it, so think accuracy, not speed.
Beginning with the Starting load (
and if you consult several sources and their Starting loads are all a little difference, it is okay to select a figure that is a consensus of your sources) load up some test rounds; five, maybe ten. If you won't get to the range for a while, load subsequent strings of 5, 10, whatever, increasing the charge incrementally as you go based on how "wide" the difference between the Starting and Maximum loads is. Make sure you package the rounds so you know what each was charged with - so you don't start at Maximum.
At the range, begin with the Starting load and fire a string for accuracy. Check the cases for pressure signs (i.e. disfigured case heads, extractor marks, cratered primers, etc.). If none are seen, move on to the next highest load, and so on. Stop when you reach maximum without pressure signs or you see pressure signs in the brass. If you see pressure signs, then you want to retreat to the next lightest load that didn't give you pressure signs and work around it.
Good luck.