Brand new Cimarron 1858 Navy doesn't want to stay cocked on a specific cylinder

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WeedWhacker

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Background: this is my first BP revolver, but my second single-action.

I've just unpacked a new Cimarron/Uberti repro Remington 1858 Navy and have been giving it the once-over. One potential problem has me concerned: if I cock the hammer with close to the minimum pressure required, most of the time, the hammer will lock back 100% positively. However, sometimes on one specific cylinder, the hammer will fall back to half-cock unless I bear down a bit more on the hammer *AFTER* the final third click is heard. Using "light" or normal pressure on the hammer at any other cylinder locks the hammer back 100%.

Noteworthy facts:

1. this still has the preservative gunk on (and likely inside) it
2. the hammer "problem" follows a specific chamber
3. it seems somewhat intermittent, but definitely distinct from other chambers

Is this something I should worry about before taking it out to shoot? Is this something worth sending back since it's still unfired/under warranty?
 
Your problem is cause by the hand - the part that revolves the cylinder. As the hand revolves the cylinder the cylinder bolt pops up and engages a notch in the cylinder to lock the chamber in line with the bore. Since the hand is attached to the hammer, and is blocked at the top under the cylinder ratchet, the hammer can't come back far enough to so the trigger can engage the full-cock notch on the hammer on that one chamber.

Clear as mud... ? :confused: :D

You have two ways too go. You can disassemble the revolver and take about .0003" off of the upper tip of the hand, or send it back to Cimarron for replacement or repair. They are a good outfit, and will take care of you one way or the other.

You should disassemble the revolver and clean out the shipping grease before you shoot it. But first be sure you have the proper screwdriver(s) and understand how to get the mainspring back into place.

Goto following link: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=223885
 
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Look on the pawl and see if there might be a machining burr on the rachet pattern on that particular chamber. I would think it is the pawl rather than the hand or it would do the same thing on all cylinders. The next thing to look at is the location of the bolt notch in the cylinder of that chamber and see if there are any marks or burrs there too.
 
While watching the movie,"The Good Bad and the Ugly", work the "cleaned" and "lubed" action every 10 seconds. Before the movie is over the action will break in some and be fine. I bet.:what:
 
Thank you for the ideas, folks! I'd taken the nipple out of the offending chamber so it was easy to keep track of which chamber was causing the problems. Then, I'd inspected the rear of the cylinder (pawl?) for any odd wear marks, burrs, holes, etc. Not finding anything there, I checked out the bolt and the bolt notch for the same, and there's certainly nothing obviously different from any other bolt notch.

Lastly, I'd felt up the hand, and it does seem to have a bit more of an edge on the top inside corner than I might expect. I didn't touch it with tools yet, but I'd gone along with rifle's suggestion by holding the trigger and working the hammer around to the "bad" chamber, then gently cocking the hammer to see if using the hand a bit will wear it down the the main body.

About a hundred cockings and one sore thumb later, it seems to be going away. If it slips off full cock again after this point, I'll ship it back rather than work on it myself (since it's still brand new).
 
Problem on one cylinder/chamber...

Howdy,

I had a similar issue with a spare cylinder acting up on only one particular chamber. Took a close look at the bolt notch and there was residue from the polishing compound/packing lube hiding in the corners. This kept the bolt/cylinder stop from popping up all the way into the notch recess. Caused a problem just like you described. Cleaned out the bolt notch really well and the problem disappeared.

Good Luck,

Slim
 
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