Best way to strip finish off an Arsenal SLR-107CR?

[David Sinko]

I have an Arsenal SLR-107CR lined up for a decent price. Any suggestions on how to strip the original painted finish? I'm thinking about refinishing with either Gun-Kote or Dura-coat. Can the original finish be blasted off with aluminum oxide or is it best removed in a different manner?

Dave Sinko

 

[rcmodel]

Any finish can be blasted off with aluminum oxide.
I don't care what it is.

rc

 

[dfariswheel]

Bead blasting is the way to go.
This not only removes the old finish, it micro-roughens the surface, and the rough surface gives the new finish a "tooth" to bond to.
This increases the adhesion and strength of the finish.

 

[Sam1911]

Aluminum oxide might be a bit aggressive, but if you're gentle, it will certainly do the job.

FWIW, Carb Cleaner will take Duracoat right off...ask me how I know...

But I don't know if it will touch the original finish.

And Gun-Kote and Dura Coat are pretty different. You might want to make sure you know which you'd prefer.

 

[animator]

120 grit aluminum oxide will be perfect for removing that finish.


You can use a wire wheel on a grinder to strip it first, then hit with the sandblaster to make the sandblasting go much faster and not dirty up the blast media so quickly.


It'll leave a nicely etched surface that will take very well to parkerizing, or you can go straight to duracoat. Either way, you will want to scrub the rifle with some denatured alcohol afterward. This will remove the blast media, as well as ensure it has been completely degreased, as any spec of grease or oil will cause duracoat to bubble up and flake off after it has dried.

 

[janobles14]

bead blasting...much more even if done right

 

[David Sinko]

Thanks for all the replies. I'm actually having second thoughts about doing this myself. Whatever I choose will be professionally done. I am wary of Duracoat and I'm leaning toward Gun-Kote. Or maybe parkerizing. I want something that is not defeated by a solvent. I guess I need to do more research.

Dave Sinko

 

[Sam1911]

Well, parkerizing is a fantastic surface treatment, and if you apply Gun-Koke over top of that, you'll have one of the most durable firearms finishes possible.

 

[Mizar]

...I want something that is not defeated by a solvent...

I have a hard time understanding your intentions - the factory finish (though not pretty) is as solvent and wear resistant as it can get. Why bother?

Boris

 

[David Sinko]

The original finish seems to be two separate finishes. I can actually scratch off the top layer with my fingernail. What's underneath seems to be a sort of gray-black that's tougher, or I should say I can't remove it with my fingernail. As much as this thing cost, they should be embarassed by this finish. Finish aside, this gun is a fantastic shooter and all the more reason for me to NOT attempt to do this myself.

The Gun-Kote over parkerizing sounds good, but it also sounds like twice the work and twice the cost. I'll have to talk to my gunsmith and see what he says. He's a big fan of Duracoat, but I'm more inclined to go with Gun-Kote or simple parkerizing.

Dave Sinko

 

[Mizar]

Shame on Arsenal then - local or American... I remember the finish on SLRs being tougher than what you describe.

Boris