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Bolt action suppressor

Joined
Nov 28, 2009
Messages
1,115
Location
Thatcher arizona
I’m looking to get started on a suppressor for my 223 rem700. it’s a 20”. Having it threaded tomorrow. Going with a griffin minimalist so I can use my 30cal can for now on it. What’s a good can for it? Was looking at griffin and otter creek the palomino looks good and is priced good. But then was also looking at surefire. I want decibel reduction. I don’t want 8” long. I’d prefer a chonky can. 2” diameter. I sure wish I could find the form 1 stuff again. Anyway.
what do you guys thing? Looking to buy about the 15/16th this month
 

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If you already have a 30 caliber suppressor, just use it. Most will be quieter than a dedicated 223 caliber suppressor because they have a larger volume capacity to trap the gasses. I use all three of my 30 caliber suppressor's on smaller caliber firearms.
 
If you already have a 30 caliber suppressor, just use it. Most will be quieter than a dedicated 223 caliber suppressor because they have a larger volume capacity to trap the gasses. I use all three of my 30 caliber suppressor's on smaller caliber firearms.
Yeah I don’t care for it. Mines an older 30cal. And I’m looking for shorter than 8-8.5”. The bansh is 7”. Was looking at the yhm t3 also. It’s 5.6”. I really would like 6-7”. Probably be the banish
 
I hate to speak negatively about another manufacturer, but the Banish cans are pretty much very expensive, very basic solvent trap form 1 type suppressors with fixed direct thread or proprietary mounting.

If they were $300, I say "eh, what the heck, give it a go." But even the cheaper one is a grand. You can do a lot better for less coin.

As well, unless you shoot a lot of cast bullet .300 blk or similar, there are more downsides than benefits to a serviceable rifle suppressor. There's a reason most of us make fully welded rifle cans, and it's not because it's easier to do.
 
As well, unless you shoot a lot of cast bullet .300 blk or similar, there are more downsides than benefits to a serviceable rifle suppressor. There's a reason most of us make fully welded rifle cans, and it's not because it's easier to do.

I hear this a lot on various forum but never see any reason stated, other than someone occasionally saying that they are heavier which is a valid argument in some cases. I understand that volume and the baffle design is the primary performance driver and that isn't particularly germane, but assuming both use quality materials and have a decent baffle design, what exactly makes serviceable rifle suppressors "worse"?
 
Remember a "30cal can" is going to be fatter, longer and around double the weight of a comparable 5.56 silencer.

The sealed welded ones tend to be lighter, cheaper or the same price but have more baffles and are more likely to have more intricate baffle design. A welded 7 inch long sealed 5.56 silencer might have have 10 baffles in it where a serviceable 7 inch one is likely to have 3 or 4.
 
I hate to speak negatively about another manufacturer, but the Banish cans are pretty much very expensive, very basic solvent trap form 1 type suppressors with fixed direct thread or proprietary mounting.

If they were $300, I say "eh, what the heck, give it a go." But even the cheaper one is a grand. You can do a lot better for less coin.

As well, unless you shoot a lot of cast bullet .300 blk or similar, there are more downsides than benefits to a serviceable rifle suppressor. There's a reason most of us make fully welded rifle cans, and it's not because it's easier to do.
The banish223 is 849 from them. It’s 7” and pretty light. I’ve not look into it but is a titanium build. I didn’t look at how many baffles it has. The videos I watch made it sound pretty good. I’ve got 2 weeks to look. I’m also looking at the otter creek palonium.
 
I hear this a lot on various forum but never see any reason stated, other than someone occasionally saying that they are heavier which is a valid argument in some cases. I understand that volume and the baffle design is the primary performance driver and that isn't particularly germane, but assuming both use quality materials and have a decent baffle design, what exactly makes serviceable rifle suppressors "worse"?

Things come loose, more interfaces to get dirty or worn and cause misalignment (especially with modulars), generally not as strong due to remaining tube wall thickness at thread roots. The Banish 30 tubes are only .035" thick at thread roots, less in the flutes.


The banish223 is 849 from them. It’s 7” and pretty light. I’ve not look into it but is a titanium build. I didn’t look at how many baffles it has. The videos I watch made it sound pretty good. I’ve got 2 weeks to look. I’m also looking at the otter creek palonium.

