Beginning Reloading Questions

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fractal7

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So I'm getting my reloading operation off the ground and have a few questions.

First, I bought a RCBS kit and it came with the Speer #14 reloading manual and has recommended loads for Speer bullets. The other day though the only thing I could round up for .223 bullets were a few different Hornady bullets. Do I need to get a Hornady manual since the COAL listings and powder listings weren't for the specific bullets that I have? Or do I just look up a load and length for a 55 gr bullet?

Also, how bad of a case defect if worth tossing a case? The pictures in the Speer manual were of atrociously bad cases with big bulges and cracks, but what if there is a small dent or imperfection? I feel like if I stare at each case long enough I can find something wrong with it. I just haven't fired any reloads yet and don't want to blow my face off.

Finally, I accidently resized about a dozen pieces of .223 brass using a shellholder for 9mm. I didn't notice at first and it holds 223 cases, but will this actually affect the resizing if the die is set up properly? I measured the length to the shoulder and a few other measurements and they seem to be coming out correct to the book values but once again I don't want anything to go wrong.
 
Welcome!

Small defects ie; dents will just fire form when you shoot them. Splits or cracks in the neck or body are another story, toss them. Do not know what you're shooting, but I've got cases that I've reloaded 60+ times with mild loads in a bolt action .223.

Regarding resizing with wrong shell holder. No problem you're OK and so are the cases.

Another manual will never hurt, and the added knowledge will be of benefit to you. As long as you don't load to the max. you probably can use the load data from the Speer manual. Again it would help to know what you're shooting them in. In my bolt action I seat the bullet .002 from touching the rifling lands but in an auto, different story.
 
1 - my favorite manual is the speer #13. my favorite bullets are hornady. so, i use speer data w/ hornady bullets. no problems w/ that. to get your col, since bullets vary in length, let your rifle tell you what it should be. load a dummy bullet as long as you can and still fit the dummy in your magazine. then test for fit in the chamber. when you extract the case, are there rifling marks? if so, seat deeper, and continue the process until you get no rifling marks. this is your rifle's max col. until you get the hang of it, it may be easier to use a match and smoke the ogive of the bullet to make the rifling marks really stand out.

most case defects get ironed out in the sizer die. minor dents will fireform out in the chamber. toss cases w/ creases and cracks.

never tried the ol' 9mm shellholder - 223 stunt... my guess is you won't have any ill-effects from the practice the first time you do it, but you may not be able to get a round to chamber in subsequent firings because you can't get the shoulder bumped back. at any rate, test chamber a few cases. if they chamber ok, go ahead w/ 'em, but i'd reccomend discontinuing the practice...
 
Went and checked the 9mm shellholder with a .223 shell, fits loose. More than likely the worse thing is the bother of the case stuck in the die and off the shellholder. Other than that no problem, but make it easier and use the right holder.
 
Do I need to get a Hornady manual since the COAL listings and powder listings weren't for the specific bullets that I have?
Just a heads up. If you are loading .223 for an AR15, the max COAL to feed from a magazine is 2.260". Some of the loads in the manual may have a COAL that is longer than that. If you are loading for a bolt rifle then you don't need to worry.
 
First, I bought a RCBS kit and it came with the Speer #14 reloading manual and has recommended loads for Speer bullets. The other day though the only thing I could round up for .223 bullets were a few different Hornady bullets. Do I need to get a Hornady manual since the COAL listings and powder listings weren't for the specific bullets that I have? Or do I just look up a load and length for a 55 gr bullet?
You can use the load data for any brand bullet as long as the bullet weight and profile are the same. I also use the Speer 13 manual to load 55 grain Hornady and 62 grain pulled military bullets. Start at the recommended starting load and work up.

Also, how bad of a case defect if worth tossing a case? The pictures in the Speer manual were of atrociously bad cases with big bulges and cracks, but what if there is a small dent or imperfection? I feel like if I stare at each case long enough I can find something wrong with it. I just haven't fired any reloads yet and don't want to blow my face off.
I will load a case with a very small dent but it doesn't take much for me to throw it in the scrap bucket.

