Barrel gap repair on my 617?

[Jalopiejoe]

Has anyone returned their guns to S&W for repair even though it was within specs?
The B/C gap on mine is .008 which looks too wide and none of my other revolvers have a gap wider than .006!
S&W's tolerance is. 004 to .010.
Should I take a chance and return it?
They may say it's within tolerance and return it.
Or would someone just tell me that .008 is just fine and will work just fine?
Or maybe I'm just too picky!
I appreciate your comments, Thanks!

 

[edwardware]

They may say it's within tolerance and return it.

Not "may," "will."

And 0.008" is fine. If you want to alter it, price the work from S&W's custom shop and one or two revolver 'smiths.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Have you shot it yet?

I snugged up the gap on my Dan Wesson M22 from .008 to .001 and accuracy didnt improve.

It did stay a little cleaner, though. Lol.

 

[Bottom Gun]

If it's within tolerance, it should be fine. If the tolerance zone is indeed .004 to .010, then the nominal dimension is likely .007. In other words the dimension would be .007 +/- .003.
Your revolver measures .008 which is .001 away from being perfect with zero tolerance.
How does it shoot? If it shoots OK, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[mnrivrat]

I like mine to be no more than .006 and prefer .003 to .004 I really don't have a lot of justification for those numbers to explain them today, but they are stuck in my head from something long ago. The heart wants what the heart wants. If your preference is lower than .008 then pay to put it where you want. It will make you happier, and it is only money. Just make sure you have the work done by someone that does it right.

 

[chicharrones]

Like someone mentioned in the other thread, a little extra room in a rimfire revolver is not a bad thing.

Considering how rimfire rim thickness can differ from one manufacturer to the next, and dirtier than centerfire fouling will coat the front of the cylinder, you'll probably be happier for the extra .002" over .006" in actual use.

 

[mnrivrat]

Like someone mentioned in the other thread, a little extra room in a rimfire revolver is not a bad thing.

Considering how rimfire rim thickness can differ from one manufacturer to the next, and dirtier than centerfire fouling will coat the front of the cylinder, you'll probably be happier for the extra .002" over .006" in actual use.

Do you know of any studies done on this topic ? I personally have never encountered a cylinder binding due to fouling build up on the front of the cylinder. I would however be very interested in any study that addressed the issue. Particularly if the study included both center fire and rimfire data.

 

[chicharrones]

Do you know of any studies done on this topic ? I personally have never encountered a cylinder binding due to fouling build up on the front of the cylinder. I would however be very interested in any study that addressed the issue. Particularly if the study included both center fire and rimfire data.

No studies, just my own anecdotal experience with my rimfire revolvers. Double action and single action types.

 

[Pat Riot]

As I mentioned before I had a bad B/C gap on my model 63, .22LR.
The left side measured .015”
The right side measured .005”
I used quality feeler gauges to determine this at every chamber, just to be sure.
I called S&W, told them what I found and how I measured it.
They sent me a shipping label, I shipped it, they fixed it. 2 1/1 weeks later my revolver was returned.
It measured a consistent 0.005”

If the dimensions from one side to the other are off they will fix it. If within specs, they may not fix what they consider “not broken”. At least not on their dime.

Try shooting you gun with a variety of ammo.
.22’s are finicky about what they like sometimes. If accuracy is off it may not be the gun, but the ammo.

Example: my 63 likes; Aguila Velocitor, CCI Stinger, Remington Thunderbolt, CCI standard velocity, Federal Black Box
It doesn’t like; Remington Golden Bullet, Aguila Super Extra, LAX Super.

You may just need to experiment.

 

[Riomouse911]

Do you know of any studies done on this topic ? I personally have never encountered a cylinder binding due to fouling build up on the front of the cylinder. I would however be very interested in any study that addressed the issue. Particularly if the study included both center fire and rimfire data.

I had a Rossi Model 85 .38 2” revolver with a slightly crooked cylinder that made a tight .002 B/C gap on one side of the cylinder. It would bind by rubbing against the forcing cone as it heated up from shooting, usually within 25 rounds or so. (It wasn’t from fouling because it wasn’t shot enough to dirty up a lot.) It had to cool down to work right once it started rubbing.

I could see where a “too tight” B/C gap could be an issue from a combination of expansion and crud if fired more during a session than my Rossi was.

As for S&W, I have sent in three guns over the past three years; a 686+, a 66-1 and a 48-4. Last year was the worst for service, COVID restrictions really hit them hard. IMHO; if you send it there a) expect a six to ten month wait on non-warranty repairs... if they’ll even take it in. The 48-4 I sent in last year waited broken and unused from March to June before I could get a Repair Order and mail it in. It came back to me in October, 2020. And b) if it’s in spec it’ll come back untouched because they are still short staffed and have tons of guns waiting in queue that need attention.

Personally, if it shoots well adjusting a gun the width of a piece of notebook paper or so isn’t going to matter... and may just alter the cylinder position enough to negatively affect how it shoots. I’d leave it alone and spend my time shooting it .

Just an opinion, it’s not worth any more or less than any others .

Good luck and stay safe.

 

[Jalopiejoe]

Personally, if it shoots well adjusting a gun the width of a piece of notebook paper or so isn’t going to matter... and may just alter the cylinder position enough to negatively affect how it shoots. I’d leave it alone and spend my time shooting it .

Just an opinion, it’s not worth any more or less than any others .

Good luck and stay safe.

Well stated, thanks for the wait time information! I'm going to keep it and use it!

 

[__steve__]

I just sent my MOD 500 in last week, it actually has 0.004" to 0.010" of barrel/cylinder play, and 0.010" static. The forcing cone as well is eroded severely.

We'll see how it comes back, it will be on my tab of course

 

[sparkyv]

You using Lil'Gun, __steve__?

I just sent my MOD 500 in last week, The forcing cone as well is eroded severely.

 

[__steve__]

Only about 10 loads of 43.0 grain 275 gr barnes JHP's.

I think the combination of gap, shooting 300 gr and less loads, and my fondness towards max loads may be the factor.

 

[sparkyv]

Understood...spicy. I'm curious how the Mothership handles your repair.

Only about 10 loads of 43.0 grain 275 gr barnes JHP's.

I think the combination of gap, shooting 300 gr and less loads, and my fondness towards max loads may be the factor.

 

[SeanSw]

Sounds fine. I've never measured the gap on my 617, my only issue with it is sticky extraction. I bought a new Ruger LCR with a .12" gap which seemed too large. I called Ruger and got their factory specs, told them my new gun was out of spec, and they fixed it for me no questions asked.

 

[PapaG]

Gee, man. Shoot it and see how it does. I'll bet it will produce better groups than you expect. Quit worrying and enjoy one of Smith's best. I rue the day I traded mine (for a 77 Ruger .243 that has been fired ten times in the past seven years )

 

[OrangePwrx9]

You'll pay for their work. It won't be free or even cheap. Your gun will be tied up for a lengthy period.