Beginner Loader – please critique my shopping list

[NoirFan]

Appreciate all the responses everyone, you guys have saved me a good amount of money and hassle. I'm going to go with the press and individual accessories like the RCBS 505 instead of one of the kits.

I will also stay away from Unique. I had picked it because read that's it's a good do-it-all revolver powder. I'd appreciate a suggestions for powder good for midlevel loads in both .38 and .357 (eventually).

I may have missed the reasoning for loading 12 gauge. But if you aren't loading for competition and shooting a lot, save yourself time and money and buy them. The cost to reload shotgun vs buying makes the labor fruitless IMHO. YMMV.
What .308 you loading for? How many rounds a month?
Think of more later...lol

Loading for the 12 gauge is just an idea I had, since I like the idea of being able to reload every caliber I have in house. It's not really a necessity and it's the lowest-priority item on the list.
I would be loading .308 for an M1A Scout. I know there's a lot more complexity to loading rifle rounds - especially for gas guns - so I'm holding off on that until I get good at loading pistol first.

The Kempf Gunshop kit has the Auto Disk instead of the Auto Drum - the Auto Disk is a disaster, the Auto Drum a much better tool, comparatively. The Kempf page has an option to upgrade to the Auto drum though, so if you go with either kit, do NOT get the Auto Disk. The Auto Drum isn't good compared to the RCBS or the Hornady tools, but it's far and away better than the Auto Disk

Thanks for letting me know, I thought they were just marketing names for the same thing.

 

[horsey300]

Appreciate all the responses everyone, you guys have saved me a good amount of money and hassle. I'm going to go with the press and individual accessories like the RCBS 505 instead of one of the kits.

I will also stay away from Unique. I had picked it because read that's it's a good do-it-all revolver powder. I'd appreciate a suggestions for powder good for midlevel loads in both .38 and .357 (eventually).


Loading for the 12 gauge is just an idea I had, since I like the idea of being able to reload every caliber I have in house. It's not really a necessity and it's the lowest-priority item on the list.
I would be loading .308 for an M1A Scout. I know there's a lot more complexity to loading rifle rounds - especially for gas guns - so I'm holding off on that until I get good at loading pistol first.


Thanks for letting me know, I thought they were just marketing names for the same thing.

I don't know about complex. Full length size (for autoloader), decap, trim (when needed), clean, prime, drop powder, seat bullet no more than Mag length. Pretty simple....then again, I don't load handgun so maybe it IS more complex....

 

[splattergun]

Down the road, if you ever get around to loading 12 ga, remember that it may just be a labor of love. If you just want cheap skeet ammo, you'd do better at Walmart. But you can tune the loads to pattern best in our shotgun. My hunting loads cost a few cents less per round than factory, but perform better.

 

[Dudedog]

The Lee factory crimp die is a like/hate thing. Some people like it some don't There are people who hate it. I happen to like it. I would say go ahead and spend the few extra $ for the 4 die set with it. You don't have to use it. You can also remove the size ring in the bottom if you decide you hate it, and just use it as a seperate crimp die.
I have a GEM20 scale (super accurate) small pan and a Frankford DS750.(and a RCBS 5-0-5) I use the DS750 most of the time.
One thing, Unique shoots well but does not meter super swift. If you are after a Unique spped powder I would suggest taking a look at Universal.
Go with the Lyman manual. 50 is the latest but does not have a lot more new data than 49 and I have seen 49 on sale places cheap.
You need a bullet puller. The RCBS one has a lifetime guarantee in case it breaks.
I am really happy with my Lee equipment.
I like to deprime my brass then clean it and prime with the Lee hand prime tool. I can watch football (etc) and prime cases. One less thing to worry about if they are already primed.

 

[kingmt]

Everything but how to spell A LOT.

Well I wasn't trying to spell "A LOT" I'm not sure what it means in all caps like that but "a lot" would mean a group of things like a pallet of ammo cans could be sold in a lot.

Instead I was using a slang term that is common. However it isn't a real word so it doesn't have a correct spelling. I try not to use this word myself rather I try to say "a bunch" instead. However like said above it was the punchline to a joke. Which sure is seeming a lot less funny now.

If you want to correct my spelling tho just keep following me & I'm sure I'll give you all kinds of opportunity.
______________________
Back to the OP.

I'm glad you think you figured it out. I believe that thought will change over time.

Rifle is no harder then revolver. It's actually one less die but about the same amount of work. Only thing I can think of worse is it is more likely that you'll stick a case in bottle neck. I have only heard of one person in my life that has stuck a straight walled case. Maybe that stuff just isn't talked about.

You will reduce your ammo cost faster if you shoot the rifle much & reload for it. Dies shell(holder I assume for the LCT) are cheap if buying Lee.

Lee Precision Carbide 3-Die Set .357 Magnum 90511 29.99

Lee Precision RGB 2-Die Set .308 Winchester 90879 18.99
&
LEE PRECISION SHELL HOLDER R2 $4.80
&
LEE CASE LENGTH GAUGE & SHELL HOLDER .308 WINCHESTER $5.99



For rifle there used to be a deluxe set that I'd suggest for almost the same money but ether links were crossed or something. I didn't look too hard.

Out of the things you know you want/need if you order everything together will save you shipping cost.

I can understand if the cost of ordering powder, primers, & bullets seem out of reach but the reduction in cost is great. So I'd start saving for one bulk order at a time if you have to. Powder or primers is probably the greatest difference from buying locally. Of course that will be different depending on where you live. I can't get bullets in plated, fmj, or lead. Hornady JHP is the cheapest bullet for my handguns I can get & Hornady V-Max is the cheapest I can get for my rifle locally. V-Max is what i prefer for my rifle & those are cheaper at Walmart then ordering them but everything else gets mail ordered.

