bedding
- Thread starter 308hound
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renegade-rick
Member
- Joined
- May 22, 2011
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- 14
I have probably bedded over 75 rifles and now I only use Marine-Tex. Check out my work on Gunbroker auction # 231363482 check out my website www.cedarridgetactical.com
dho3
Member
I have not bedded 75 rifles, but quite a few. I have used it all. Personally, I cannot stand Marine-Tex, not because it does not yield an excellent bedding surface, because it does. But, because I am a perfectionist and messy by nature and when bedding invariably I must make an adjustment and the next I know is white bedding material is everywhere. They do make a gray, but never tried it. The first rifle I ever bedded came out great, but I used MT and it was a mess before I went through a lengthy process to clean it.
BADUNAME37
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- Joined
- Aug 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,434
I have bedded three rifles in my life -- all about 20 years ago. The bedding was a dark gray after curing and I believe the release agent was blue.I distinctly remember peeling off very thin layers of blue release agent after the bedding cured.
I believe I could still do it again. I have a Dremel tool that I used to carve out areas inside the wood stock where the bedding is installed. I remember making sure the area all around the recoil lug of the barrel/action bottom was well-reinforced!
I think, if I did it again I would go with pillar bedding next time. Not that any of my rifles turned out bad, on the contrary - each one, with worked up loads, shoots about 1/2" groups at 200 yards off a sturdy bench. I cannot complain about that!
Each of them have free-floating barrels with at least 5/32" clearance between the barrel - forward of the chamber - and forend of the stock. Making the barrel free-floating is also a rather easy task, just - it just takes a bit of time to make sure you don't take too much wood off at once and to make sure nothing slips, possibly damaging a perfectly-good stock!
I think the most important part is preparing everything ahead of time (degreasing, removing oil, etc) and following all directions! I always find it best to read instructions several times before I even begin so as to familiarize myself with the process of what I am about to do! With the Internet (which I didn't have twenty years ago when I did those three) you can find all kinds of information and photos to make the job go easier and as expected!
I believe I could still do it again. I have a Dremel tool that I used to carve out areas inside the wood stock where the bedding is installed. I remember making sure the area all around the recoil lug of the barrel/action bottom was well-reinforced!
I think, if I did it again I would go with pillar bedding next time. Not that any of my rifles turned out bad, on the contrary - each one, with worked up loads, shoots about 1/2" groups at 200 yards off a sturdy bench. I cannot complain about that!
Each of them have free-floating barrels with at least 5/32" clearance between the barrel - forward of the chamber - and forend of the stock. Making the barrel free-floating is also a rather easy task, just - it just takes a bit of time to make sure you don't take too much wood off at once and to make sure nothing slips, possibly damaging a perfectly-good stock!
I think the most important part is preparing everything ahead of time (degreasing, removing oil, etc) and following all directions! I always find it best to read instructions several times before I even begin so as to familiarize myself with the process of what I am about to do! With the Internet (which I didn't have twenty years ago when I did those three) you can find all kinds of information and photos to make the job go easier and as expected!
Liberty1776
Member
I know this wasn't one of your original choices, but I suggest and only use Brownell's Acra-glass gel.
45EER
Member
Use what the US ARMY uses
Bisonite used by Military builders 4 Snipers & the Rifles used by AMTU.
I have used all types of epoxies However Bisonite is 7 to 1 with
a powdered thickiner to use in those special areas. Im not sure who sells
it now just google it or look at www.championchoice.com
If you want the best longest lasting tightest most used by the Pros.
If you were not trained my a Military Builder I can understand why
you never heard of Bisonite. Want a 6 Mos to almost a year then
gone is that ping & the X Ring is just a day dream use Epoxies.
Don't take me wrong I like the many types & uses for Epoxy. It
was not made for M14s/M21s , M24s , M40s & some that have no
names. Take a PSS bed it with Bisonite, & you will be surprized at your
Groups & cold shot repeat. That makes a real differance when
others are shooting back at you in the real World.
Mike
Bisonite used by Military builders 4 Snipers & the Rifles used by AMTU.
I have used all types of epoxies However Bisonite is 7 to 1 with
a powdered thickiner to use in those special areas. Im not sure who sells
it now just google it or look at www.championchoice.com
If you want the best longest lasting tightest most used by the Pros.
If you were not trained my a Military Builder I can understand why
you never heard of Bisonite. Want a 6 Mos to almost a year then
gone is that ping & the X Ring is just a day dream use Epoxies.
Don't take me wrong I like the many types & uses for Epoxy. It
was not made for M14s/M21s , M24s , M40s & some that have no
names. Take a PSS bed it with Bisonite, & you will be surprized at your
Groups & cold shot repeat. That makes a real differance when
others are shooting back at you in the real World.
Mike
Last edited:
Sunray
Member
Hi. For your first rifle, buy an Acraglas kit and follow the directions on the box.
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