Blasting with the 357 Redhawk - Trigger question?

[Peter M. Eick]

I was out with the 357 7.5" Redhawk yesterday just blasting away on the 15 yrds line. This Redhawk seems to have been rarely shot so it is a lot rougher feeling than my 5.5" 357 Redhawk. I put about 500 rounds of 14.5grns of 2400 with a 158 SWC which seemed like shooting 38's out of my heavy duty's.

Question though. Any easy trigger job recommendation for a home tinkerer?

I find that the Redhawk is heavy trigger right up until it breaks and then I have a lot of follow through because the pull weight drops a bunch.

 

[hardluk1]

You could give the trigger group a good cleaning and lube with a light synthetic or graphite. Go to youtube and watch a couple disassembly videos . Not hard to do and wolf spring kits give you an option of spring weight to try. Just besure you have NO lite strikes.

Grity feeling should go away with use. But some snap caps and click away at home can help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSPi3ZHUCeY

 

[Vern Humphrey]

One trick is to fill the gun's innards with a mix of light oil and abrasive tooth power and dry fire a thousand times, then disassemble and thoroughly clean. Add Wolff springs and you should have a fine trigger pull.

 

[CraigC]

Problem with the Redhawk and spring rate is that the mainspring is also the trigger return. If you can tune a S&W, you can tune a Redhawk. Slick up the parts that are rubbing, preferably with stones. You may be able to drop a couple pounds on the hammer spring without any issues.

One trick is to fill the gun's innards with a mix of light oil and abrasive tooth power and dry fire a thousand times, then disassemble and thoroughly clean.

Which will affect ALL surfaces, rather than just the ones you want.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Which will affect ALL surfaces, rather than just the ones you want.

But that doesn't hurt anything -- all the paste does is polish.

One key to getting a smooth trigger action is to polish everything -- the sides of the frame where parts rub up against it, the sides of the parts, and so on.

 

[19-3Ben]

But that doesn't hurt anything -- all the paste does is polish.

And it keeps the gun from getting the gum disease known as GINGIVITIS!!!!

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Absolutely. If you take your gun in for an annual dental checkup, it should last a lifetime.

 

[CraigC]

One key to getting a smooth trigger action is to polish everything -- the sides of the frame where parts rub up against it, the sides of the parts, and so on.

No, you stone the high friction areas and remove roughness, high spots and burrs. There's a reason why gunsmiths stone the action parts and slots in the frame, rather than just putting all the innards in a tumbler. Not to mention that stoned parts hold oil and slide smoothly against each other. Bright polished parts tend to chatter.

 

[Old Fuff]

Guys, toothpaste belongs in the bathroom...

The whole idea of coating parts with a fine abrasive is debatable, but real-life professional gunsmiths don't use toothpaste. Brownells (www.brownells.com) sell abrasive paste and paper in different grades. Sometimes abrasive paper (available also in the paint departments of automobile supply stores) wrapped around a stick or dowel will work better then a stone. But removing metal anywhere can affect tolerance stacks and have unintended consequences.

Last but not least, depending on what you do may void the company warrantee.

 

[Peter M. Eick]

Thanks for the input. I have been finding lots of information and will continue to learn before I try anything. These are not common guns so no point in messing with it.