11.4 ounces is heavy for a small-ish 1.5 x 7" titanium can with a fixed DT mount. Our larger 1.375-24 HUB pattern 1.6 x 8" Accipiter Ti is 11.9 oz including a stainless steel 1/2-28 direct thread mount. The TBAC Ultra 7 (1.5 x 7 like the banish) is 9.8 ounces as a direct thread model.

Their suppression claims for the Banish are also fantastical, especially considering that 136-137 dB is the lowest you're gonna see at ear with an AR carbine, even with gas system adjustment and a low backpressure can. They're not hearing safe, period, regardless of can. High 130s is not horrible for a couple rounds, but you'll absolutely damage your ears doing mag after mag with a suppressed AR not wearing ear pro.

Also, don't base your judgment of any can on videos, good or bad. We try to represent them accurately, but it's just not possible. Noise leveling mics are the biggest issue there. On video, our 6.5" TLX .45 sounds almost as quiet as a .22 rimfire can. In person, it's a BIG difference. TLX still sounds great, especially for a thin & short .45 can, but it's nowhere near the high one-teens/low-120s of a good rimfire can on a pistol.

You'll be a lot happier with the Polonium, or one of many other models on the market.

I mean, it's your money, but know that I do try to help people make the best choice for their application and get the most bang for their buck, whether it's one of my models or not.
 
The ultimate quiet 223 load for bolt action uses around a max load of RE7.
It gave great accuracy but wouldn't cycle a semiauto even with a silencer on it.
Next choice is start to midrange load of H322, it's very clean burning.
 
Things come loose, more interfaces to get dirty or worn and cause misalignment (especially with modulars), generally not as strong due to remaining tube wall thickness at thread roots. The Banish 30 tubes are only .035" thick at thread roots, less in the flutes.
What are your brands? This will be 90% on a bolt gun for truck carrying and coyotes. I’ve seen a lot of praise in the polonium. This is why I wanted to post here and get a lot of feedback. I’ve got 2 weeks to look it up



11.4 ounces is heavy for a small-ish 1.5 x 7" titanium can with a fixed DT mount. Our larger 1.375-24 HUB pattern 1.6 x 8" Accipiter Ti is 11.9 oz including a stainless steel 1/2-28 direct thread mount. The TBAC Ultra 7 (1.5 x 7 like the banish) is 9.8 ounces as a direct thread model.

Their suppression claims for the Banish are also fantastical, especially considering that 136-137 dB is the lowest you're gonna see at ear with an AR carbine, even with gas system adjustment and a low backpressure can. They're not hearing safe, period, regardless of can. High 130s is not horrible for a couple rounds, but you'll absolutely damage your ears doing mag after mag with a suppressed AR not wearing ear pro.

Also, don't base your judgment of any can on videos, good or bad. We try to represent them accurately, but it's just not possible. Noise leveling mics are the biggest issue there. On video, our 6.5" TLX .45 sounds almost as quiet as a .22 rimfire can. In person, it's a BIG difference. TLX still sounds great, especially for a thin & short .45 can, but it's nowhere near the high one-teens/low-120s of a good rimfire can on a pistol.

You'll be a lot happier with the Polonium, or one of many other models on the market.

I mean, it's your money, but know that I do try to help people make the best choice for their application and get the most bang for their buck, whether it's one of my models or not.
 
So I guess I should ask. What are the better choices? Again. Be on a bolt gun. So direct thread would be fine. I would like some sort of a qd or locking that I can just pull off and not have to worry about a thread protector.
 
I’m looking to get started on a suppressor for my 223 rem700. it’s a 20”. Having it threaded tomorrow. Going with a griffin minimalist so I can use my 30cal can for now on it. What’s a good can for it? Was looking at griffin and otter creek the palomino looks good and is priced good. But then was also looking at surefire. I want decibel reduction. I don’t want 8” long. I’d prefer a chonky can. 2” diameter. I sure wish I could find the form 1 stuff again. Anyway.
what do you guys thing? Looking to buy about the 15/16th this month
When dad and I get our SOT all sorted out, we applied for it three weeks ago, I'll be getting a SilencerCo Hybrid 46M to test out on all kinds of guns. (Dealer cost is $750, retail is like $950-$1k) I already have a threaded barrel for my 1911 and a .578x28 piston, just need the booster assembly and some SilencerCo ASR QD mounts for my guns. We will also be getting a decent decibel/frequency tone tool to test scientific numbers on it. Like subsonic 45 Auto vs full power 6.5 PRC for instance.
 
