Barrel link issue on WWII 1911?

[OcelotZ3]

Hi All,

I inherited a 1943 Remington Rand 1911 from my dad. He had a large collection of military weapons but he sold all of them off but this one. I suspect because it wasn't in pristine shape (someone had shaved the US Govt markings off of it sometime in the past). He never shot any of the guns he had so I have no idea of the history of this 45.

Anyway, the slide has always been a little "stiff", but after I lubricated it and put in a new spring it would cycle pretty well. But, at the range this last weekend, it eventually wouldn't cycle properly and the frame would hang up. An instructor thought it might be the disconnector.

When I got it home and took it apart & cleaned it, it didn't get any better. The slide would be fine without the barrel mounted, but as soon as I installed the barrel & slide stop it would be essentially locked up. I suspected the barrel link as it seemed a little worn. Nothing that caught my attention, but then again I'm new to this.

I swapped the barrel link with one from a new RIA and the RR now cycles just fine.

Does this sound reasonable, that a barrel link could cause cycling problems this bad, and that the link would possibly be the only major problem?

Any help/opinions are greatly appreciated!

 

[1911Tuner]

Sounds like the barrel had been long-linked at some point. Many people will do that in the mistaken belief that they're improving the gun by making it "lock up" tighter...but all it does is to place the link and its pin...and the hole that the pin goes through...under stresses that they was never meant to bear. The slidestp pin and the frame holes, likewise. It also alters the barrel linkdown and drop timing, sometimes to the point of compromising the function and/or causing damage.

The possible problems with changing the link to a shorter one is that the barrel may stop on the link when it drops. Do a quick test to see if that's what you have.

Pistol assembled normally, but with the slidestop arm hanging vertically...place the muzzle against the edge of a bench and push until it stops. Hold it there firmly, and see if the slidestop will swing freely. If it does...you're golden. If it binds...the barrel is stopping on the link.

 

[OcelotZ3]

Thanks for the help! That's a pretty simple way to check things out, always appreciated.

 

[1911Tuner]

That's a pretty simple way to check things out,

That's only half the story. All that tells you is whether the link is too short and stops the barrel instead of letting it hit the vertical impact surface. It also has to get the barrel out of the slide in time to keep the lugs from takin' a hit.

The sole function of the link is to get the barrel lugs out of vertical engagement with the slide's lug recesses. With that fresh in mind...

With the slide .250 inch out of battery, the barrel should be completely linked down and on the frame bed. There should be .015 inch of clearance between the top of the barrel and the underside of the first lug in the slide. This clearance shouldn't change by more than .003 inch with the pistol flipped upside down. If flipping the gun upside down closes up that clearance...the link is still too long.

The final check is to see if the barrel is hitting the frame bed before or at the same time that it hits the vertical impact surface...which isn't good if it does. It should stop on the VIS with a little clearance between the bottom of the barrel and the bed.
There doesn't have to be very much...but it should be there...and the barrel should finish going to bed AFTER it hits the VIS. This also determines that the lower barrel lug isn't impacting the VIS too low on the lug. You want it to hit high...close to the corner where lug meets the barrel.

Coat the lower part of the barrel and the rear face of the lower lug with layout fluid. A blue or black Sharpie Marker will do.

Wth the recoil system removed...barrel bushing in place...use a plastic mallet to whack the muzzle sharply...straight back. Repeat 3-4 times, and take the gun apart. Look to see if the bluing has been removed from the barre radius, or has signifigant bare spots. If it has...the barrel is titting the bed instead of hitting the VIS and falling to bed.

Look at the rear of the lug. The bluing should be marked high on the lug, but not on the tips of the feet.
If the heaviest removal is high on the lug, and lightly on the feet...it can be corrected pretty easily. You want it to hit high...between the area where the lug splits into two halves and the junction of the barrel and lug. The higher, the better...as long as it doesn't also remove bluing from the bottom of the barrel. Ideally...right at or just slightly below the fillet radius in the junction of lug and barrel.

Striking low on the lug eventually leads to separation of lug and barrel, and the same applies to the barrel hitting the bed before it hits the VIS. Depending on how low, or how soon before...separation can occur in as little as a thousand rounds...or it can take up to 5 thousand.

These quick checks only alert you to the fact that something is wrong.
Sometimes you can correct or adjust for it simply and quickly...and sometimes it requires the attentions of a smith who understands the 1911 pistol.

Good luck!