bow hunters I need some help

Status
Not open for further replies.

phantomak47

Member
Joined
May 27, 2003
Messages
1,178
Location
Texas
I am thinking about trying bowhunting this year since I just joined a huge 3000+ acre club and during bow season there is only one other bow hunter.

I was thinking about a renagade , but I cant see to find an online archery shop that sells them.

Other than that I found that cabelas has a PSE set up for 300.00 which is the price range I want to stay in since its a kit with everything. Does anyone know about PSE bows?Are they any good? I am really trying to get in a mid range bow and then buy a top of the line later if I get into bow hunting. Also what is the standard broadhead grain weight and what is best broad heads or mechanicals? thanks
 
Whatever bow you get you should have a place to go and get "fitted" for it. I got a Patriot off a forum, and it works great, but it would be nice to have some support for it.

I use Muzzy broadheads, 100 grain. The weight will be dependant on the weight of your bow and what you are hunting, but it will take care of 90%+ of your hunting needs.

Have fun and post pics!
 
If you are new to archery get yourself to a shop and get properly fitted.
The little more you spend will save you money aggravation in the long run.
I use the 100gr 3-blade muzzy also with excellent results. have also used the 90gr 4-blade. I havent used the mechanicals- havent seen a reason to add more moving parts but some folks swear by em.
I shoot a Mathews Legacy (>2x your price bracket) with a wisker biquit rest, Impact fiber optic sight, alpine quiver, and gold tip carbon arrows with a scott rino release. Deadly in my hands :D
Been bowhunting for about 25 years.
 
Mechanical broadheads are utter POS. Not only can the ridiculously oversize "outrigger" folding blades impede penetration, but imagine you're hunting in freezing weather and water gets on the head and freezes. Will the blades deploy if so? I'm sure the manufacturers claim they will, but you should see what we claim our product will do where I work!:D
 
Yep, the only way for a new shooter is to go to a bow shop. It's amazing how heavy some bows can be. So you need to pick one that feels right. The arrows need to be cut to your length, pick the colour of fletching you want and the colour of nock. Get the day glow green. They stand out really well in grass. There needs to be a nocking point put on the string too.
There are some rules important to compounds too. The first and most important is never dry fire it. The wheels and string can go flying in all directions. Then don't let anyone whose draw is longer than your's pull your bow. It can bugger up thebow. Practice is important. You use muscles shooting a bow that you use for nothing else, so don't try and shoot all day your first time out. Shoot until you can hit a 9" pie plate every time at 10, 20, 30 and 40 yards. If you're going to use a tree stand, you need to practice shooting from it. Bend at the waist not the shoulder. Don't just point the bow down. It doesn't work. And remember that arrows penetrate better than a .30-06 so be sure of your back stop. That and arrows are expensive. Even the wooden ones I use most(not hunting) are $6 a pop.
I use Thunderhead 125 grain broad heads. My thinking was that since the target points are also 125 grains, it would be a good idea to use the same weight broadheads.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top