Bore Cleaning on SKS

[DontBurnMyFlag]

Hey guys, Im sorry if this is the wrong forum, but it seems as good a place as any. So I went to the range today with my new yugo sks. To keep it cheap I only bought 40 rounds. I shot them off without a hitch, wiped any oil that came out of my gun from the previous cleaning, and wiped any cosmo that still leaked from the stock. After that I went home, sprayed a boresnake with hoppes bore cleaner and ran it through my barrel twice (once wet, once dry). I didnt oil, or clean any of the other parts on the gun. Should I have? I only shot 40 rounds, so I figured it can wait until my next shoot. I shot brand new winchester 7.62x39 so they werent corrosive. Is there anything Im missing? Anything I didnt do? I know my sks is a simple, cheap rifle, but I like to take care of it. If theres anything I missed, or If Im in the wrong forum, please let me know. Thanks for the help in advance.

 

[jonnyc]

That's non-corrosive ammo, so you should be ok. However, if you might still have any cosmo inside...get it out.

 

[Murphster]

There's one potentially dangerous thing that you should check on. SKS rifles have firing pins that must be able to move freely within the bolt. That means when you shake the bolt, the firing pin should rattle back and forth. If it's stuck in place because of crud/cosmolene, the rifle can slam fire, meaning the gooed in place firing pin can fire the cartridge before the bolt is fully closed and locked. Can be unhealthy for the rifle and operator. Do a search on this forum for cleaning tips. Letting the bolt assembly soak overnight in a solvent (paint thinner, etc) or spraying with liberal amounts of brake cleaner are two means to clean the cosmolene out of the bolt. I soaked mine in gasoline for ten minutes in a plastic tub in my back yard but that's a good way to catch fire or explode so I never recommend it. I'm a gun cleaning nut who can't let a fired gun remain uncleaned, but that's just me. Sounds like your rifle will be fine. (And if you were already aware of the firing pin info, disregard. Just want everyone here to be safe.)

There's a downloadable manual here:

http://www.interordnance.com/library/

Here's another good source of information:

http://www.surplusrifle.com/sks/index.asp

 

[Zeke Menuar]

There is a fix for the slamfire problem here: http://www.murraysguns.com/sksown.htm

I put one on my Yugo SKS. Highly recommended

ZM

 

[PowderBurn]

What Murphster said is EXACTLY what happened to me a couple of months ago, and it ain't funny. My Chinese SKS went full-auto on me for three rounds last fall. Then earlier this spring it started going off as soon as the bolt slammed shut, even with the safety on. When I stripped it down and pulled the firing pin out, I could see that it was caked with cosmo and other crud. I cleaned that out real well and took it back to the range the next day. Now it shoots great, and safely. I HIGHLY recommend that you clean yours out right away too, before you get the symptoms.

Take care.

 

[DontBurnMyFlag]

guys, thats one of the first things i checked for when i first cleaned it. I made sure that whatever way i tilt my rifle, that the firing pin falls in that direction. it takes the slightest amount of pressure to move it. I made sure that there is no cosmo there. I used gun scrubber on it and the gunsmith dropped it in his cleaner too. The only cosmo left in the gun is small amounts that have seeped into the stock. There is none left on any metal parts of the gun. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[cortez kid]

I've found that good ole charcoal liter fluid works great also. Dosen't have a bad smell and is easy to find.
good shootin
kid

 

[The Drew]

The other thing is to make sure the cosmo is out of the gas system...

Mine was SOLID full of cosmo and I'm sure it wouldn't have cycled if I hadn't cleaned it...

 

[MAUSER88]

You cleaned it enough for 40 rounds. You can run them all day without a good cleaning. Try some Wolf ammo as that Winchester stuff is pretty expensive. It's non-corrosive and works well in any SKS.

Where do you shoot at?

 

[DontBurnMyFlag]

i shoot at hagues indoor range in west deptford. the fartherst distance is 25 yards there. So im looking for an outdoor range. Any suggestions?

 

[MAUSER88]

Email inbound.

 

[mainmech48]

While you can get away with the sort of cursory cleaning of the bore that you describe for a goodly while with an SKS, doing so habitually will make the eventual thorough cleaning of the gas system, bolt/carrier, and trigger mechanism messy and time-consuming.

