Bore Solvent/Cleaner

[Old Grumpy]

I'm interested in what you have had good luck with. For years I used Hoppe's #9 and had acceptable results. Last time the bottle ran dry I picked up another brand to try. There are thousands on the market with each one claiming to be the best.

Last time I used the cleaning kit I was not happy with the amount of dirt seemingly left after numerous patches had been run through the bore. I had shot several hundred rounds using various charges of 2400, W231, Titegroup, and Unique. The charges went from extra light to some real magnum rounds. So the pistols were very dirty and had lots of carbon built up. I would dip a patch into the solvent cap to soak up some cleaner. I would then run the patch into the bore very slowly. The first patch turned almost black. The bore was then scrubbed with a copper/bronze bore brush. Lastly a second clean patch was run into the bore with a little more cleaner on it. I then take clean dry patches and run them through the bore, hopefully until they come out clean. problem was they were still coming out "dirty" after more than 10 dry patches.

Upon observation the patches did not show any flakes or solids, just a "dirty stain". I believe the solvent/cleaner was just not cutting the grime.

What are the better solvents out there? I shoot mostly cast loads but I do use enough jacketed rounds to use a copper cleaner every now and then.

Will I get better performance out of a solvent/cleaner only or should I look for a cleaner/lubricant? I lubricate my weapons with high quality lubricants so having a cleaner with lubricating properties is not a requirement.

Am I expecting too much from my cleaner? Should it take a dozen patches or more to get one to come out clean (after a bore brush and solvent soaked patch)?


Grumpy

 

[rcmodel]

I've used nothing but Hoppes #9 for over 50 years and see no reason to switch now.

I do really like Pro-Shot 1-Step Cleaner & Lube for after cast bullets & revolvers, as it cuts carbon and grunge better then anything else I have used.

But I haven't been able to find it locally for a couple of years.

http://www.proshotproducts.com/8-oz-1-Step-SolventLube_p_609.html

But

 

[Rule3]

Are you shooting lead or fmj bullets? Edit I see you are using both, shooting fmj over lead bullets doesn't remove traces of the lead, it can make it worse.

Hoppes #9 is not the same solvent as it was years ago. It has less of the "good" chemicals in it. They were removed for what ever hazards.

I still use it but to be honest, straight kerosene would probably work just as well for carbon cleaning. None of the brands of solvents will remove lead and only 2 will do a good job on copper in rifles.

That said, I still use Hoppes for cleaning and then follow up with Break Free CLP as a lube.

Lead removal requires a new bore brush and some elbow grease. There is a thread on using the chore boy scrubbing pads wrapped on a old bore brush. This works well and not expensive like a Lewis Lead remover

Solvent, lube, grease threads are all snake oil!

Any name brand product and some homemade ones work just fine. Folks neglect to change their bore brushes enough or think a bore snake is all they need.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

Ed's Red

 

[GJSchulze]

I've found that soaking my handgun barrels in Hoppes over night gets them cleaner than any scrubbing. I do a preliminary cleaning with Hoppes and bore brush to get any loose stuff out and then immerse them in Hoppes. I have a 6 inch narrow bottle I use. An olive jar would work. I reuse the solution and won't change it until it stops working.

I started doing this because, like you, no matter how many patches I used they kept coming out black or I could still see crud in the corners of the grooves.

 

[carbine85]

I use multiple cleaners each time I clean including #9. It seems like each cleaner cleans a little differently then another. I use wipe-out for copper fouling. Hoppes #9 is old school and times have changed. You need multiple cleaners on hand.

 

[Glock Doctor]

I used Hoppe's #9 for a good 25 years; and I had plenty of reasons to change to something better; one, in fact, is in the kitchen right now! Seriously, though, I'm very well known for keeping my personal weapons in absolutely spotless condition. What do I like?

I very much like: Flitz, Simichrome, and Iosso metal cleaning polishes. All of these products contain exactly the same chemicals that are found in, 'Lead Away' cloths; AND they will definitely, 'get the lead out' without a great deal of either soaking (Which you, occasionally, have to do with Hoppe's #9.) or excessive bore scrubbing.

