ball vs stick powders
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Grumulkin
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I don't think you can classify them based on ball versus stick powder. Winchester 748 is said to have a lower flame temperature and is thus easier on barrels. I'd love to use it but it has never been the best powder accuracy wise those cartridges in which I've tried it.
Lil' Gun, on the other hand has a high flame temperature. It probably is OK for the 410 Shotgun for which it was made but I wouldn't use it for handgun cartridges.
What probably has more to do with throat erosion, is how overbore a cartridge is and how high the velocity is. More overbore and more velocity means faster wear. The throat will erode first and that will determine when a new barrel is needed.
Lil' Gun, on the other hand has a high flame temperature. It probably is OK for the 410 Shotgun for which it was made but I wouldn't use it for handgun cartridges.
What probably has more to do with throat erosion, is how overbore a cartridge is and how high the velocity is. More overbore and more velocity means faster wear. The throat will erode first and that will determine when a new barrel is needed.
Jim Watson
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Bruce Hodgdon said Ball powder was easier on RIFLE barrels. Been some effort to debunk him.
I have found extruded powder to be SLIGHTLY more accurate in 3 of four barrels good enough to tell a difference.
But Ball sure is easy to load, no need to weigh and trickle, no expensive digital dispenser. Just set the measure and roll them out.
I have found extruded powder to be SLIGHTLY more accurate in 3 of four barrels good enough to tell a difference.
But Ball sure is easy to load, no need to weigh and trickle, no expensive digital dispenser. Just set the measure and roll them out.
Ruger 15151
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Jim
What is your favorite powder/bullet/ loads in .223 / 5.56 and .308? Just curious
243winxb
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http://www.firearmsid.com/Feature Articles/McCord_gunpowder/
The addition of nitro may make for a hotter powder?? But reduce the amount of powder grains used, because of nitros higher energy?? Deterrents may make the difference?
Look at the MSDS of your powder. Some will also have Tin Dioxide, an additive to reduce copper fouling.
In 223 & 308, i would not worry about barrel life.
MSDS http://www.imrpowder.com/msds.html
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pert near
Member
The theory is that ball powder burns with a decreasing surface area (i.e. "cooler") while perforated extruded powder burns with an increasing surface area (i.e. "hotter"). It is easy to imagine a sphere burning reduces in surface while a cylinder with a hollow burns inside out & outside in with increasing area. It is also sometimes argued that the texture of the hot powder blown down the barrel can be abrasive. Again spheres seem to have less resistance than sticks peening the barrel surface. The temperature created by the actual powder compound is also a big part of this discussion. All & all these theories are fun for debate, but find the best load & not worry about barrel life, as the purpose of the rifle is to be accurate. A gain in barrel life of perhaps 5% by compromising on powder is insignificant in the overall "life" of a the rifle.
Just IMHO....
Just IMHO....
243winxb
Member
My statement above would seem to be wrong. When i compare H335 and IMR 3031 in 308. Both seem to use about the same amount of powder.
So i will go with this - In 223 & 308, i would not worry about barrel life.
http://www.ilrc.ucf.edu/powders/sample_detail.php?powder_id=164 Powder photos and info link.
Jim Watson
Member
Ruger 15151,
I have loaded most of my .308 with Varget. I could not tell a difference on target with IMR 4064 or Re 15 but Varget was readily available at the time so that is what I went with. I tried hard to like AA2520, it meters so well the scale is used only to set the measure and the trickler stays on the shelf. But it was not QUITE as accurate and I was shooting F Class to 1000 yards and needed all I could squeeze out.
Varget is good in the heavy bullet .223, too. I tried more powders trying to turn the smallbore into a Long Range rifle but none were clearly better.
The AR gets WW748, though; good metering and less demanding targets.
The leader in Ball powders here is my .22-250 which does very well with H414.
I have loaded most of my .308 with Varget. I could not tell a difference on target with IMR 4064 or Re 15 but Varget was readily available at the time so that is what I went with. I tried hard to like AA2520, it meters so well the scale is used only to set the measure and the trickler stays on the shelf. But it was not QUITE as accurate and I was shooting F Class to 1000 yards and needed all I could squeeze out.
Varget is good in the heavy bullet .223, too. I tried more powders trying to turn the smallbore into a Long Range rifle but none were clearly better.
The AR gets WW748, though; good metering and less demanding targets.
The leader in Ball powders here is my .22-250 which does very well with H414.
someguy2800
Member
What it comes down to for most people is that most ball powder meter much better than stick in a powder measure, and most stick powders are less temp sensitive and ignite more reliably at cold temps than most ball powders. There are numerous exceptions to this though. I weigh rifle powder with an electronic dispenser and I shoot from 0 to 100 degrees so stick powders are my choice in most cases. I also like stick powders because they are less messy and staticy.
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