WalkerCountyBoy
Member
What kind of hunting bows do you use?
Bow?
- Thread starter WalkerCountyBoy
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Kingcreek
Member
I get the most pleasure hunting with an Osage Orange longbow and cedar shafts that I made myself. I kill more deer with a Mathews SoloCam and carbon arrows.
MCgunner
Member
I'm hunting with a Hoyt compound. I replaced my old recurve with a new PSE Kingfisher recurve and have been out with it gar fishing with it a couple of times now. I like recurves, but I can hit better, a little farther out, with a compound. I just enjoy shooting them, truth be told. Don't have to go to the range. My range is just out the door. 
WalkerCountyBoy
Member
Recurve
what would be a good recurve to start out with?
what would be a good recurve to start out with?
JTW Jr.
Member
Hoyt Avenger compound here...
as far as a starting recurve , what price range did you have in mind ?
Got a Hoyt GameMasterII for my oldest son a couple years ago , its a darn nice bow , but perhaps a bit pricey for a starter bow.
You looking for a take down recurve ?
as far as a starting recurve , what price range did you have in mind ?
Got a Hoyt GameMasterII for my oldest son a couple years ago , its a darn nice bow , but perhaps a bit pricey for a starter bow.
You looking for a take down recurve ?
wheelgunslinger
Member
A good recurve to start out with will have the proper overall length for your body including your torso length and wingspan as well as your draw length.
Fitting a recurve is rather like being fitted for a suit. Lots of people wear suits off the rack. Some get lucky, but the majority look like a soup sandwich.
It's the same way with recurves. To get the right one, you'll need to be fitted.
Get a bow with a much lower draw weight than you think you can "handle" since shooting a recurve takes more physical strength than shooting a compound bow. Holding it at full draw, you'll need to be able to go through your list of requirements for making a clean shot without shaking or trembling.
Buying one with the idea that you'll "work up to it" is a good way to develop poor form and bad shooting habits. Form is everything with shooting a recurve, so poor form is a good way to be a mediocre archer.
Once you learn to shoot cleanly with your first recurve, you'll be able to shoot any bow better including compounds. You can work your way up to a bow with a heavier draw weight if you like.
I've been shooting recurves for about 25 years now. I'm starting to like them.
As for brands, Martin Archery has some very good recurves in their lineup. For mass produced bows, they're very good and priced very reasonably.
Fitting a recurve is rather like being fitted for a suit. Lots of people wear suits off the rack. Some get lucky, but the majority look like a soup sandwich.
It's the same way with recurves. To get the right one, you'll need to be fitted.
Get a bow with a much lower draw weight than you think you can "handle" since shooting a recurve takes more physical strength than shooting a compound bow. Holding it at full draw, you'll need to be able to go through your list of requirements for making a clean shot without shaking or trembling.
Buying one with the idea that you'll "work up to it" is a good way to develop poor form and bad shooting habits. Form is everything with shooting a recurve, so poor form is a good way to be a mediocre archer.
Once you learn to shoot cleanly with your first recurve, you'll be able to shoot any bow better including compounds. You can work your way up to a bow with a heavier draw weight if you like.
I've been shooting recurves for about 25 years now. I'm starting to like them.
As for brands, Martin Archery has some very good recurves in their lineup. For mass produced bows, they're very good and priced very reasonably.
I hunt with longbows and recurves. Traditional archery is FUN! Starter bows made in the 1970's can be obtained from that big auction site. Shakespeare and Ben Pearson (and some Browning) bows go cheaper than Bears. $100 including shipping is quite doable if you're not too impatient. There are a lot of 52" bows out there, but they are for experts, not beginers (they are more sensitive to errors in shooting form). 58" to 62" is a good length to start with and a draw weight of about 40-45 lbs at YOUR draw length to start. These $100 bows can usually be resold for about what you have into them if you decide to move up in weight or get a different bow (or decide traditional shooting is not for you). Best to get a bow to match your dominant eye if it is not the same as your dominant hand.
eldiabloe1
Member
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- Jan 8, 2008
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I have an old Bear Kodiak and enjoy the challenges presented by going traditional. I can keep them all on a pie plate at 25 yrds which is about the furthest I will take a shot. I can stack a break arrows at that range with my brother inlaws Mathews Solo Cam thing but it just isn't the same. I also hunt black powder with a traditional Hawkins vs an inline for the same reason.
tribbles
Member
I still shoot a mid 80's Martin Lynx Magnum, 55# draw, 50% letoff. It's a far cry from today's bow tech but it gets the job done.
As for recurves, no idea. The only experience I have is with an old tiny Bear recurve belonging to a friend of my brother - we used to shoot arrows straight up in the air and see how close the arrows would land to us without us moving. (God watches out for dumb kids sometimes.)
As for recurves, no idea. The only experience I have is with an old tiny Bear recurve belonging to a friend of my brother - we used to shoot arrows straight up in the air and see how close the arrows would land to us without us moving. (God watches out for dumb kids sometimes.)
Sunray
Member
"...to start out with?..." Go to an archery shop, not a general hunting shop, and get fitted. Doesn't matter what kind of bow, it and the arrows must fit you. Don't buy a bow of a draw weight that is more than the weight you can easily lift. IE: if you can't easily lift 50 pounds, you won't be able to shoot a bow of that draw weight either.
Look in your local hunting regs for legal minimum draw weight.
Be prepared for 'sticker shock' too. A compound can go to $800 plus. You don't have to part with that much for a good bow though, but expect $300 plus.
Hunting arrows run $10 to $15 each.
You need to do upper body exercise too. Shooting any bow uses muscles you use for nothing else. Back and shoulder, not your arms.
Look in your local hunting regs for legal minimum draw weight.
Be prepared for 'sticker shock' too. A compound can go to $800 plus. You don't have to part with that much for a good bow though, but expect $300 plus.
Hunting arrows run $10 to $15 each.
You need to do upper body exercise too. Shooting any bow uses muscles you use for nothing else. Back and shoulder, not your arms.
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