Blackhawk Problems

[kentucky bucky]

Hey fellas,
Have any of you guys (or girls) ever had any problem with Ruger Blackhawk transfer bars getting hung on the firing pin and locking up the action upon cocking the hammer? I bought mine new and I did put a free spin pawl in it and a spring kit. I was very carful, but my eyes aren't what they used to be. Did I leave out a tiny spring or something? sometimes I have to point the barrel straight up to flop the transfer bar back so I can cock it. The transfer bar also rattles a little when you shake the gun and has done so since I first took it out of the box. Is this normal? The gun is phenomenonally accurate for a revolver, but this is frustrating! Could it be that it was not finished right at the factory and the bar isn't properly shaped or did I "sproing" a small part across my basement?????

 

[Old Fuff]

First check to be sure the base pin (that's the one the cylinder revolves on) is all the way in and latched. If not, push it back where it's supposed too be.

If it was in all the way in the first place, take it out and look at the back end. You should see a little spring-loaded plunger. If it's missing, or jammed back into the pin that's your problem.

Some times when you fire heavy loads the base pin will jump it's latch and move forward. Then the transfer bar will catch in the way you describe. An after-market base pin (about $20.00 from Brownells) will end the problem because it has a little set-screw in the front that will lock the base pin to the barrel.

 

[Jim March]

Right, it's probably the base pin jumping or the "transfer bar pusher" at the end of the base pin that's bunged.

To check that end, pull the cylinder, and run the base pin back about an inch. You'll be able to inspect that end.

I hope it's one of those...if not, things are quite seriously wrong. Gunsmith-time wrong.



Brownells sells replacement base pins, but the best ones are Belt Mountain pins which Brownell's sells, but it's sometimes better to go straight to the source:

http://www.beltmountain.com/

The #5 type is the fanciest and most expensive. The sheriff's model can be useful for some applications, the Colt-type is kinda neat, etc.

Not only do these lock in place, they're a little thicker and tighten the action a bit. They're good for an accuracy boost in some situations.

A really neat and cheap performance upgrade.

 

[kentucky bucky]

I forgot to add that I did replace the factory pin with a Belt Mountain replacement pin. Today I inspected the little plunger that holds the transfer bar away from the firing pin. and it seems to be doing the job! Could the plunger get suck down occasionally and cause the above mentioned problem? Upon reflection it seems that the problem always starts after I've been on the range a while. Recoil? Dirt?:banghead:

 

[Old Fuff]

As you surmise, the purpose of the little spring and plunger in the back of the base pin is to push the transfer bar backwards while the hammer’s being cocked so that the tip of the bar won’t catch under the firing pin. If the transfer bar does start catching you can check by first UNLOADING the gun and then pointing the muzzle up while cocking the hammer. Since gravity will cause the bar to fall backward it shouldn’t catch while you pull back the hammer.

The most common cause of this problem is that under the stress of recoil, the base pin creeps forward until the spring and plunger in the base pin no longer can touch the transfer bar. There is a small screw in the front of your replacement base pin that you can turn up against the barrel to prevent the pin from moving - just remember to unscrew it before you try to remove the pin.

The other (less) likely reason is that for some reason the plunger is catching inside the base pin. If this were the case I’d return it to the manufacturer for correction or replacement.

 

[Indigo22]

just a note:
Don't send it back to Ruger with your modifications in place. They will convert it back to stock issue and keep all non-stock parts.

 

[Byron]

I had the same problem on a used single six in 32 Magnum. All checks were done as listed by others in the topic. I took apart to se if I could fix it(Big Mistake). I sent it all to Ruger and had it back in under two weeks. The revolver is more accuate than before and works flawlessly. Byron