BP revolver for the gun smithing imparied

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trog

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Been thinking about a BP revolver maybe a 1851 or 1860. Is this something I can get into without employing a full time gun smith, or should I stick with my long guns. I know no one that shoots BP revolvers so I would be on my own. Dont want to buy something that will need to be reworked before I can shoot it. Also dont want to spend huge amounts of $ on something that might not be something I enjoy. Any opinoins on a trouble free BP revolver for a newbie?
Also, is JSG powder safe to use in BP revolvers?
 
Most folks will recommend a Pietta made 1858 New Army or the shorty version to newbies. Its a bit more straightforward than the open tops where you have to deal with THE WEDGE. You are in luck. They are on sale and shipping is only $5 right now at Cabelas. I recommend avoiding the brass frame revolvers. They can't take the pressure of higher power loads as well as the steel framed models.

JSG is a black powder substitute. It can be used. I've never used it but I've read enough about it that I will avoid it unless there just isn't anything else available. My powder choice are, in order: (1) real black powder, (2) Triple 7, (3) Pyrodex.

This is JMHO and we all know what those are like.
 
Gun Smithing for the Impaired

It's sorta luck of the draw when it comes to owning a Black Powder Replica Revolver, like cars and computers.

There are Colt People and Remington People and some of us among the addicted crowd who own them both, plus a few others. If you are impaired then go with the Remington per ClemBerts advice. Once you get the hang of the disassembly and reassembly part and just gotta have a Colt... go for it.

I own several that the wedge will pop right out of by using a finger or the butt of a screw driver. There are others that take a hammer and a brass pin. But I have a Pietta 1851 Colt Navy that either the legendary gorilla or the previous owner made a mess of with shoving the wedge in a bit too far. I won't belabor you with the details but it was an education.

Either way welcome to the party.
 
My 1858 Remington New Army revolvers from Cabelas were ready to go as soon as they arrived, Except for the normal needing to be cleaned of the rust preventive oil prior to shooting.
My 8" version has the most perfect timing you could ask for.
 
I have a Pietta 1858 Remington (Cabela's) that I now have to shoot every time out. It was my first BP gun & I had pretty much zero knowledge on powder, loads or anything else.

The first time out I had to detail strip it to get it clean. (Springs, pins, everything but the barrel & front sight had to come off. I clean it right away now) It came apart and went back together easily. It was stripped, cleaned & reassembled in an hour with no directions. It still shoots just fine.
 
trog said:
Also, is JSG powder safe to use in BP revolvers?

JSG is much like it's twin APP, and I will only buy the 3F. That's because the 2F is very chunky. They're a little weaker than most other powders, so I load ~5 extra grains of 3F, then compress it really firm and get good results. And it cleans up very easily too.
 
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my original 1858 Remington N.A. revolver missing most of it's parts

Hi just joined today

My 1860 Colt 44 cal. BP revolver from Cabela's works fine, my problem is my real 1858 Remington N.A. 44 cal. revolver is missing most all it's parts

not sure if any one here had an original gun with missing parts and found replacement parts
what i have is a attached barrel to the frame & a Cabela's cylinder i bought 10? years ago, that's it!

I bought the gun many years ago in a small shop in South Dakota in this condition it's showed it's age but you could read most everything
it had a wooden cylinder i think it was made into a toy gun there was a pawn slip dated 1931

on Cablea's site i found a Pietta Replacement Pistol Parts Kit, i need every piece
plus a trigger guard all the screws basically everything

Anyone know if the parts will interchange or if a different brand will work
once the gun is completed do you think with the old barrel it would safe to fire or just hang on the wall
 
The Dixie Gun Works website clearly states that some of their reproduction Remington parts will fit the originals, including a new barrel. I don't know if it matters or not which Remington model that you have. But whether you want to fix it or not may depend on how much that you're willing to spend before proceeding to go forward with it.

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/default.php?cPath=22_94_324_325

There's also VTI Gun Parts:

http://www.vtigunparts.com/

And there are also outfits that specialize in selling some antique Remington parts that can be located using Google, but they will be more expensive.
Lastly, what remains of your gun can be sold as it is on an antique or regular gun auction website, or turned over to an antique gun dealer/appraiser or auction house for liquidation. That way you can let someone else worry about all of the costs and risks involved with either trying to simply fix or completely restore it, and whether or not either could even be completed successfully.

http://antiqueguns.com/
 
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Thanks

Thanks for the links you posted arcticap

I've had the gun so long buying parts over time will be the best plan to complete the gun

Also a good point, antique gun dealer/appraiser
my friend was a gun dealer, his friend has a gun shop not to far from me

I'll see what he says and go from there
 
For me, there is nothing more satisfying with shooting BP than figuring out a problem with my gun and fixing it myself.

I don't have a huge shop or a mechanic's training. All I have are some pliers, screwdrivers and small needle files. Really, if you do get a BP pistol, you should spend some time getting to know the innards of it. Not only does that help you understand how it works, but you can make the repairs when something breaks, as they usually do.

The two things that break the most are trigger springs and hand springs. Main Springs sometimes break, but they are rarer in breaking.

I bought an Uberti Colt replica that was hard to cycle. Turned out that the hand just needed a little filing to round a corner so it would fit better in the slot and rear of the cylinder. Now, no problem cocking and it is as tight as can be.

A little work, a little time, and one great gun. Also, if you fiddle with the innards of the gun, you are better prepared when cleaning it if you know how the parts match up, (which is exceedingly simple on most revolvers).

The Doc is out now. :cool:
 
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