I, also, like both Ballistol, and Break-Free CLP; but each of these cleaning products works better if you allow the bore to soak for at least 3 or 4 hours, or ideally overnight, before you start cleaning.

After the bore is clean, smooth, and shining I prefer to use Sentry Solution's, 'Smooth Kote' as a bore treatment. It's made of, 'passivated' molybdenum disulfide and won't become hygroscopic below 1,200 degrees Fahrenheit, (or until AFTER the gun has been fired). So, if you clean your guns fairly soon after using them, (same day) you'll never have a problem.

Nothing ever sticks to a, 'Smooth Kote' treated bore; and, after firing the gun, the bore will quickly brush out with very little effort on your part. I've carried a, 'Smooth Kote' treated bore for as long as 4 months and in all sorts of weather without any moisture problems - So, the usual precautions against the use of regular molybdenum disulfide do NOT apply to, 'Smooth Kote'. (Navy SEALS use it!)

Lately I've been polishing the entire exterior of my Glock pistols with, 'FrogLube' PASTE. (Navy SEALS use this product, too.) If you heat the metal before hand, or use a hot air hairdryer while you're applying it, 'FrogLube' puts a very nice, deep, durable, and completely waterproof shine on both metal AND plastic.

I understand that, 'FrogLube' is, also, a bore cleaner; but with the supply of gun cleaning chemicals I have on my workbench, right now, it's going to be many months before I find out; and, although, 'FrogLube' coats metal in the same way that, 'Smooth Kote' does I doubt I'll use it inside a bore instead of the excellent gun cleaning products I'm presently involved with. 'FrogLube' is best used in paste form; and it does NOT get along well with petroleum-based gun cleaning products - Which is the reason, 'Why' I use it separately from everything else.

One thing I noticed in your post is that you're cleaning gun bores in the same way that I did for many years, (and, in fact, all the way back to high school). There really are better ways to clean guns, and better products to use than a lot of us older shooters have been so used to using. I've just named a few of them for you; and there ARE others.

 

[LeonCarr]

Ed's Red for general cleaning

Mobil 1 for lubrication

They work as good or better that anything else I have tried, and are much cheaper than the "magic" potions sold in the 4 ounce bottles for bunches of money.

One of my favorite websites with recipes for making your own: www.frfrogspad.com READ THE WARNINGS

Just my .02,
LeonCarr

 

[teetertotter]

Kano Kroil then Shooters Choice. For maintaining mechanisms either Kano Microil spray can or Mobil 1 synthetic transmission fluid. I use the worm patch and pull through brass brush.

I use Aquila Match Rifle Ammo w/o any loss in accuracy after approx. 2000 rounds, but clean anyway. The CZ gets cleaned April and October, and the 39a, every October after about 500 rounds over a years time.

 

[brickeyee]

Kroil and Shooters Choice.

Buy each buy the gallon to save some money.

Still works on the stainless bench rest grade varmint rifles just fine.

If I do mamnage4 to copper up a barrel, Sweet's 7.62 and then some 90% Isopropyl Alcohol to makes sure it is all removed.

 

[Goju]

I have tried many products and there is no point of being a fanboy of a product line, as I only desire to use whatever works best.
All of my shooting involves shooting jacketed or plated bullets, and I have used Hoppes #9, Breakfree CLP, Gunzilla, MPro 7, Ballistol, Kroil, Weaponshield, Bore Tech, Shooters Choice, Montana Extreme.
I personally reject the notion of using a CLP product as a primary maintainence product, as I feel they really fall into the category of jack of all trades - master of none. Gunzilla and MPro7 perform almost identically, and while very good solvents, they are poor to mediocre lubes and protectants. Breakfree is a great protectant, but poor cleaner and a mediocre lube etc, etc.
But to get back on point, the solvent I have settled on at the moment is Boretech Eliminator. For my shooting, it has performed easily the best.