Since field stripping an SKS is a simple, straight-forward proceedure and needs only a cartridge or similar pointed object to effect, it'll save you time and grief in the long run to give the gas piston(s) and tube and the bolt/carrier at least a wipe-down and inspection after every session.

That'll keep the crud from building up in the gas port, on the piston and in the tube, prevent corrosion from getting a foothold, and spot most impending problems before they get serious.

Not having the chamber and bore chrome plated does make your Yugo more susceptible to wear and damage from corrosive ammo and rust, but there really isn't much ammo with corrosive priming in 7.62x39 around anymore. But all ammo deposits carbon and metal fouling in the gas system, so that's your biggest potential trouble spot if it's left uncleaned for long periods. Carbon (soot) is hygroscopic (draws in moisture from the air) and the high-temperature gases which cycle things will make sure that any protectant film on the parts exposed to them is burned off in short order. Leave that soot on things while there's even a normal humidity level for very long, and you will see rust sooner than you'd think.

IIWY, I'd take the little bit of extra time and effort to field strip your SKS and give all of the vital areas at least "a lick and a promise" after very range session. It will go a long way to extend the life of your carbine and keep it in first-class shape.

BTW, using Wolf or the other E. European mil-spec generic ammo with mild steel cases and "hard" military primers will save you a lot of money compared to Winchester or the other domestically-made generics, especially if you buy it in some quantity. You won't be giving up much, if anything, in the way of accuracy and you'll be able to practice more often, too.

 

[DontBurnMyFlag]

i just followed my russian army manual translated into english. I field stripped it, cleaned the bore with patches and a copper brush. I used gun scrubber and RBC on the slide and then lightly oiled them. The only problem was the gas tube and piston. They seemed to be sticking at the end the piston comes out of. However, it says to keep them dry, so I didnt oil them. Also, there was carbon on the part where the gas tube attaches to the front sight, and I didnt know what to do with that. ITs taking some getting used to, but I think cleaning this will get easier and easier.

 

[mainmech48]

The primary gas piston should be a rather snug fit at the port end of the tube. As long as there's not a great deal of resistance, don't worry about it. If the resistance to movement isn't fairly consistent through the length of travel, you might want to take some solvent and a nylon or bronze bore brush of the right diameter for the tube and give it a few licks. Any baked-on carbon or gilding metal can be removed and should slick-up the travel for you.

Getting the deposits off the piston's head will help, too. Pay extra attention to the grooves and the face. The "cup" in the face can collect a good deal of metal fouling as well as just carbon, and it can be a real PITA to get it off if you let it go too long, especially if the head isn't flash-chromed. Whatever you do, DON'T use anything abrasive on it!! A bronze brush or a bit of Scotch Brite pad if you must, but no steel wool or polishing compounds.

A few q-tips and a worn bronze brush used with bore cleaning solvent will get most all of the crud out of the gas port block. In extreme cases, you might need that little scraping tool found in some issue cleaning kits to clear the port orifice itself. The solvent and swabs routine will generally be enough to keep the port from getting clogged unless you run several hundred rounds through it between cleanings.

FWIW, I like to use a little GI rifle grease (usually found in those little plastic pots with the yellow top at shows, etc.) on the bolt's camming surfaces and in the grooves in the carrier where it rides on the receiver. Just a light coat applied with a q-tip seems hold up longer under extended firing than just oil while also keeping noticable signs of wear to the surfaces down to a minimum.

Don't neglect the secondary piston (in the tunnel in the rear sight housing) and its spring. Not necessarily an "every time" thing, but check it out regularly. You can just wipe the piston, spring, and their "tunnel" off with some solvent and reoil them. You'll be surprised at how much blow-by can find its way into there over time.

I know it sounds like a lot more work, but it really isn't. If you've already field stripped it everything that can need attention is right out there anyway. IMO, making good maintenance a routine will do more to stave-off problems and keep your carbine working, shooting and looking better longer than anything else you can do.

 

[DontBurnMyFlag]

thanks alot. there was someone who told me not to use a copper (bronze?) brush in the gas tube. I did use it however, and my gunsmith said the same thing. I cleaned ALOT of carbon off of it with gun scrubber and a brush. it slides nice and easy now with a tiny bit of resistance at the top. and if i tilt it upside down, the tube falls right out easily. Im still not sure if I should have used a copper (bronze?) brush or not? They said not to scratch the inside, but it doesnt appear scratched to me. hmm

Im really new to this whole gun cleaning thing. Im glad I have an SKS to experiment on. Now when it comes to doing it right, im really trying to get it down pat. So sorry for beating a dead horse, but heres what i do.

