Bluing help

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DaveJS

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I purchased a partial Brownell's bluing setup. I have 3 tanks, 3 burners &
stands. The burner pipes do not have mixers & I'm stuck on how to get
them hooked up. Of course I'm attempting to stay low buck. I am using
natural gas.
2 pipes 3/4" with one row of holes 40" long
1 pipe 3/4" with two rows of holes 40" long
 
Bluing setups

The burner with two rows of holes is the one for the bluing tank. it needs enough heat, to reach 300 degrees.

The other tanks and burners ( I don't have brownell instructions, almost 40 years around another setup) should be hot wash and hot rinse.

If by mixers, you mean the gas jet/orfice and air regulator plates, talking to an appliance repairman, our the parts clerk at a BBQ speicalty store may be your best bet.

With you only having 3 tanks and using my forty years around bluing I have to ask..........

What about A cold water quench tank? 300 degree steel going into hot water is at the least dicey, and usually a little exciting! handling 200 to 300 degree parts while inspecting color is a bit of a juggling act! redoing parts that close to the end of the job is a crying shame. Also cooling the parts in fresh water reduces the tendency to grow a film of red rapidly befroe your eyes!

And also a water displacing oil tank? getting the water droplets away from the finish will help the job look better and not be damaged sooner!
 
Big Az Al has some good points, may I also add that your fresh water rinse be a fresh flowing water rinse and be filtered water, you can buy a R.V. filter from sears that works wonders.
If you are looking for a good job of bluing, going cheap isn't always the best course.
Prior preparation is so very important to a good job, A buffing wheel can ruin a job in a hurry take your time and read the directions before you start. Brownell's will give you a copy for free if you E-mail the tech department.
Also keep a little vinegar around to get rid of the sting once the fumes get on your face. don't get anywhere near bare metal, alum, or the fumes will mess it up, keep cooper and brass out of the salts as well or they won't work.
 
More bluing stuff

Thanks Big Al,
I have a fiberglass tank for the cold water rinse and another 40" steel tank
for the water displacing oil. I'm thinking along the same lines as you
about the grill parts, but am unsure of the oriface size needed and if it
will heat the salts tank in a reasonable amount of time.
I have Brownell's bluing instructions & they make it sound not too bad, but
but I'm having doubts if I want to attempt this.
Tx again,
Dave
 
I want to say

Almost any tech, that works around natural gas and propane will have a cheat sheet around that

will give size of orfice per

burner size and BTU rating

and By type of gas!

When Dicks Gas Grills was right around the corner from my parents, he had that knowledge in his head and only used the cheat sheet to double check what he was selling.
 
Hot Blue

Hi. You must have bought this setup used. All Brownell's burners come with the mixer. I use JantzSupply burners (less money), and they too came with the mixer. Maybe one of those two companies will sell you the mixers.
 
Thanks George R,
I ordered the the bluing tank burner from Jantz. I'll check it out and see
what I need to make my other burners work. They are the hot water &
cleaner, so are not as critical. Jantz was about $60.00 less than Brownell's.
Dave
 
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