Beginner Bow.....

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Just what the title says. I want some input on a good choice for a biginner bow. It will be used for mainly target practice in the back yard or local indoor range. I have a 25 3/4" draw length and would like to keep it around 40-60# draw weight with reasonable let off. Lastly I would like to keep it less than $200 as it will just be a hobby piece and maybe given to my kid if she shows interest. Even though its a "youth" I've been looking at the model in the link below because it could be adjusted to fit me. Anyone have any hands on experience with this bow or suggestions for a better setup?

http://www.amazon.com/Barnett-Vortex-45-Pounds-Youth-Archery/dp/B003RXOOQI/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I22E70OGX3ATRJ&colid=3E2U5WY32AGAG
 
Bear makes a model called the Apprentice. The RTH or ready to hunt package comes with a sight, rest, peep, and d-loop. Nice little bow that can be adjusted from 20#-50# and from 17" to 28.5" draw length. Price $279

Mission makes one called the Menace great bow for the money. Mission is a division of Mathews. This bow has the adjustment ability like the bear. Price $299 stripped. So figure another $150 minimum for sights, rest ect.

I have seen both bows in hunting situations and both preformed extreamly well. I watched one young man with the Mission have a pass through on a whitetail deer at 15 yards. Draw length of 25" shooting a G5 monotech broadhead and 38# draw weight.

I however no of nothing under $200 with nearly as good of quality as these two bows.
 
I agree with JTW, check Archerytalk. The guys over there will be more than happy to help you get exactly what you need. There is a good chance that one of them might actually HAVE what you need and would be willing to work out a deal.

Your local pro-shop might be a good place to look as well. Lots of times, they have used stuff for cheap.

My suggestion would be (if you can) to increase what you're willing to pay and stay away from the "bow in a box" packages. They won't hold up as well as something a little more expensive and you most likely won't be able to fix anything that might go wrong with it (i.e. string, cam, etc.).

Hope this helps. Good luck. You might just fall in love with it. I did.
 
Why not try a recurve? Personally I think there's no better way to get started. It's very forgiving, there are no modifications required for different draw lengths, and are extremely affordable.
 
Why not try a recurve? Personally I think there's no better way to get started. It's very forgiving, there are no modifications required for different draw lengths, and are extremely affordable.

Agreed. You might even forgo the whole compound thing altogether. Recurves are fun.

Jason
 
Well I ended up getting a Parker Sidekick XP off of craigslist. I met the guy locally and got a good deal. I paid $200 for the bow, sight, WB rest, quiver, Plano hard case, release aid, and arrows. Its adjustable from 18-28" length (no bow press) and 30-40 pounds. I have it set up at 25"@38lbs. It is VERY accurate and I am in the process of finding arrows it likes best (length, weight, tip, etc.). I'm in about $350 so far for everything including a target. Now in response to you guys suggestions I am looking at a PSE Razorback 60 or 62"@25lbs recurve. Got a local shop that will let me test it and if I like it i'll be looking at $119 plus tax. I fear that I am getting into archery as much as shooting. Its just plain FUN!!! The only drawback is I have not shot alot because it is very hot here in the St. Louis area!!! Thanks for all the responses.
 
spec ops grunt - the longer the limbs on a traditional bow (either long or recurve) the smoother the draw and throw is. The shorter the limbs, the faster the weight stacks on you. Older used recurves can be found for 1-150 that are pretty good quality. New ones are generally overpriced (the msrp on a kodiak magnum is as much as a low - mid end compound).

Compound bows have a definite stop for pull length. That helps with consistancy. Traditional bows do not, so your pull length can be of slightly differing lengths per shot if you don't lock your bow support arm. This will increase your chance of some real arm slap as you shoot. Some people say this is improper technique, but take a look at videos and old pics of the olympic recurve shooters (locked elbows, every one of em).
 
Some people say this is improper technique, but take a look at videos and old pics of the olympic recurve shooters (locked elbows, every one of em).

I bowhunt with mine, and definitely take a whole different approach to mechanics than olympic shooters. At least in terms of stance. Elbow slightly bent, like you mention, and I don't hold my bow perfectly vertically like they do. I cant it a little toward my drawing arm. To deal with draw length, I just try to keep the same amount of bend in my arm every time, and draw to an index point every time. For me, I put the tip of my middle finger on my drawing hand to the corner of my mouth for every draw.

New ones are generally overpriced (the msrp on a kodiak magnum is as much as a low - mid end compound).

Holy wow are you right! I just looked at the retail of a Martin Hunter, which is what I shoot... Well, I bought it new for $300-ish about seven or eight years ago, they are around $550 now. Wow. I guess guns aren't the only thing that went up.

Jason
 
jason - instinctive shooters cant the bow. Can't do that with sights as it messes with lining them up. Even drwing to the same place, there will be minute differences every draw. The lock avoids that... I'm not good enough to see a difference though.
 
jason - instinctive shooters cant the bow. Can't do that with sights as it messes with lining them up. Even drwing to the same place, there will be minute differences every draw. The lock avoids that... I'm not good enough to see a difference though.

Yeah, I definitely don't use sights.

Jason
 
You'll be happy with that Sidekick. The good thing about archery is that if you have some room in your backyard, and weather permits, you can shoot all you want. There aren't too many people that can simply step out back and shoot their guns. Be careful though, it can be VERY addictive.
 
WayBeau said:
Be careful though, it can be VERY addictive.

I don't think that is too much of a problem. :D

Yeah, I know. I've been hooked pretty deep into archery.

ThePunisher'sArmory, Congrats on your new bow! Parker is a good brand, and I shoot a Parker Legend XP myself. Have fun!
 
If you want a cheap bow that is nice, you could get a older bow like a vintage one. They can be bought a $50. They are wood and are loud but they are good starting out bows. My first bow I still have is a 80's Martin Archery Warthog. It is nice loud and is POWERFUL. Getting a new to me bow soon, but try it.
 
Whatever bow you get, take it to an archery shop with a range and get them to help you sight it in. Otherwise, you will be trying to learn to shoot AND learning to sight...Learn to shoot first, then learn how to maintain your bow. a good archery shop will get you set up in an hour to hit quarters at 25 yards! (I had to learn this the hard way...)
 
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