Attn 1911Tuner: Let's talk about Colts

[Trebor]

Tuner,

I've been reading your Springfield test and rants with great interest.

I'm close to buying my first 1911. I'm holding out for a NRM Series 80 Govt Model or Commander. (The S70 are too far out of my price range right now).

What is the quality of the small parts in the NRM S 80 pistols? Do they have the same sort of extractor issues as SA?

I do NOT want to customize the pistol out of the box. My plan is to shoot the thing, ALOT, and find out what works for me before I start changing things just to change them. (i.e. I won't try to make the pistol "fit" me better until I know how it works for me "as-is." No new beavertail safetys or whatever until I know what I like or don't like about the stock configuration)

On the other hand, I DO plan to change any known problem parts that affect reliability and durability. I want to be able to put a couple thousand rounds through the pistol, and then take it to "gun skul" for a week and put more rounds through it, without it jamming or anything breaking.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Rob

 

[natedog]

I'm not Tuner, but I've been looking into the same thing. Colt uses some MIM, but much less than any other commercial 1911 (excluding very expensive builds in the +$1000). The found the MIM parts that broke, and replaced them with machined bar stock.

MIM
sear
mag catch
disconnector

CAST
safety lock
grip safety

FORGED
slide
receiver
barrel
slide stop

MACHINED from bar stock
hammer
all pins
bbl link
bbl bushing
trigger finger piece
ejector
firing pin
firing pin stop
extractor

By all accounts, NRMs are very reliable and accurate too, with nice fit and finish.

 

[1911Tuner]

Colts

Howdy Trebor,

Looks like natedog gave a pretty thorough list, except it omitted the hammer strut. It's blanked from steel plate, heat treated and finished. It's also redesigned, which makes it stronger than the original.

Notta problem nate...I usually forget to mention the link...


One caveat is in order. Even though Colt threw in the towel on the
MIM extractors some time ago, it's entirely possible that there are some
still left in the pipes that have'em. They still pop up from time to time
in NIB Colts. There's an easy way to tell. Take it out of the slide and flip
it over. If it's MIM, you'll see a rectangular shaped indention at
6 O'clock. It you don't see it, it's barstock. From what I gather, they've had no more problems since they went back to machined barstock extractors.

As far as Series 80 pistols go, I've had very few reports of any problems with the system, and have never actually seen one that gives problems.
Also easy to check for. Fire the gun about 200 rounds and remove the firing pin and spring and the plunger and spring from the slide. If there's no sign of hard contact between the firing pin or its spring and the plunger, it's working like it should.

The parts in the slide do require that you remove them for cleaning and a light oiling more frequently than the standard 70 and pre-70 series pistols,
depending on how dirty your ammo is...but it's not a big job as long as you know the sequence for removal. It's not quite as simple as the old design...but it's still quick and easy once you've done it a time or two.

Frame parts require detail-stripping at about the same frequency as the original design, and although the gun comes apart just as fast and easy as the original, the reassembly is a little more involved. Not a Swiss watch by
any means, but it tends to try your patience until you get a handle on it.

Luck!

Tuner

 

[Trebor]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the info.

It sounds like I should just buy the pistol and shoot it alot and not worry about any small parts breakage then, correct? I know the extractor is critical and MIM ones break easily, but do the MIM sears and other small parts hold up OK?

Eventually I'll customize the gun to personalize it to me to some extent, but since I have so little experience with 1911's, I figured I'd shoot it box stock for quite awhile first so I can figure out what changes to make. I don't even know if I prefer long trigger or short trigger or arched or flat MSH. (I'm 6'1" with long hands and fingers. Any thoughts on what trigger/MSH housings might work best?)

 

[1911Tuner]

re:

Trebor asked:

and MIM ones break easily, but do the MIM sears and other small parts hold up OK...

The sears and dissconnects in my older 1991s held up well before I changed'em. They were range guns and the parts breakage wasn't an issue. Can't say on my NRM because I didn't get more than about 12-1500
rounds on it before upgrading. In Kimber's early days, their pistols did
very well with MIM internals, but the recent examples seem to be giving more problems than average. Either a different (cheaper) vendor, or
cheaper materials...somethin's goin' on there. Hope they get it corrected
soon.

All the MIM parts in my WW2 Springfield held up through a grueling 5,000
round test...strut included. The next pistol may not do as well...so it's a crapshoot. The recent examples of strut breakage may be a fluke and it may be a trend. Not enough data to make a call on it yet, but I'll
pay attention and start asking around. I've got two local dealers who are
going to notify me if customers start bringin'em back with busted struts.

I'm about to believe that the ILS mainspring load has a lot to do with the
premature strut breakage. I have a new Springfield strut that I plan on
using in a beater with a standard mainspring to see how it holds.

Luck!

Tuner