1. clean the action parts, bolt, reciever, carrier, trigger group with gun scrubber let them dry and slightly oil.

2. i clean the barrel with hoppes 9 solvent spray, a brush, patches, and then dry patches.

3. I cleaned the gas tube with a bore brush (bronze or copper, im not sure), i then shoot it clean with gun scubber, dry it out, and do the same with the piston. I leave them dry and dont oil them. Thats what one of the manuals told me. Is this all right?

I really hope Im getting this down and didnt damage my gun in anyway.

 

[DontBurnMyFlag]

again with me flogging the deceased equine. Do i have to clean the gas port alot? The part which the tube slides into, below the front sight. It build up carbon, but do I have to clean it as much as everything else? Thanks again guys.

 

[Ivy Mike]

You should clean it from time to time if only to ensure against stoppage or scoring.

The SKS's are known for going bang no matter what, but there is no reason to tempt fate.

 

[50 Shooter]

Just remember that Hoppes 9 is not a copper remover, you'll need to use a copper remover from time to time to get rid of the copper deposits from the jackets.

Try Boretech's Eliminator, I use it on my .50. It doesn't contain any ammonia so there's no harsh oder. It cleans copper like mad, if you use a copper brush you'll have to ditch it after a couple uses as it will eat it also.

 

[mainmech48]

IF you have any misgivings about using a bronze (most brands are; tougher and more resistant to solvents than other alloys with copper) brush in your gas tube, buy one with nylon bristles and use it. Almost all of the major suppliers make them. FWIW, bronze is much 'softer' than the mildest steel, so scratching the surfaces in your tube with one would be difficult, to say the least. Any solvent designed to attack the gilding metal (a copper alloy) fouling will affect bronze to some degree. The more "aggressive" the formula, the faster the brush will deteriorate. That's why the makers of most popular "super solvents" for copper fouling specify or recommend using a stiff-bristled nylon bore brush with their products. They'll work just as nicely in your gas tube as they do in the bore.

On the walls of your gas tube, the firing residue is primarily carbon. Any "nitro" solvent will take care of that quite well. Good ol' Hoppe's #9 will do just as good a job on it as the much more expensive "wonder cleaners". Hoppe's will remove routine copper fouling too; it just take more time.

Since your Yugo's bore and chamber aren't plated, I'd run a patch wetted with preservative oil or WD-40 through them after cleaning. Cheap insurance, especially if it's likely to sit for a while between range sessions. I'd rather have to remember to run a couple of dry ones through before loading at the next outing than find rust in my bore.

I swab out the gas block every time I do routine cleaning. The tube's off anyway, and it'll only take a minute. At the very least it'll assure that the new crud is removed long before it can layer-up to the point where functioning might be impaired. It can't hurt anything, and it might help you spot an impending visit from Mr. Murphey before he gets to the door.

 

[DontBurnMyFlag]

wow guys. thanks alot for all that info. its a few things to get. but id be taking alot better care of my rifle than people did in combat, and hell, it lasted then too. Also, the gas port leakage that some people have occur, what are my chances of having that happen? Should I use HB weld, wire, an O-ring, or something else to keep that from happening? Or are my chances pretty low since I dont fire grenades off of it, i hardly mess with that area, and i use non-corrosive ammo? Thanks again, you guys are great.

 

[mainmech48]

Even on the most pristine SKS, some gas is going to escape from at least a couple of points. Production tolerances are generous, in the interests of efficient production by relatively unsophisticated tooling and labor, as well as continued reliability under field conditions. The system was never designed to be more than nominally "gas tight", as by design it gets much-more-than-enough volume and pressure to do its job, even after considerable wear.

Common areas where small amounts of gas escapes are at the gas block/barrel juncture, and the tube/block interface. The bulk of the gas is vented by the two ports in the tube when the piston completes its stroke. It is absolutely normal to see some evidence of gas "leakage" around these points.

I wouldn't worry about it. As long as you keep up the routine maintenance, you're very unlikely to be able to shoot it enough to wear it out, and be able to spot most any impending trouble long before it gets to the point of part failure.