Barrel change model 10?

[nater762]

How big a deal is it to change a pre-model 10 M&P barrel? Got a 5"...wanna go 2".

 

[Jim Watson]

Not a big deal if you have the several specialized tools and some experience.

Take cylinder and crane off gun.
Drive out barrel pin.
Clamp frame in receiver wrench.
Clamp barrel in barrel vise.
Unscrew.
Clamp new barrel in vise.
Screw in new barrel.
See if it turns in snug with the sight vertical.
If not, shave barrel shoulder until it does.
Install cylinder and crane.
Check cylinder gap.
Too tight?
Shave off end of barrel shank.
Too wide?
Take barrel and cylinder back off, shave shoulder to set it back a turn.
Reassemble, recheck, readjust gap.
Replace extractor rod and centerpin with snubby parts.

Phew.
And that is just the work I can think of offhand, there might be more to do.

 

[waidmann]

Jim alongwith a few other helped me explore this his recently. I you are going to hire the work/ buy parts, I think sell/buy is the solution. And you will have an original gun.

 

[Stophel]

Where are you gonna find a 2" M&P barrel????

 

[spanishjames]

I've heard of guys cutting their barrel down, then installing a new sight somehow. Seems like a whole lot of work to me though. I'd just use wanting a 2" revolver as an excuse to buy another gun.

 

[Hondo 60]

Finding a Pre-M10 2" barrel is gonna be the biggest issue.
(I'm not a gunsmith, so I don't know if more modern barrels will fit.)

Then do you have the tools necessary?

If it were me??? I'd have a good excuse to buy another gun.

 

[CajunBass]

Just sell the 5" and buy a 2". It will be a lot less expensive any way you look at it.

 

[StrawHat]

Two inch barrels are not hard to find. However, getting an ejector rod for a two inch barrel is the more pressing problem. The shorter barrel requires a shorter rod.

What's not to like about the 5" barrel? A great blend of balance and accuracy.

 

[Old Fuff]

First of all if you don't have the right blocks to support both the frame and barrel you will risk ruining both. Next you need different blocks for the 2" barrel. If the barrel needs to be fitted (likely) you will need a lathe. Then a new cylinder center rod and extractor rod. We won't go into the question of finding a new 2" barrel, but if you do find one expect it to be costly.

You can shorten the 5" barrel, but not below 3 inches, or you will lose the bottom lug. Then you will need to replace the front sight and have the barrel blued afterwards. There is a good chance the color won't match the rest of the gun, so you may end up rebluing the whole thing.

In short, you would be much better off selling the revolver you have, and put the money toward the one you want. Or keep what you have and leave it, "as is."

 

[springfield30-06]

How big a deal is it to change a pre-model 10 M&P barrel? Got a 5"...wanna go 2".

You never mentioned what your budget is, but I will have to echo many of the other posts... You will most likely be better off buying a 2" model 10.

You probably save money, time and headache whether you sell the 5" and use the $$ to buy a 2", trade or even just keep the 5" and get a 2".

Used model 10's are relatively inexpensive, and I've seen 2" versions pop up at my local gun shops every now and then...

 

[Jim K]

"Take barrel and cylinder back off, shave shoulder to set it back a turn."

Isn't there a bit of a problem with the front lock on an S&W? If you set the barrel back a turn, won't you have to work on the ejector rod and center pin? Or cut the front lug and the locking bolt? Rolling the barrel shoulder might be a better option.

Jim

 

[MCgunner]

I just paid a smith 30 bucks to do mine, but that was about 20 years ago.

 

[mmitch]

As you may have surmised, it's a BIG deal, fraught with ancillary challenges. Better to buy the 2" gun, outright.

Mike

 

[Brian Williams]

I am looking for a Pre-Model 10 with a 5 inch barrel, BUT it must have a round grip frame.
any chance of a picture?