Boresighter: Laser or Banner

[SVC]

Hi,
I am about to purchase a boresighter and it is overwhelming the models available.

Seems like there are laser ones (either fits in chamber or with arbors) or something like the Bushnell Banner Boresighter model 743333.

My question is: what are the pros and cons of each (laser vs banner)?

I presume with laser one, it will be hard to see the dot on 100 yards?

Thanks,
S.

 

[Savage99]

I have used the Bushnell boresighter for a while in my workshop. It's easy to use and works well.

I have not seen or used the laser type.

 

[longknife12]

Several years ago, two Secret Service guys showed up over at my gun club.
They had a couple of 308 sniper rigs with them....wanted to pop a couple of live rounds through them, They had 'been checked the day before by laser'. Scary part.....this was an operational unit!
I had to dig my Bushnell out to even get one on paper at 100yds. I'll stick with my ole arbor unit!
Dan

 

[wally]

I'd wager none of them would be visible at 100 yards in anything approaching normal daylight.

These IMHO are best used in a work shop to set the optic and the bore parallel which should get you on the paper for the first shot. If the optic is 1.5" high set the laser dot ~1.5" low of the reticle, aim for your first shot high based on this and the range & ballistics of the round. Don't over think it, the fit of the bore-sighter is not all that.

 

[esque]

The chamber type eat batteries
and do not have a on off switch.
I use the Bushnell with the arbors

 

[desidog]

I lost it; but i had a laser that went into the chamber... what i would do was insert it, with the gun in a vise, and mark where the laser was on the far wall, then carefully eject the laser and insert it 180 degrees rotated, and mark that spot on the wall. Then, draw a line between the two marks, find the center, and that's your POI. Adjust sights accordingly...

 

[loose noose]

I've got three the Bushnell, the Bore mounted laser, and the Chamber laser. The one I've found to be the most accurate is the old style Bushnell. Like was already stated the laser can get you somewhat corrected with windage, however the elevation is a different matter.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

I have found a few bore mounted lasers at the range. Unfortunately, they were no good after a bullet had gone through them.

 

[morcey2]

I have found a few bore mounted lasers at the range. Unfortunately, they were no good after a bullet had gone through them.

I thought the bullet was supposed to follow the laser light? Isn't that what they are for?

 

[tuj]

I have found that the muzzle-end lasers (arbor) are more accurate than the chamber 'cartridge lasers'. My go to is the Bushnell.

I would use a laser at 25 to get on paper and work the zero conventionally from there.

 

[jmr40]

I've never found one that saved me even 1 round of ammo getting my rifle zeroed. I'd buy another box of ammo instead.

 

[Reloadron]

I have used the Bushnell boresighter for a while in my workshop. It's easy to use and works well.

I have not seen or used the laser type.

Yep, years ago when we had the shop people kept dragging in rifles and wanting them bore sighted. Bought a Bushnell Banner #74-3333 for about half of what they cost today and at $10 a pop the thing paid for itself real quick. Still have it and even made a bushing for doing the 50 caliber muzzle loaders popular in Ohio back then. Returned the rifles and told customers they would be on the paper at 100 yards and never had a rifle come back with a complaint.

Ron

 

[dagger dog]

I bought an arbor type laser, 39 bucks, placed 5 reflective trail marker tacks all touching making a total reflective target about 1" diameter, I set it out at 50 yds and do my bore sighting in the dark.

Have used it for scopes (with one tack) and steel sights, it puts me on target windage wise perfectly, verticle because of different calibers and bullet weights you have to work it out, but it only takes a few shots.

 

[d2wing]

I have both. I only use them at 25 yards or less to get on paper.

 

[Dr.Rob]

Glad to hear someone else thinks the cartridge style ones eat batteries.

It works but wow, batteries don't last very long at all.

 

[readyeddy]

The cartridge style lasers are ok if you use them the night before. I don't think they are bright enough for sunny days. Aim at something 50 yards, adjust scope accordingly, and you should be on paper at 50 yards. When done remove the battery.

Never tried the arbor type, but if they work, then it's probably more useful than the laser.

 

[dvdcrr]

Here's what I do anymore, I don't even use a boresighter. First remove the bolt or upper and bolt. Then get this pointing at your target and bagged up fairly solid. Your target should be a pie plate or 9" black circle. Lean down and look through the bore and nudge the rifle until the target is centered in the bore. Look through the scope. Adjust the crosshairs until the target is centered. You can do this at 100 yds. If done with any reasonable care you will be on paper with the first shot. This won't work for any rifle without a hole in the back, but heck most of those don't need a scope.

 

[quartermaster]

I have went thru and still have just about all the types. I would recommend getting the laser arbor type.

 

[GarySTL]

I borrowed one like the Bushnell mentioned and couldn't get it to work at all with open sights or a red dot. Never had any problem with the arbor type laser units.

 

[basicblur]

I have a LaserLyte - has saved me quite a bit of ammo / time / frustration over the years.

My neighbor's shed is 100 yards from my house - at about 2am (so I don't freak anybody out), I'll hang ye olde AR (or whatever I'm sighting in) out the window and zero on his shed.

My first shots at the range @ 100 yards are always on paper, and usually 2 to 3 inches off in either / both windage / elevation. I could get closer if I followed the laser's directions completely, but my method is fine to get me on paper with little / no wasted ammo.
(The laser has windage / elevation adjustments - you're supposed to rotate the laser in the barrel and observe the concentric circle the dot makes. After doing so, you can adjust both screws to dial it in, but to me, this step is more trouble than it's worth).

Years ago I carried one of the ARs by the local shop to get 'em zeroed using whatever the heck they use (Bushnell Collimator?), but their unit would not work on some ARs due to the height over bore - that's why I ended up getting the laser.

Quite a few friends have borrowed mine, and also use my technique of zeroing at night.

 

[Corn-Picker]

Here's what I do anymore, I don't even use a boresighter. First remove the bolt or upper and bolt. Then get this pointing at your target and bagged up fairly solid. Your target should be a pie plate or 9" black circle. Lean down and look through the bore and nudge the rifle until the target is centered in the bore. Look through the scope. Adjust the crosshairs until the target is centered. You can do this at 100 yds. If done with any reasonable care you will be on paper with the first shot. This won't work for any rifle without a hole in the back, but heck most of those don't need a scope.

This is what I do as well, it's always worked for me -- though you do need good eyes to make it work. I define "on paper" as being on the posterboard that I use when sighting in, so I won't say this technique will always get you on a 8.5x11 standard sheet of paper.