boresighting .308 @ 25 yards
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Maybe.
But it depends on how big your paper is.
I generally bore sight at 100 yards or so. The further away, the less chance of tiny errors creeping in.
Then I put one on paper at 25 and adjust accordingly, move to 50 and check again, before moving further out.
A 25 yard bore sight zero with a .308 will closely approximate a 200 yard zero.
But barrel harmonics, etc, doesn't guarantee the gun will shoot where the hole is looking.
rc
But it depends on how big your paper is.
I generally bore sight at 100 yards or so. The further away, the less chance of tiny errors creeping in.
Then I put one on paper at 25 and adjust accordingly, move to 50 and check again, before moving further out.
A 25 yard bore sight zero with a .308 will closely approximate a 200 yard zero.
But barrel harmonics, etc, doesn't guarantee the gun will shoot where the hole is looking.
rc
If it's a bolt action then bore sighting at a longer distance is pretty easy and you can dial in your scope without expending any ammo. I am old school and just don't trust those lazer gizmos even though they are probably a lot more accurate than I am. I have never done it with a 308 but with a 30-06 I will bore sight at around 75 yards and be pretty darn close. Close enough that I can dial it in with just a few rounds. I rarely shoot long distances so I want dead on at 100 yards.
It'll get you close but remember: The height of the scope above the bore will have a huge effect on the close range sight-in versus the long range "on the paper". Two identical rifles/scope combos are bore sited at 25 yards. One has the scope right on top of the barrel and the other has the scope raised. (See thru mounts) Both shoot perfect at 25 yards. But, at 100 yards (For example) the low mount shoots dead on but the high mount shoots high. That's because the high mounted scope has more "down angle" for the eye line to intersect the bore line at any given distance.
I bore sight my scoped rifles at about 25 yards and then do the "one shot zero" at 50 yards, then again at 100 yards and then again at whatever range I want that rifle sighted in for. The "one shot zero" is pretty easy to do if you have a solid stand or sand bags, etc..some way to make the rifle stay in place by itself without you holding it. Get into a good solid position. Use sand bags or a mount. Put the cross hairs exactly on the target center and fire one shot. Mount the rifle solidly in place...upright, steady, etc. It has to be steady without you holding it. Gently move it around until the cross hairs are back exactly on the target center. Then adjust the cross hairs to center over the bullet hole without moving the rifle. If you kept it all steady, the next bullet will hit directly under the cross hairs. (Assuming your scope is well mounted, the action isn't flopping around, there's not a tornado blowing the bullets around, etc)
Regarding laser bore sighters: I tried them and think they are more accurate than bore sighting. The big problem that I have with them, is that I can't see the danged laser red dot in the bright light! So, I quit using them for bore sighting. On the other hand, I did find a very good use for them. After getting back from a day at the range, I take my newly sighted in rifle(s) and set it up on a stand. I use a grid pattern target set at the same height as the bore. I put the scope cross hairs perfectly on the target center and mark the target where the laser dot is showing. I tag the target with the date, rifle, scope, distance, etc. and file it away. Then, if I want to check the scope/rifle sighting at any time, I use that target. It's handy if you remove the scope, etc. I have checked it versus live fire and it's within a few inches at 100 yards. (Site in the rifle, laser bore sight and mark the grid pattern target, remove/reinstall the scope, alter the cross hair settings, etc., laser sight it with the grid pattern target and live fire it at 100 yards) Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
Throw the bore sight tool in the trash. Look through the bore of your rifle at a target at 50 yards. Adjust the scope until they are the same. Fire 1 shot at 50 yards. It will be withing 2-3" of the bull. Make adjustments, remember that each click on most scopes is 1/8" at 50 yards. Fire 1 shot at 100 yards. Adjust if nececessary.
You will fire 2 shots and be zeroed at 100 yards with no tools needed. Shots 3-5 will be your first 3 shot group. I my fine tune some, then I move to 200 yards and repeat.
These are the 50 yard targets with the 1st shots fired with last 3 scopes I zeroed. A bore sight tool will not get you this close for the 1st shot.
You will fire 2 shots and be zeroed at 100 yards with no tools needed. Shots 3-5 will be your first 3 shot group. I my fine tune some, then I move to 200 yards and repeat.
These are the 50 yard targets with the 1st shots fired with last 3 scopes I zeroed. A bore sight tool will not get you this close for the 1st shot.
Sav .250
Member
Do some more home work on the subject. That`s the only way to learn about stuff.
Tommy Medlin
Member
I don't know, I've had some closer than that with a laser .Throw the bore sight tool in the trash. Look through the bore of your rifle at a target at 50 yards. Adjust the scope until they are the same. Fire 1 shot at 50 yards. It will be withing 2-3" of the bull. Make adjustments, remember that each click on most scopes is 1/8" at 50 yards. Fire 1 shot at 100 yards. Adjust if nececessary.
