Beginner to reloading advice

[FROGO207]

Seating and crimping in one step is the way I roll. As long as all the cases are close to the same length it works well. I also do things in a batch method with 60 round loading blocks. I charge all the cases and inspect them for equal fill with a flashlight before seating the bullets. This will help with identifying under and overcharges helping to keep you safe. Oh yeah welcome to the madness of metallic reloading.

 

[Toprudder]

Seating and crimping in one step is the way I roll. As long as all the cases are close to the same length it works well. I also do things in a batch method with 60 round loading blocks. I charge all the cases and inspect them for equal fill with a flashlight before seating the bullets. This will help with identifying under and overcharges helping to keep you safe. Oh yeah welcome to the madness of metallic reloading.

^^^^ Excellent advice!

Crimping will go much better if all cases are the same length. Find the shortest and trim them all the same. Check for length, and trim if necessary, after sizing.

For 357mag, I now use the Lee collet crimp die (not the FCD). Since it crimps using a collet, it does not depend as much on the cases being the same length. The FCD is not bad, but I just prefer the collet crimper.

I think it is cool having the reloading equipment from a relative that has passed. I would like to think that when I am gone, someone I know would end up with my equipment and keep using it.

 

[thomas15]

.......snip.....
I would like to think that when I am gone, someone I know would end up with my equipment and keep using it.

I'm taking my bench with me. I might leave some once fired brass though. LOL!

Snazz, I don't think anyone has pointed it out yet but the Ideal 55 powder measure you have is now made by Lyman (still called the 55).

 

[Walkalong]

I'm curious as to why your case length changed so much.

The case on the left is a .44 Spl case to show the crimp groove on the bullet, while the case on the right is a seated and crimped bullet in a .44 Mag case. It is just to show the crimp groove for a better visual of what is going on.

Mine did not, however I didn't have a crimp groove on the Magnus bullets. I just pressed them to length, then crimped to what the lee instructions said

I would have to see the bullet, but I can't imagine a JHP bullet intended for .38/.357 that doesn't have a cannelure. I should have used a pic with a jacketed bullet instead of a lead one.

 

[snazz93]

I didn't realize the one on the left was a special! I feel better now, I thought it was a picture of before and after crimp haha. And is the goove still in the bullet on a jacketed bullet, just under the jacket? Becaise they did take a nice crimp, just looks different I guess not actually seeing the physical groove

 

[Walkalong]

I'll post a pic of a JHP with the case roll crimped into the cannelure when I get home.

 

[snazz93]

Thanks! And I cant thank everyone enough for answering my questions, and giving advice. Ive only loaded 18 simple rounds, and already I'm beginning to see just how addicting this hobby can be! I'm either gunna have to start loading for some friends or put an "ammo addition" on my house lol

 

[Walkalong]

I'll post a pic of a JHP with the case roll crimped into the cannelure when I get home.

.357 Mag. Case roll crimped into the cannelure.

 

[WestKentucky]

put an "ammo addition" on my house

I think we have all had that idea at one point. My addition is under my house. Crawl space is huge since I live on a steep hillside, so it got dug out to a 12x12 area with 7 ft of vertical clearance, concrete block laid as a retaining wall, and a 3” slab poured. There’s a 4x5 door on it too.

 

[Toprudder]

I think we have all had that idea at one point. My addition is under my house. Crawl space is huge since I live on a steep hillside, so it got dug out to a 12x12 area with 7 ft of vertical clearance, concrete block laid as a retaining wall, and a 3” slab poured. There’s a 4x5 door on it too.

My reloading room is a 12x20 shed, which I wired and insulated myself.

Yes, it is an addiction.

 

[rfwobbly]

Question 1. I have a few manuals that's Ive read thoroughly, but I'm on the edge of what I should do. With everything I have, the manuals all call for somewhere around 15 gr. Powder. Would it hurt to start a tad lower because I'm just starting? With all my research Ive learned 2400 is a great mag powder, but works best under hot loads. Would I be better buying lighter bullets and different powder to start?

► All powder burns best near Max Load. That is the nature of the granulated fuel we call powder. But, that doesn't mean the bullet is it's most accurate at that pressure. DO NOT confuse those 2 ideas. Decide whether you are out to break your wrist, or want to hit what you aim at. Those are 2 completely separate investigations.

► When a book gives one load, then that's Max Load. That is typically reduced by 10% to find the Starting Load. So for a 15gr Max, your Starting would be 13.5gr. Then divide the range of 1.5gr by 5 to get the increments for your loads. So your suggested incremental loads might be 13.5, 13.8, 14.1, 14.4gr, etc.

► If you're going to buy anything, then the place to start is with a modern reloading manual. Since about year 2000, labs have used more sensitive computers and digital pressure gauges to measure chamber pressures. Since their introduction, some books had to be completely rewritten. For your own safety, you want to work with this new information. You can get new info from the powder maker's web site, but a nice manual is hard to beat. I would suggest the Lyman #50 in hardback.

► You're also going to need to keep a reloading notebook of your own loads and the results. One load with each powder-bullet combo is going to deliver excellent results. You're going to want to repeat that load in the future.

Question 2. Do you find it easier using the primer arm on a single stage press, or hand priming?

That changes year to year as new products come out. As in baking a cake... there are many ways to accomplish some tasks. It's all up to what you like and what suits your loading process.

Question 3. Because the 3 die set seats and crimps with the same die, would it be smart for me to practice on some blank cases until I get the hang of adjusting for seating/ crimping?

Practice building cartridges with just the case and bullet (no powder, no primer) is always a good thing. Lots of people keep one perfect cartridge around to help set their dies and other useful purposes. You can always "unload" a practice cartridge using a kinetic bullet puller, like this...... https://www.midwayusa.com/product/685703/rcbs-powr-pull-impact-bullet-puller-kit

Question 4. The internet is undecided on whether 2400 and small pistol primers get along well. Apparently her grandpa never had any issues because he seemingly used this combo often.

This is another good reason you need a modern reloading manual.

Thanks in advance. I don't know anybody personally who reloads, and my local gun store employees aren't too talkative unless you're spending money.

Believe me, you DO NOT want reloading advice from some counter jockey ! Be sure and bounce all reloading advice off a good reloading manual. If the advice runs counter to what the manual says, then forget it. This may come as a shock... but not everything you hear (even on the internet) is true.

Be safe.