col.lemat
Member
why not just reload and shoot it out?
Ball stuck, usual methods not working
- Thread starter Gambit88
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JohnM
Member
Hoppe's Bench Rest solvent will get that lead fouling out.
You sure don't want to heat up that cylinder high enough that it would melt it.
You sure don't want to heat up that cylinder high enough that it would melt it.
col.lemat
Member
Why not? I got a stand of buffalo in Airzona once and after 100 rounds of 45/70 the barrel on the Remmington got so hot that it would burn you. Actualy started to melt the pewter nose cap, so I switched to another rifle while that one cooled. Kept my skinners busy well into the night.
JohnM
Member
Great true story, but heating up a cylinder enough to get lead fouling to flow could get up to 800° or more.Even on a good modern heat treated steel cylinder that's adding stresses it doesn't need.
col.lemat
Member
I thought lead melted at about 300 degrees
JohnM
Member
Pure lead melts at about 600°F, most alloys like the various solders around 800°F, just what sort of alloy lead fouling in a BP gun would be is hard to say.
That Hoppe's Bench Rest is great stuff, handy as pockets on a shirt
That Hoppe's Bench Rest is great stuff, handy as pockets on a shirt
JohnM
Member
250° might be OK for cookies, but I don't think it would do much for lead fouling but make it harder and drier.
I did break free some epoxy once at 350 for 30 minutes
I did break free some epoxy once at 350 for 30 minutes
If you mean a ring of lead left after drilling out the centers of the ball, Just tap a small round pointed object like a ice pick or rod with end ground at angle between the cyl wall and lead to buckle one side. then pull them out.
(Don't gouge the cyl. wall)
Could also maybe use a souldering iron to melt through one side then pull the rest out.
(Don't gouge the cyl. wall)
Could also maybe use a souldering iron to melt through one side then pull the rest out.
Noz
Member
You still are faced with the stuck nipple. I'd ride on it til a conclusion and then treat with anti seize.
JohnM
Member
You got a good point there.
One of the very first things I would do to any cap and ball is pull the nipples and if worn replace them.
And run a chaser down the nipple threads, clean them up good and get some good never seize worked into the threads.
I like the stuff sold by Caterpillar Tractor, it has a high copper content.
One of the very first things I would do to any cap and ball is pull the nipples and if worn replace them.
And run a chaser down the nipple threads, clean them up good and get some good never seize worked into the threads.
I like the stuff sold by Caterpillar Tractor, it has a high copper content.
andrewstorm
member
p b blasters
works the best,spray into cylinders let set overnight,if that doesnt work for the nipples try an easy out tool of accordng size,.it will destroy the nipples but sounds like you need them by now any how.......
works the best,spray into cylinders let set overnight,if that doesnt work for the nipples try an easy out tool of accordng size,.it will destroy the nipples but sounds like you need them by now any how.......
To the rod doc, thanks I was thinking of doing something like that with a small screwdriver. After I get theead out ill fill the chambers with pb and if that does nothing ill have a gunsmith friend of mine remove them. I'm already trying to fix a barrel band I messed up so ill let a professional do his thing
Gambit
Gambit
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