Rusty
 
Re: Case defects-

It is normal for .223 to get dings and nicks from the extraction process of a semi auto rifle. As long as it is a gentle ding or small nick in the body of the case or up by the mouth it's OK. If the dent is in the sharp bend of the shoulder & it "breaks" the edge, if the dent leaves a sharp line or crease at the edge, or if it is obviously a large dent, or if the mouth is bent to the point that it creases the brass- it gets scrapped. Even though brass isn't cheap, saving a quarter and possibly damaging the chamber is not cost effective.
 
Please explain how? I just miked the overall height, & the depth from top to bottom where the shell will seat while resizing. The largest variation I found was .0015 inch in overall height and .001 inch from top of shell holder to the base where case will seat when resizing.

Not enough to affect headspace I don't believe, however I may be wrong, if so tell me where.

BTW this was a combination of handgun and rifle shellholders, most but not all Lee.
 
in this specific circumstance you are ok. however, if you were using a thinner profile shellholder instead of a thicker one (like you did), and you did a f-l resize, you would bump the shoulder too far.

essentially what you did was a little luck and a little neck sizing.
 
different brands? bad day at the machine shop? worn tooling? dunno...

the gap the rim slides in sized differently, allowing cases more vertical movement...

i just re-read my note... not real clear. apologize for that.
 
Aww Come on U.S. quality control is better than that. Especially on something that has to do with reloading and the legal responsibilities that sloppy quality would incur.
 
In theory, headspace on a RIMLESS case is measured from the back of the case to DATUM LINE on the case's shoulder.
This measurement is maintained in the rifles chamber AND in the SIZING die by precise use of headspace gauges.
The same measurements are taken into account when machining the shell holder for the particular cartridge.
It is presicely why, in a full length sizing operation the shell holder can come in contact with the mouth of the die and STILL not "push the shoulder back" creating excessive headspace.
Measuring O.A.L., while advantageous, does not CORRECTLY address the problem.
Obtain the proper shell holder.
Respectfully, Zeke
 
Shell Holders

The Shell Holders made today measure .125" +/-.001" Redding does make some custom shell holders in a package to adjust cartridge headspacing when FLRSing that do not conform to this measurement. Takes a few seconds to measure a new shell holder to check to see if its within specification. IMG_2896A.gif
 
The Shell Holders made today measure .125" +/-.001"

Absolutely correct, this was what I was trying to get across, thanks for the picture. Shell holders not altered "or the specialized ones mentioned" all measure the same, at least mine do for the 20 some calibers I reload for.

Shell holders made to spec. and left unaltered do not change the headspace.
 
It's possible to create excessive headspace using the WRONG shellholder!
A way out of spec .223 shell holder can cause problems as far as that goes, but it's not likely. 99% of reloaders never measure their shell holders. I know I did not for many years. The makers know this. They are very careful and we are lucky that the vast majority of reloading dies/shellplates/shell holders work without having to check everything.

When we start getting real picky trying to fit our rounds to a chamber etc, then those things start to matter more. Other than that, most folks just want their stuff to be in spec, fire and function.

It never hurts to mark them either.

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Shell Plates

You can get a bad Shell Plate, as i did. They can be measured also. If your loading bottle necks like 223, the cartridge headspacing can be way off. This is where some sort of measuring device comes in hand. RCBS precision mic, or a case gage. IMG_2905DILL1.gif
 
One more reason a case gauge is a good investment. This sample is .003 short by the gauge. It should be at least flush with the lower surface of the gauge, and, of course, shorter than the upper surface. It will be fine, but will work the brass a bit more than needed.

All of my Hornady shell plates are .125 to .128, mostly .126 & .127 though. Plenty close for me.

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It is not always a bright idea to use data from one book with another brand of bullet. Bearing surfaces vary, and the brass used varies...Caution must be exercised then doing any conjured up load data. One can never have too many loading manuals.
 
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