Best commercial cartridges for reloading?

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For 9mm I buy the Winchester Valu Box and use the Winchester brass. It is only a couple of cents more per case than the Starline. For .38 sp I buy Master ammuniton (wadcutters) again for the Winchester brass- about 3 cents more expensive than the Starline cases. For .357, 10mm and .45 ACP I buy Starline. I have noticed there is quite a spread in the Starline lengths and virtually all are shorter than the trim length listed in my reloading manuals. When I buy an order (500) I resize, measure and sort by size and use the groups of cases that will get me a good balance between using the most cases in the order and trimming as close as possible to the correct trim length. The ones that are TOO too short go into a "mixed range brass" coffee can I keep for plinking ammo. When I load my practice ammo, I try to load a box or two that I put back for la revolucion, so I want them to be uniform (identical) in trim, crimp, load (I measure each charge). They go into ammo cans with dissicant stored in a spare closet. I hope to join an IDPA group in the near future, and the "mixed range brass" will be used for that.
I'm not reloading for .223 yet, but I'm saving my Black Hills reman cases- just deprimed and cleaned two boxes this afternoon. That's about all the commercial .223 I shoot- I was shooting some XM193 from time to time but am hoarding that until I can figure out if it will become economically available again. brassman.com is another source for Lake City brass.
 
Ooh, beware, Gewehr!

For .223 Remington, I've taken a real shine to the Norinco brass.

Now there's a brilliant remark if ever I heard one. You use Brasso or Flitz? Or that Finnish stuff, Simichrompoli, for the final buffing I suppose. :D
 
What is it about the S&B than leads a few of you to say "avoid it" while Gewehr98 says "For 8mm Mauser, S&B is perfect, with a mil-spec thickness suited for European-level loads"?
I was planning on ordering a box of 200 bulk Sellier & Bellot from Cabelas to shoot then reuse the brass. I do not reload yet but am planning on getting into it, so I do save brass when I can.

Thanks
Keith
 
What is it about the S&B than leads a few of you to say "avoid it" while Gewehr98 says "For 8mm Mauser, S&B is perfect, with a mil-spec thickness suited for European-level loads"?
I was planning on ordering a box of 200 bulk Sellier & Bellot from Cabelas to shoot then reuse the brass. I do not reload yet but am planning on getting into it, so I do save brass when I can.

The only negative thing I've heard about S&B brass is that it's harder than most. What does that mean? Beats me. Shoot it and reuse it.

I've used S&B 9mm brass, but I haven't touched it for rifle calibers. I know the Winchester 7.62x54R brass is sourced from S&B and I've seen the stuff and it looks decent.
 
I use Remington UMC (R-P), Winchester White Box (Win) and Speer brass in 9mm and .45 acp. The Speer seems a little thin as it offers little resistance to resizing, flaring or seating. I prefer R-P and Win.
 
i really like lake city brass for 223, and the easiest source i have found for that is ultramax. doesnt shoot the greatest in my firearm but definatly not awful. Win white box is great, and rem R P cases have never given me problems. lately i've been loading W C C headstamps. i got the brass online so i couldnt tell you where it comes from in factory loads, but it would seem to be Winchester Cartridge Co maybe? not sure but it seems to be good stuff.

never found any S&B to load so i cant really comment on it. i can tell you that steel cases are never a good idea unless your really hell bent on em :neener: :eek:

federal hasnt given me any problems either, though i have heard some people voice concerns that the brass is soft, i shoot such mild loads that i dont get excessive case growth anyway.
 
The reason they say avoid S&B brass, is because the primer pocket is on the small side, and you'll have a heck of a time putting a new primer in. Also, forcing a primer in a smaller pocket can cause the primer to detonate.
 
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