Bead Blasting Stainless Steel

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mike101

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I'm thinking about having a stainless Ruger bead blasted.

I'm wondering if it makes it any more difficult to clean the gun. Does it make the stainless steel more impervious to scratches? Does anyone know if Magnaport's Velvet Hone finish is any different than regular bead-blasting? What are the advantages of bead blasting, if any, other than looks? :confused:
 
i read an article on heat dissipation. i believe it was on a site called snipercountry.

aparently, according to the writer, bead blasted barrels stay cooler than fluted.
 
A while ago I had a Stls 1911 bead blasted to a medium finish. It is a little harder to clean as the surface is not 'glassy' like the standard stainless finish. As for scratches, they are more visable and you can't buff them out. All in all, it's still a pretty rugged finish. I say go for it, It sure looks cool.
 
It looks great and if it does get scratched, it's a cheap(er) fix than a high polish or a reblueing.

As for cleaning, it's a little tougher since gunk and crud settle in finish. The solution is simply a little additional soaking time with your preferred bore solvent before applying the toothbrush. No biggie.

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That Smith is beautiful. I saw the picture in the other thread. It looks great. Thanks for the photo.
 
I bead blasted my GP100 and my SP101, it does take a little more effort to clean the soot off but not enough difference to matter.

After I bead blasted them I polished the cylinder flutes.

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Sisco,

Those looks great. You should have removed the warning first, then it'd look super clean.

Steve
 
Those looks great. You should have removed the warning first, then it'd look super clean.

Agreed! But that's a little beyond my kitchen table gunsmithing skills.
 
Does anyone know if Magnaport's Velvet Hone finish is any different than regular bead-blasting?

The velvet hone finish is usually very good. It's done with glass beads rather than ordinary abrasives, and results in a slightly softer, warmer look. I've never seen a difference in the effort required to clean a bead-blasted gun, but can assure you they don't show scratches half so readily.
 
I used glass beads on the Rugers. There are different grit sizes; I used a cabinet at work, not sure what size was in it.
 
@ Sisco

whats the shinier stripe near the front of the barrel, and it looks like on the cynlinder as well? did you tape that part off or something, thus not bead blast it?


i definitely like the look, any other info or resources on how you can do this, or have it done etc? thanks much, i know nothing about this :eek:
 
I have one of the early model 1991A1 SS Colt Government Models in .45acp (CV00xxx). These have what appears to be a bead blasted finish with no shiney or smooth surfaces. It is somewhat more difficult to clean the external surfaces, especially the slide. Finger prints in particular really stand out during a range session but I prefer this finish over the shiney SS models. :)


:evil:
 
whats the shinier stripe near the front of the barrel, and it looks like on the cynlinder as well? did you tape that part off or something, thus not bead blast it?

Before I blasted it I polished the ends of the barrels then put a piece of pinstriping tape around the polished area, leaving the stripe effect. After blasting I used a Dremel tool to polish the cylinder flutes. Anything I did not want blasted I covered with masking tape or Silly Putty. Used the Silly Putty to seal both ends of the cylinder and the slot the trigger goes through. Used a lead bullet to plug the muzzle end of the barrel. After blasting the trigger group got a good flush with brake cleaner then re-lubed.

I first tried a flame effect but I didn't come out as good as I hoped so I re-did it.
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Still some soot on the frame from shooting when this pic was taken and there's a light turn ring on this SBH but still looks pretty good.

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I've had a couple of guns done by Mag-na-port. Some of the best work in the country done up there. Great family run operation. They are one of my two favorite places to get guns worked on. The other is SSK Industries.

Steve
 
Question for Sisco

Sisco, I was wondering if you could tell me how you polished the cylinder flutes on your SP101? I'm going to be purchasing the SP101 3" and will be sending it to Gemini Customs for bead blasting, hammer bob, action job, and to have their front sight installed, but I really like the look of the highly polished cylinder flutes. Is this something I can do easily with a dremel and felt tip or some similar process? I'll have a bit of money tied up in this when I'm done so I don't want to mess it up.

Any guidance you can give would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks and what a beatiful couple of revolvers you have!

Gideon
 
The one suggestion that can make is to make sure your beads are used specifically for stainless steel .If you use them for chrome moly steel you run the risk of embedding chrome moly steel into your stainless steel and cause rusting problems. For a more gray color you can use sand as your blast medium.
 
Gideon
Dremel and a felt tip is all it takes! That and some patience, go slow and careful. I used Flitz polish but any good metal polish would work.
 
Thanks for the input Sisco! Should I wait and do it after I have the gun bead blasted by Gemini or should I do it first and ask them to protect the flutes when they bead blast the rest of the gun? Seems the second way that if I messed up polishing the flutes I could just tell them to bead blast over my job? What do you think?

Again, thanks for taking the time to clue me in. I really do like how that looks!

God Bless
Gideon
 
Sorry Sisco but another question

You seem to know alot about refinishing guns. Do you know if an S&W 637 Airweight J frame can be refinished? I.e., bead blasted? I have one and thought I could practice doing the flutes on that cylinder as the cylinder appears to be stainless, but the frame is some lightweight alloy and I would doubt whether-or-not that could really be refinished. Seems to be some lightweight coating on it that has scratched in a few places.

Anyway, thanks and if anyone else has any customized SP101's I'd love to see pictures of them!

God Bless
Gideon
 
I'm no expert, didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn! I had seen somewhere,this forum or another, I can't remember, the basics of bead blasting. Since I have access to a blasting cabinet (glass beads) at work I took a chance with my kitchen table gunsmithing skills and gave it a try.
I can't tell you about S&W's, never had one apart. I've always been told not to mess with the lockwork in a Smith unless you're very familiar with them. This may or may not be true.

As far as polishing the flutes before sending it off, that might be a good idea. I let the dremel slip once and put a line across the cylinder and it had to go back into the cabinet to cover it up. You might want to speak with the folks at Gemini and see what they think.
 
Hey Mike101,
Be careful not to make it look to good after all the custom work.
You won't want to shoot it once it's done.... :neener:

flamethrower6.jpg


Jeff (GUNKWAZY)
 
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