So I guess I should ask. What are the better choices? Again. Be on a bolt gun. So direct thread would be fine. I would like some sort of a qd or locking that I can just pull off and not have to worry about a thread protector.
For a bolt action buy the one with the most internal baffling and most internal volume that you can stand to run since you won't have a noisy gas system to ruin the sound or charging handle to hit you in the face.
 
Things come loose, more interfaces to get dirty or worn and cause misalignment (especially with modulars), generally not as strong due to remaining tube wall thickness at thread roots. The Banish 30 tubes are only .035" thick at thread roots, less in the flutes.

Thanks for the answer, that makes a lot of sense.

I'm guessing that serviceable designs would be more common in cheaper suppressors (if we didn't have to deal with NFA) since it sounds like they are easier and cheaper to make that way and users could "easily" replace the parts when they broke (again only if we didn't have to deal with paying the $200 tax stamp and waiting a year to get the suppressor itself), and that higher end models would still be sealed for their better performance and strength.
 
So I guess I should ask. What are the better choices? Again. Be on a bolt gun. So direct thread would be fine. I would like some sort of a qd or locking that I can just pull off and not have to worry about a thread protector.

For starters, probably want to look at 1.375-24 HUB compatible stuff so you're not locked into a mounting system unless you pay someone like me to convert it (which, BTW, is really borderline on the Banish cans; I will probably refuse to convert them after this batch).

Another consideration of course is whether a dedicated 5.56 can is the right choice, or if the flexibility of a .30 cal is worth a little extra length and weight or higher muzzle end SPL (remember, your port noise with an AR or other autoloader is going to dominate anyway with most decent cans, so backpressure is a major consideration, and sometimes a .30 is a better choice).

And then use type; outside of the TBAC Dominus (which is a .30 cal), titanium is generally going to be a poor choice for a hard use carbine suppressor. Thunderbeast developed that one properly for the application with geometry and coatings, but most any other is going to be prone to sparking and suffer accelerated wear in that role. Titanium is a very tough and pretty strong metal, but it's not hard/abrasion resistant, and heavy rapid/full auto fire will cause baffle erosion quickly. In general, for hard use, you're going to want hardened stainless steels like 17-4 & 15-5, nickel alloys like heat treated Inconel 718 or even cobalt alloys like stellite. Of course you're going to pay more for the exotics, so balance need with budget. For most people's uses, stellite and inconel are not needed, especially if a muzzle brake mount is used on the short barreled things that are really hard on baffles.

As I said, the Polonium is definitely a better option than the banish. I don't really care for the aesthetics personally, but I know Andrew, and regardless of some personal faux pas, he and his team did their homework and are making a solid product.

Of course we have our Five By Five, which is a 5.56 K can that is 6.5mm capable and punches above it's weight. Tubeless fully welded 17-4 H900 stainless, 1.6" x 5", 10.8 ounces https://www.eccomachine.net/product/five-by-five/

The aforementioned TBAC Dominus, but as I said, it's a .30, and it's gonna be well outside your stated budget. Fits your short & fat criteria, though.

The YHM offerings are alleged to be much improved with with the 3rd generation as far as flash and backpressure, and if that's true, they're a good value, but I haven't seen a Turbo T3 or other current model yet so can't say. The T1, T2 and first gen Turbo K are very flashy and gassy.

Rex Silentium is a popular budget brand, and they're OK for the money, but they use a "one size fits all" approach with baffle geometry and spacing, just change bore size and baffle count, so the optimazion is a bit lacking. It's an option if you want to keep cost to a minimum without buying junk like the Po Boy or (now defunct) rebel cans

SilencerCo stuff is decent, and they have a solid warranty. Tend to be kinda heavy, though.

Griffin makes some very good 5.56 models, Austin is a stand up guy with a passion for this stuff.

Liberty Precision Machine is a newer company, but Riley is a bright kid who spent the time and money to R&D his stuff right. Only .30 cal options at this time, though.

The newer OSS cans seem to perform very well on ARs, but they use a completely proprietary mount that should not be changed on the can, and that nobody makes adapters for using with other suppressors at this time. We're investigating making a 1.375-24 adapter for the OSS muzzle devices, but awaiting quotes on custom carbide inserts to cut the 12 TPI left hand modified square threads. They're also not particularly budget friendly.