 

[NoirFan]

I don't know about complex. Full length size (for autoloader), decap, trim (when needed), clean, prime, drop powder, seat bullet no more than Mag length. Pretty simple....then again, I don't load handgun so maybe it IS more complex....

Maybe complex is the wrong word.. maybe I meant loading for rifle seems more exacting, with less margin for error. I got that basic idea from reading this old post:
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/reloading-for-the-m1a-why-the-warning.482015/

Anyway, .308 is for the future. I'm starting out with the trusty 38.

 

[kingmt]

OK
I guess the matter is you can get by with being a little more sloppy in die setup with 38 special. Although you have to watch those fast powders. I think you'd be more likely to make a mistake in powder charge loading for revolver. Slow powders that almost full the case will keep you from blowing up a gun from overcharging tho.

Ether way just pay attention to detail. Good luck & welcome to reloading.

 

[1911WB]

You have received a lot of great advice here, so I won't presume to repeat it. However, I will say that I like to use Lee or RCBS carbide die sets for pistol caliber reloading. Something I would emphasize is to isolate yourself from distractions (radio/TV; phones; wife &children; dogs/cats; etc.).

 

[the count]

The equipment if only half the story. If at all possible take a NRA metallic reloading course! Going it alone can be done but
I really can't advise it.

 

[Varminterror]

Maybe complex is the wrong word.. maybe I meant loading for rifle seems more exacting, with less margin for error.

Different firearm types have their different specific critical attributes, but frankly, loading for handguns should be just as exacting as loading for rifles, and vise versa. Guys can be sloppy in either rifles or handguns too, if their standards are low.

It's just a common trend for folks to not have high expectations for their handguns, so they don't value precision reloading for them. But EVERYONE expects to get sub-MOA with their rifle hand loads, so they put the effort in.

Loading for gas guns is not as complicated as that post, or the text included, might imply. It has its nuances, but it's not difficult.

 

[mdi]

Youtube might be helpful, but to a new reloader how is he to know if what he sees is real reloading practice or Bubba's BS? There is no "rating system" for youtube posts, and I've seen too many videos that would lead a new reloader into trouble. Anyone remember the video of the jerk drinking beer while reloading? Maybe the video was in jest, tongue in cheek, but someone may have believed it.

The only tool I've used that I can say is worthless is the Lee FCD for handguns. I do know how th use dies, and I even reread the instructions. But, being a lifelong machinist/mechanic I can see how it works and what it does. My experience had told/taught me that the FCD is detrimental to learning how to reload without problems...

Not a Lee hater either as I started with Lee tools and still have 10 Lee die sets I use often along with various Lee tools and my RCBS dies and Lyman equipment.

 

[1stmarine]

I only saw a couple of videos from this guy and have my own ways to deal with things but I think this channel would be very valuable for the beginner
specially because of the quality close up work he does with the camera.
Remember as you evolve you will find several alternatives for doing the same thing,
some you will figure out and some you will replicate but the key is to understand the why and not just the how. And how to always be safe.

https://www.youtube.com/user/ammosmith

 

[Axis II]

Being in the same boat you were about 2yrs ago here is my take.

I was going to purchase a kit but was talked out of it and went with this below because its way better than half the junk that comes with the kit-(trust me I bought half of it and pitched it)

Lee classic turret-buy alone.
Lee classic turret 4 hole turret head for your other caliber=308
Lee carbide dies 357-you can buy the dies that will do both calibers. I like lee because they come with a shell holder other dies you have to buy a shell holder separate.
Lyman micro touch scale-Love mine, very simple to setup and use and doesn't take a lot of space.
lee auto drum
lee safety prime for the press.
lyman manual, lee manual.
loading block
ditch midway for powder and primers as they hammer you with stupid hazmat fees. Cabelas sells S&B primers that will work just fine for the handgun rounds and they are about $10 cheaper per 1k. gander and cabelas sell 1lbs of powder and its cheaper than buying online to start.
lyman ez trim for 308-cheap and easy.
harbor freight tumbler and media
harbor freight calipers
cabelas has a very good price for plastic ammo boxes or ask your local range to dumpster dive for factory boxes.
label maker or duct tape with marker to write info on boxes.
imperial sizing wax for 308.
lee perfect powder measure for the rifle-I cant get rifle to meter for crap on the auto drum.

Im going to tell you this and its not to degrade anyone on here or other forums. I don't have a lot of money and I had guys online and friends telling me oh I buy nothing but rcbs, lyman, etc. well I cant afford a $80 set of dies that will do the same thing a $30 lee will do within reason and the same goes for presses and scales. everything I listed has done me very well for the last 2 years loading 223-9mm-44mag. I seen what other guys had with fancy scales that throw powder for you, high dollar presses, dies, etc. I researched a lot of stuff before buying to make sure it would work for my needs and its all worked very well. some will tell you buy a rcbs chargemaster, rcbs turret instead of lee that lee is junk but its not the case. I haven't had that issue with guys telling me this that much on here but 1.5years of reading on this stuff ive seen it.

 

[thomas15]

cabelas has a very good price for plastic ammo boxes or ask your local range to dumpster dive for factory boxes.

Every time I'm in Cabelas I pick up a few of those boxes. I have more boxes than I will ever need. Also, both Harbor Freight and WalMart sells small plastic bulk ammo boxes like the old metal 30 cal military ones for about $5.00. I have a lot of those also.