Brass shotshells in a modern SxS or O/U

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Mr. Mosin

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Simple, quick question. Is it safe to use smokeless powder in brass shotshells, if those shells are chambered in a modern, new production (or recent manufacture) shotgun, or should one stick to black powder in brass hulls ? Thanks in advance.
 
I don't see why it wouldn't be safe in a modern shotgun as long as you use a suitable powder for the gauge you are shooting/reloading for. Ballistic Products actually sells a manual for reloading brass shotgun shells

https://www.ballisticproducts.com/Reloading-Brass-Shotshells-manual-VanDenburg/productinfo/00MBRASS/
Cool. I was unaware of such. Thank you. I do have an interest in reloading w/ black powder as well, I was just curious about the safety of using smokeless. I was watching a video of some survival type fella on YouTube, and he recommended (this was for a muzzle loader) equivalent charges of both powder and shot, not to exceed... 70 grains, I think it was. Does this "match powder and shot charges" hold true with reloading black powder shotshells, or was this guy just a wacko ?
 
I've never reloaded any brass shotgun shells so I don't know. I suggest investing the $15 for the manual from Ballistic Products if you are serious about reloading brass shells. I would rather spend the money for the manual and be on the safe side.
 
I'll agree with getting a manual. It is best to be safe.

That said, I've dabbled with loading some brass .410 bore hulls from information gleaned from the internet. I shot them in my Mossberg 500. They worked although I kind of remember they did not cycle well through the magazine. This would not be a problem with a side by side or an over/under.

It was a fun project.

I might have to resurrect the project for shells for my Bond Arms derringer.
 
You will have to use nitro cards and fiber wadding to do it as standard plastic wads will not seal well enough. The Balistic Products info and componant resources are worth their weight in gold IMO. I reload brass 410, mostly with buckshot loads and they are every bit as good as factory. I also used 444 marlin brass at first but the rims are smaller and some shotguns were not able to eject them.
CAS shooters use 12 ga brass hulls for their sport and there is a fair amount of info for you if you google it.
 
Equal by volume shot and powder are referred to as “square loads”. The down side of brass IMO is how to finish them. The traditional methods of card and some sort of adhesive wont work in repeaters I’m told. I do have a roll crimper, Russian made, that I use on my black powder paper shells but haven’t tried it on brass, don’t know if that would work.
I’ve an old Remington S/S Id like to continue working/playing with this summer current conditions permitting.

Comment added: In black powder loads.
 
I know that guys that reload brass 410 shells on a metallic reloader along with reloading 303 shells for their Indian muskets use Elmers Glue to hold the shot card in.
 
I have a few folks who reload brass shells with smokeless; one had his custom made (3" 16 gauge) and they were machine turned. He uses felt wads and overshot cards.
 
Last time I looked some 10 gage wads fit the 12 gage brass shells. This was for MagTech as opposed to some brass shells currently available that are turned from brass rod. MagTech 12 gage brass shot shells are very thin walled cases.
 
I was just using another nitro card over the payload and sealing the top of the hull with low temp hot glue. I tried elmers and it worked but took a bit to dry. You can also use duco cement or an equivelant. In the 410 you can taper crimp the mouth with a 308 or 243 sizing die set to just bump into the shoulder.
 
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