Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by joeydonuts, Feb 22, 2017.
Just a quick check on Gunbroker and I see a bunch of S&W 19, 586, 686, and a variety of j frame .357s in the $300 to $400 ish price range. The key is patience. Google search pawn shops and firearms dealers in your area and make a few calls. Check the For Sale boards ad local ranges. About 10 years ago I picked up this PA Dept of Correction S&W model 65 trade in for $350.00.
Take your pick, model 10's and 64's under $350. I've done business with this guy before, I'd recommend him again.
I bought one a couple of years ago from J&G & it is a little worn finish-wise, but a true Smith & and well worth $350. Lock-up, accuracy, and internals are top-notch.
Does it have to be .357? (Because, S&W .38 snubs can be had for about that.)
The 66 is a K-Frame; the 586 & 686 are L-frames.
I believe he meant the Taurus 66. It's actually the size of the Smith 686.
Smith 66 =/= Taurus 66.
J&G has Model 10s for $299.95:
Correct, and thanks for clearing that up.
There isn't anything inherently mechanically wrong with the .357 eaa windicator. The .357 models are all steel framed and pretty stout. There are are cosmetic issues that one will notice over time that does not hurt function.
All of these come into the states as 4" models. They may leave Germany with 2 or 4" shrouds but they all have 4" barrels. They are cut down to 2" barrels if so designated by eaa. They do a poor job of cutting the barrel down here in the states. The 4" models all have nice finishing of the barrel. Over time the lopped off barrel of the 2" will rust. So keep that in mind and cold blue them asap.
Also the matte nickle models of these have very delicate finishes. Any hot 357s will start to make the finish start peeling from the cyl face back. Been there done that twice. Also the barrel shrouds of all the length revolvers is Zamak....not the barrel.... just the shroud. This doesn't matter much with the nickle guns but the blued guns use a different process to blue the frame than the Zamak shroud. So over a few years the barrel shroud will turn purple verses the frame. The bluing on the frame is actually pretty good at least.
The grips on the .357s will eventually try to pull through the washer on the single bolt holding it to the grip frame.
This is remedied buy using a larger washer for the grip. Easy fix.
None of these are major issues. The fitment and frame build are of actually very good quality. It's the finishes that need work. The blued .357s are still one of the best deals out there if you can find them under $275. After much more than that you need to start looking elsewhere.
The charter arms mag pugs are nice enough now and they have a decent warranty. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another if I saw one that caught my eye.
With eaa you will be paying both ways for warranty work even with the lifetime warranty. So keep that in mind.
If those are G/VG (good to very good) then I would hate to see fair. They look pretty rough. Looks like they are re-imports, with the hideous CAI import markings on the side plate.
2. Also at this time Shoot-Straight.com ( s central Fla. gunshop) was advertising S&W model 15 4" blue for $250. These were Fla. Dept. of Corrections trade-ins. I got "the pick of the litter" for $275 and it is 95%+.
No stampings or dept. marks.
Just examples of what is out there if you look hard.
1) a 9 shot 6" ss revolver (m94?)
2) a 6 shot 357 ss snub (m66?)
That completes all the Taurus' I ever intend to own.
Problems with both.
357 went back for service last year and problem was not even fixed. Needless to say I was not happy to pay $66 for nothing. That put my cost in that used gun over $300.
Note: I too felt the trigger was too light on the 357.
And that DEFINITELY is NOT the problem with the 22! They say shooting it will loosen it up- it's had even bricks through it to build a pump house. I'd love to have that $300 back to put on a Ruger sp101 or the like.
Sometimes what you pay is the very least of your worries. I'd go Ruger or sw and never look back!
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