ASM 1860 44 questions

[Bullseye]

Couple questions ... arrived in the mail yesterday.

First off, has anyone seen or owned one of these?

There are no proof marks that I can see. Maybe what looks like an M or W next to the serial numbers. The cylinder only has PATENT No. stamped on it with the naval battle scene. No patent number though.

Under the lever is the only markings which you can read in image 4.

I wonder if this is stainless steel. Sure looks and feels that way to me rather than being nickel plated. A wounded warrior magnet off my safe will attract but won't stick to it.

There is a steel wedge and what looks to be a replacement screw for it. It is quite loose. It holds in place but barely and since it is loose it leaves a gap. I can push this area tight to the frame but no daylight is showing through the cylinder gap.
I can remove the barrel by pulling the wedge out with my fingers, but the screw keeps it from falling out, as does the tab on the opposite side of the barrel on the wedge.

I'd like to have this tighter. I did shoot 6 light rounds yesterday after inspecting it, and then cleaned it up. It shot just fine.

So my questions are ...
A. Is this stainless steel?
B. Should I replace the wedge and screw?
C. Can I get a stainless wedge and screw?
D. Has anyone else had or have one of these?

Thank you!

 

[Fingers McGee]

Congrats on a great find.

A. Yes.
B. If they don't fit right.
C. No; but, you can get ASM replacement blued items from VTI Gunparts.
http://www.thehighroad.org/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=10141685. When you get them, soak them in white vinegar to remove the blue, then polish. The in-the-white finish will look like SS.
D. I've had a few of them over the years. They're good guns made before ASMs quality went down the tubes.

 

[Bullseye]

Thanks Fingers. I registered there at VTI now and am teetering on getting other parts as well. Wondering if a new wedge will make it tighter or if the slot may be too wide or elongated already on the cylinder.
Perhaps the wedge on this now is from another BP revolver and differs in size but is doing the job good enough even tho it's a tad narrow in width?

PS your link is not right. I think you wanted to insert this ...
http://www.vtigunparts.com/store/shoperror.asp

 

[Fingers McGee]

It's probably not the correct wedge for an ASM. Ordering the right part should tighten things up.

 

[Steve's 44cal]

Very sweet navel gel will take blued finish right off..Dear creek has ASM parts too

 

[Bullseye]

I got a slightly better price from Deer Creek and ordered an ASM 1860 wedge and screw, however, they did not have other parts for a Pietta revolver I wanted to upgrade a bit whereas VTI does. Thanks Gents, I'll update how this works out.


Oh rats ... I went back into the site and see they do have a wedge and screw for my 1851 Pietta as well. So I wrote them asking to add them and charge me or send an invoice.
The site could use some better header links.

 

[Ephraim Kibbey]

Hi sigsmoker,

Congratulations! Its a beauty.

The M/W marking near the serial number is probably ASM's pyramid shaped logo made by overlapping the A, S & M.

What is the date code on your specimen?

 

[Bullseye]

I can't find a date mark on this. The wedge came yesterday and I followed Fingers suggestions and it is good to go and very tight. I think it's even too tight, but I'll figure it out. A little fine sandpaper on the edge of the wedge will give it some room to turn better and the wedge will latch on the right side. If I push it in too far the cylinder is too tight.
Right now it is just at the edge of going through and spring locking itself in place.
The gap is sure gone tho between the barrel and frame.

 

[4v50 Gary]

BTW, easiest way to tell if something is stainless is to take a magnet to it Magnets don't stick to stainless.

 

[Hellgate]

Re magnate usage,
If the magnate doesn't stick on a frame it could be a nickeled brass frame often seen on fancy commemoratives. Also some SS alloys are magnetic, others not, and some in between. At least that is my take on using a magnate to determine alloy. The barrel & cylinder aren't going to be brass on any revolver.

 

[Bullseye]

If this were nickel plated, I would think that there would at least be some evidence of plating at the business end of the cylinder. Polishing like I have has not taken any plating off.
I was aware that a magnet may or may not stick to SS.
Taking the same magnet and trying this on a 1851 barrel and then on this 1860 tells me that it is almost attracted as much as on the 51.
I have never had a nickel plated revolver before but I would think that polishing nickel would give the finish a much brighter shine than this revolver is giving up.
Oh .. and one other thing. Where it is ground, in that area where you place a ball to use the plunger to load it is ground down and rough. That appears to be the same metal where it was ground away as the surface.
I just don't know.
There isn't a hint of steel showing, not under any scratches and there are no flake offs.

 

[expat_alaska]

BTW, easiest way to tell if something is stainless is to take a magnet to it Magnets don't stick to stainless.

That may be true (IDK) when referring to stainless firearms, but it is not absolutely true when testing non-firearms products made of "stainless" steel.

There are many grades of stainless steel in the industry and many are very ferrous.

Jim