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Barrel questions

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I sincerely apologize for all these newbie questions I keep asking :eek:

As you've probably heard a million times, Lkwinni wants a Remington Model 700 in .308.

I have decided that I want a rifle for the sole purpose of nailing small targets at absurdly long distances. I wont be lugging it around the woods, so it can be as heavy as I want.

Now for the questions:

-Which of the 700 variants has the best stock barrel for this purpose?
-What is the difference between a stainless barrel and a 'blued' barrel?
-What is a fluted barrel?


Thanks in advance
 
Well I'm not a 700 guru, but I can answer the easy ones.

Stainless barrels are made out of Stainless steel (like kitchen knives) this makes them resistent to rust and corosive elements. Other barrels are made out of other types of steel alloys that can rust and require a coating to protect them.
Blueing is a type of controlled oxidation that gives steel a shiny blue/black color. It is very pretty(IMHO), but not quite as rust resistent as Stainless. Their are also several new high-tech coatings that do a VERY good job of protecting metal and come in all sorts of colors, but they cost $$ and have to be put on by a professional.

Simple awnser: Stainless gives you that white metal look and is good in wet conditions. Blued gives you a dark, glossy look and can be used in wet conditions but requires a little more care.

A Fluted barrel is generally a thicker barrel that has grooves carved down the length of the outside of the barrel.
These grooves do several things:
1. Make the barrel lighter than a heavy "Bull" barrel
2. Make the barrel more rigid and stronger = more accurate
3. Allow the barrel to cool off faster = more accurate
 
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and for the part fink didn't answer... go w/ a 700 vls. blued, laminated, not fluted. outstanding rifle for the price.
 
there isn't a direct synthetic version in new production that i am aware of. shouldn't be too awful hard to find an old production vs or vss though (vs = varminter synthetic, vss = varminter synthetic stainless).

synthetic stocks are not fungible, though. a mcmillan isn't an hs isn't a b&c, etc... if you are bent on a synthetic stock, be aware that good ones ain't cheap, and cheap ones ain't good - and in a precision application (such as a fat-barrelled rifle), you are far better off w/ a properly fit laminated or wood stock than a flexible plastic one that won't take bedding, and can't hold the rifle straight.
 
Fluting a barrel doesn't make it stronger or more rigid. A fluted barrel is, however, more rigid than a round barrel of the same weight. ie: if you take a 3lb barrel and have it fluted, to give a final weight of 2.5lbs, the result will be stiffer than a 2.5lb non-fluted barrel, but not as stiff as a 3lb non-fluted barrel. If weight isn't an issue, it's not worth it to spend more on a fluted barrel IMO.

Are you looking for something to have as a project to upgrade as your skills warrant, or do you want a top of the line rig now? What kind of budget are you looking at?

If you're not looking for something to upgrade, the 700P is a good choice. If money is no object, I'd look into having GA Precision build you a gun with a GAP or Surgeon action (both are improved versions of the 700 action with the Surgeon being the top of the line).

If you want something to improve as your skills improve, a lot of people recommend any reasonably priced 700 in .308. When you shoot out the barrel, you can get a match grade barrel and McMillan stock.

If you're on more of a budget you could look at a savage 12 or 10.
 
I did notice you said you're interested in a Rem 700, but for your stated purpose, have you also looked into Savage?

Do a search for Savage 10fp. From what I hear, they're super accurate, and quite a bit less $ than the Remington. Nothing against the Rem 700 though.
 
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