You will fire 2 shots and be zeroed at 100 yards with no tools needed. Shots 3-5 will be your first 3 shot group. I my fine tune some, then I move to 200 yards and repeat.
These are the 50 yard targets with the 1st shots fired with last 3 scopes I zeroed. A bore sight tool will not get you this close for the 1st shot.
ironworkerwill
Member
JMR40 is dead on! The only time you'll need some sort of gadget is when you can't look through the bore. Put the rifle on a good sand bag, remove the bolt, remove the adjustment caps, and I look for a fixed object as far off as I can centering it in the bore. Then make the cross hairs go to that point without moving the gun.
I am a crappy shot when shooting targets so I always use a gun vise to take out the human error component. I boresite, with a bolt action, at approximately 75 yards and fire one shot to make sure I am on paper and I virtually always am. I then back up to a defined 100 yard spot and get close to bullseye using cheap ammo before switching to the $2 a round hunting ammo. Sometimes there is a pretty big difference in the POI between a Winchester $15 per box ammo and my hunting ammo. Once I am on I fire 3 shots and expect all of them to be within 2" of the bullseye. I do not back up to 200 yards nor do I site in 2" high because I haven't taken a shot at a deer over 100 yards in 15 years.
No need to bore sight at 25 yards, unless you have a crooked scope mount or a used scope someone ran all the way up/down/sideways. Shoot an 8 by 11 at a 25 yard target, adjust, move to 50, adjust, move to 100. Then move further if you are sighting in further out.
Or bore sight at 100 looking through the bore if applicable. This takes a little practice, but is fairly easy.
Or bore sight at 100 looking through the bore if applicable. This takes a little practice, but is fairly easy.
Yellow Box
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Ive found my laser bore sight, which is a multi caliber type it uses plastic wedges to fill the barrel
if you spin the laser when the rifle is in a permantely locked down position the laser is not 100% centered, at least my cheap one
Plus the laser isnt a perfect circle, but every tiny laser I have is not a perfect circle either
Ive used it for many years so I know if I keep the laser in the same position, power dial facing up it will be super close
Some people may not be able to look through the barrel to bore sight by eye, depending on the weapon
Some may take months to get to a range and if your like me you want at least a close enough zero until you get it to the range just incase you ever need to use it
As for using the laser outside
well I have a super easy fix
Either buy stick on reflectors or reflective tape and aim at that
and the laser is super visible during the day
And if you can hide good enough, you can do your 100 yards out a window or at a car down the street aim at the reflectors or most cars now have reflective license plates
Of course use discretion when doing that
Ive also found power pole transformers have reflective number tape on them too, so thats something easier to aim at even blocks away as your aiming up less chance someone will see the laser or even use far away street signs
The laser will be pretty large when shining on a reflector, but just center in the middle as good as you can
Now you turned that $15 laser into something very useful you can use during the day, at the range or at home
but boresight by eye works way better then the laser if your weapon is capable of doing that
I usually use both then confirm when at a range
Saves alot of ammo that way
if you spin the laser when the rifle is in a permantely locked down position the laser is not 100% centered, at least my cheap one
Plus the laser isnt a perfect circle, but every tiny laser I have is not a perfect circle either
Ive used it for many years so I know if I keep the laser in the same position, power dial facing up it will be super close
Some people may not be able to look through the barrel to bore sight by eye, depending on the weapon
Some may take months to get to a range and if your like me you want at least a close enough zero until you get it to the range just incase you ever need to use it
As for using the laser outside
well I have a super easy fix
Either buy stick on reflectors or reflective tape and aim at that
and the laser is super visible during the day
And if you can hide good enough, you can do your 100 yards out a window or at a car down the street aim at the reflectors or most cars now have reflective license plates
Of course use discretion when doing that
Ive also found power pole transformers have reflective number tape on them too, so thats something easier to aim at even blocks away as your aiming up less chance someone will see the laser or even use far away street signs
The laser will be pretty large when shining on a reflector, but just center in the middle as good as you can
Now you turned that $15 laser into something very useful you can use during the day, at the range or at home
but boresight by eye works way better then the laser if your weapon is capable of doing that
I usually use both then confirm when at a range
Saves alot of ammo that way
Inebriated
Member
I'm with JMR. Look down the bore at 25-50 yards, adjust the scope, and you'll be on paper. I've been using that method for as long as I can remember.
FLIGHT762
Member
For the looking through bore method of bore sighting, I've found that found using an object no closer than 50 yards (100 yards preferred by me) was more accurate than using the 25 yard or closer method for putting a shot on paper at 100 yards.. I had too much error with the 25 yard - distance.
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