bench question for those with a MDF top

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I don't have a bench with an MDF top, but have cut and assembled a few acres of the stuff as a cabinetmaker and never did find a sheet that flaked like particle board. In fact, the edge fresh cut on a good table saw can slice a finger pretty easily.
 
I have a commercial bench similar to that shown below. I've had no problems with any chipping or flaking of the bench top in the 7 years I've used it for reloading.
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I'm also in the process of getting stuff together to build a new bench and I've been asking a bunch of questions myself. I was told (by a cabinet maker) that MDF would work but it needed to be sealed. He said if you set a big glass of ice tea on an un-sealed/painted? MDF top and it sweated much it would cause it to swell some. He recommended covering it with a 1/4" sheet of birch plywood. I also asked what would happen if I just had an MDF top on the bench and I whacked it really hard with a hammer. He said it might chip it but the 1/4" plywood glued down would protect against that too. The plywood would dent but it shouldn't break anything. I think that's the route I'm going to take.

ST
 
I built a new bench a few weeks ago.I topped it with 2x10's.I was thinking about MDF on top of that for a smooth surface.Maybe I'd be better off with plywood.I don't really have to do anything.It's ok like it is.
 
The MDF won't flake. Humidity and moisture cause hell on it though. If MDF isn't sealed VERY good, and it is subjected to moisture for any amount of time longer than a day, it will swell, bend, buckle, fold, and generally become less than ideal for anything but a bonfire. I would stick to plywood if it were me.
 
We used MDF for 20 plus years in furniture manufacturing. It does not chip like Particle Board does. Water is bad news for it if left alone. 1" MDF starts out about 16" thick before going through the press when made. if soaked in water it will easily double in thickness. That said, you can coat the top and edges with polyurethane and be good to go. You can also ease the edges with sand paper or a router to "dull" the edges. If you hit the flat surface with a hammer, it will put a dent in it. same as on the edge. If you hit it right on the edge though, it can chip slightly. Using a dull blade to cut it will cause chipping on the edge based on blade rotation.
 
"you can coat the top and edges with polyurethane and be good to go. You can also ease the edges with sand paper or a router to "dull" the edges."

I have worked with MDF and fully agree. I would NOt use less than two layers of 5/8 or 3/4 inches each, glued with construction adhesive to achieve sufficent strength for the long term stesses of reloading.

No matter the material used for a bench top, especially MDF, particle board or plywood, seal it. Best sealer I've found is a good grade of marine polyurethane. MinWax is fine.

No matter what finish you use, apply at least three coats, lightly sanded between coats. Four coats is much better!
 
Agreed too. Two sheets of 3/4 glued and screwed together (screw from the bottom). I put a pine 3/4 x 1 1/2 edge on mine (glued and nailed to the outside then softened with sandpaper) to (a) look better; and (b) ensure that I didn't chip an edge. Definitely seal the top with polyurthane -- it will suck up the first couple of coats (use a flat or satin). You won't get a slippery, bar-like top on it but that's a good thing as you don't want things sliding around too easily; just want to seal out moister and dirt.
 
For what it's worth, I also have used MDF for a lot of projects, both personal and professional.

I would at least double it to provide more pull-through resistance for the bolts of your press. Maybe even make up a washer plate to spread out the loads.

If you seal it well, I wouldn't worry about the top surface. I would, however, install a cap of solid wood along the edge. The edges of a bench take a lot of traffic and MDF will abrade away and chip over time. Gluing and screwing a 1/2" or 3/4" strip of maple or oak along the exposed edges would be a cheap and easy way to make a MUCH more durable product.

I did the same and my bench is two layers of 3/4" B/C plywood.

The only bench or work surface I've built that I didn't cap that way was made out of 3/4" thick steel plate. And it proved too heavy to move into our current house.

-Sam
 
Plywood table with a chunk of hardwood, like maple to reinforce the single stage press for rifle cartridges. When I ran a Lee Pro 1000, it did need reinforcement.

I use an old table saw guide to reinforce my single stage. Works.
 
all I can say about 1" MDF is...

get a friend to help you huff it around!

Your rotator cuffs will thank you, as that stuff is HEAVY!!

I laminated both sides of a sheet of 1" MDF for an oversized router table I built.

I used contact adhesive on the laminate and sealed the edges....

it's dead flat some 10 years later.... but I had to buy a 10' sheet and I still "feel the pain" of moving it around myself to this day.
 
Reading some of the replies you got, they must have forgotten that you already have an inch and a half top thickness with your 2X10's. Topping the 2X10 base with MDF will work fine, just glue and screw it down with sheet rock screws, counter sink, and fill the holes with wood filler that dries hard. I strongly suggest the front and sides of the top be flush with the base. Then add a 3/4"x 2 1/4" pine or hardwood face (3/4 MDF + 1 1/2 2x10) around it. That will protect the edges of your top. Touch the face edges with a sanding block to prevent slivers and cuts. Sealing the top is a good idea as previously suggested, or even better if you have a little extra to spend, glue home depot laminated plastic to the top, flush with the MDF edges...then add the pine or hardwood face. You would want to glue and finish-nail the face flush with the top of the "formica."

The laminated top could even be a later project;)

I do have a little experience, having been a building contractor for 40 years.
 
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I put a couple of layers of MDF together using glue and screws. I used a vehicle driven on them to press them together then put in screws. Cut to size and cover with cheap Formica. It provides a smooth easy to clean work surface and looks finished. Very heavy duty and cheap. :)
 
When I built my bench I topped it with 1/4" masonite, not as expensive as plywood and holds up better, I counter sunk #6 screws along the edge so that when it comes time to replace it'll be an easy job, it's been about 4 yrs and it still looks good.
 
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