There are others that are very viable, but this is a starting point.
 
For starters, probably want to look at 1.375-24 HUB compatible stuff so you're not locked into a mounting system unless you pay someone like me to convert it (which, BTW, is really borderline on the Banish cans; I will probably refuse to convert them after this batch).

Another consideration of course is whether a dedicated 5.56 can is the right choice, or if the flexibility of a .30 cal is worth a little extra length and weight or higher muzzle end SPL (remember, your port noise with an AR or other autoloader is going to dominate anyway with most decent cans, so backpressure is a major consideration, and sometimes a .30 is a better choice).

And then use type; outside of the TBAC Dominus (which is a .30 cal), titanium is generally going to be a poor choice for a hard use carbine suppressor. Thunderbeast developed that one properly for the application with geometry and coatings, but most any other is going to be prone to sparking and suffer accelerated wear in that role. Titanium is a very tough and pretty strong metal, but it's not hard/abrasion resistant, and heavy rapid/full auto fire will cause baffle erosion quickly. In general, for hard use, you're going to want hardened stainless steels like 17-4 & 15-5, nickel alloys like heat treated Inconel 718 or even cobalt alloys like stellite. Of course you're going to pay more for the exotics, so balance need with budget. For most people's uses, stellite and inconel are not needed, especially if a muzzle brake mount is used on the short barreled things that are really hard on baffles.

As I said, the Polonium is definitely a better option than the banish. I don't really care for the aesthetics personally, but I know Andrew, and regardless of some personal faux pas, he and his team did their homework and are making a solid product.

Of course we have our Five By Five, which is a 5.56 K can that is 6.5mm capable and punches above it's weight. Tubeless fully welded 17-4 H900 stainless, 1.6" x 5", 10.8 ounces https://www.eccomachine.net/product/five-by-five/

The aforementioned TBAC Dominus, but as I said, it's a .30, and it's gonna be well outside your stated budget. Fits your short & fat criteria, though.

The YHM offerings are alleged to be much improved with with the 3rd generation as far as flash and backpressure, and if that's true, they're a good value, but I haven't seen a Turbo T3 or other current model yet so can't say. The T1, T2 and first gen Turbo K are very flashy and gassy.

Rex Silentium is a popular budget brand, and they're OK for the money, but they use a "one size fits all" approach with baffle geometry and spacing, just change bore size and baffle count, so the optimazion is a bit lacking. It's an option if you want to keep cost to a minimum without buying junk like the Po Boy or (now defunct) rebel cans

SilencerCo stuff is decent, and they have a solid warranty. Tend to be kinda heavy, though.

Griffin makes some very good 5.56 models, Austin is a stand up guy with a passion for this stuff.

Liberty Precision Machine is a newer company, but Riley is a bright kid who spent the time and money to R&D his stuff right. Only .30 cal options at this time, though.

The newer OSS cans seem to perform very well on ARs, but they use a completely proprietary mount that should not be changed on the can, and that nobody makes adapters for using with other suppressors at this time. We're investigating making a 1.375-24 adapter for the OSS muzzle devices, but awaiting quotes on custom carbide inserts to cut the 12 TPI left hand modified square threads. They're also not particularly budget friendly.

There are others that are very viable, but this is a starting point.
I was looking at a can that runs a 6mm bore. I can’t remember which one. I’ve looked at some of the ECCO cans. I actually talked to them about recoring my old 30cal can since the company that made it is out of business now. I’m getting the Remington thread today so these days off I’ll have the griffin taper mount here and I’ll try the 30cal on it. See how it does. I’m not opposed to 30cal. I just don’t really have a use to run it. I put it on my ptr91 every once and again. Or I hunt with it on my 7mag. Idk. I was just assuming I suppose that a dedicated 223 would be better off on a bolt gun due to bore size. I’m glad you know a little about the topic lol. I’m getting a lot of good feedback. There was a guy that dealt with inconel parts. Spacers for blast chambers and baffles as well. I had a bunch of that stuff at the house but then my wife got sick and I could spare the cash to finish it. I sold it back on the forum one 1 forum. I wish I could have kept it. I was building a 1.75x5” 223 can. That was the plans anyhow.
 
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