Brass

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I've seen their loaded ammunition for sale (cheap), but this is the first time I've seen their components. http://www.gbwcartridge.com

Midsouth is not very cheap for me as they have fairly high shipping costs and I have to pay sales tax. But even without the tax you are looking at 12+ cents per case. I'd buy processed range brass for 2 cents/round off this forum or just buy and shoot factory ammo as brass donors. Current pricing is only 18-20 cents/round for factory 9mm. It costs me a minimum of 10 cents/round to load (using plated bullets), producing 22 cents/round if I were to buy brass at 12 and load it.
 
You also need to look at the price. We are at $.10+ per round. I suspect almost everyone here has dropped an unnecessary $50 bill on a bar top once or twice.

That being said, I purchased similar no name new brass from Midsouth or Natchez in .223 (500 count). I am at 34 firings for 100 of the rounds and still going strong. I do anneal, though.
 
When I searched there was some reference to GBW being their 'custom' headstamp. Sounded to me like they don't manufacture the brass, either. But I'm not doubting the quality, just think it's pricey. Midsouth has a solid reputation so if you're good with the financial aspect there's no danger involved.
 
njsportsman wrote:
MidSouth shooters that they have brand new brass on sale. I never heard of them so,...
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I have dealt with Midsouth Shooters Supply for years. They're located in Clarksville, Tennessee, just around the corner from where I was living when I was at Ft. Campbell. They are not the cheapest, but they do stock a large and varied inventory, they ship promptly and the few times I have had a problem, they have always made it right.
 
Ditto for Midsouth being a solid retailer. They are a pleasure to deal with.

That said, I would never buy brass at retail. Forums, Facefarm, Armslist, classified postings at the range, etc, but never at retail.
 
So what I am getting is that the brass is probably ok but pricey. That is good to know because i did not get them yet. What is a good price for new brass and once fired brass or a good site to find good pricing? Right now i have loaded .45ACP and 556 and waiting for my 9mm dies. I am not a newbie but pretty close to one. Thanks
 
fotheringill said:
You also need to look at the price. We are at $.10+ per round. I suspect almost everyone here has dropped an unnecessary $50 bill on a bar top once or twice.

That being said, I purchased similar no name new brass from Midsouth or Natchez in .223 (500 count). I am at 34 firings for 100 of the rounds and still going strong. I do anneal, though.
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Holy crap 34 firings on a .223 case? That is incredible. What are you loading these cases with?
Dom
 
TheDomFather said:
Holy crap 34 firings on a .223 case? That is incredible. What are you loading these cases with?
Dom
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Loading either 22.7 Varget for 73 grain round or 22.1 Varget for 80 grain round. Both are Berger Target bullets. Savage F/TR with a 7 twist. I neck size only until it gets tight and then .002 shoulder with the Redding Competition shellholders. That is about every fifth firing.

Single round loading. I am sure an AR-15 or other gas gun will not do as long for the cases.
 
fotheringill said:
Loading either 22.7 Varget for 73 grain round or 22.1 Varget for 80 grain round. Both are Berger Target bullets. Savage F/TR with a 7 twist. I neck size only until it gets tight and then .002 shoulder with the Redding Competition shellholders. That is about every fifth firing.

Single round loading. I am sure an AR-15 or other gas gun will not do as long for the cases.
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Wow really impressive, I would love to pick your brain about neck sizing, I just got a savage BA 10 stealth evolution this weekend in 6.5 creedmor and wondering if I should start neck sizing which would be completely new to me. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Dom
 
When I was shooting Service Rifle several years ago, I would use new cases for my match ammunition. After 3 or 4 firings, before they wore out in the AR-15, I'd move them to my bolt rifles.

I'd get many more cycles from the cases when shot in a bolt gun, still full length sizing. Not to the level of fotheringill's case life but still an adequate increase in case life.

The main problem was, I'd generate way more cases for the bolt guns than I could consume in them.:)
 
cfullgraf said:
When I was shooting Service Rifle several years ago, I would use new cases for my match ammunition. After 3 or 4 firings, before they wore out in the AR-15, I'd move them to my bolt rifles.

I'd get many more cycles from the cases when shot in a bolt gun, still full length sizing. Not to the level of fotheringill's case life but still an adequate increase in case life.

The main problem was, I'd generate way more cases for the bolt guns than I could consume in them.:)
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I can see your point. I am getting ejector marks on my brass in my Sig MCX AR15, normally this would be signs of pressure however, Primers look good and no flattening so I have a feeling its just my ejector. I think this will wear the brass faster!
 
Dom-

Interesting discussion to have.

I check runout with the 21st Century thingy with the wheel and the flippy type needle. BTW, I also found the wheel to be superfluous. Two fingers on the case and rolling it slowly works just fine, as well.

I have two different neck sizers. One is the Redding Competition bushing neck sizer which cost a lot of money. On a lark, I purchased the Lee collet neck sizer for $20-25, I forget the exact price.. What I found was that the cases neck sized with the Lee had less runout than the Redding. I don't know why or how but the seating die I use for each is the Redding Competition seating die. The trick with the Lee die setup is the key. See #19 in the linked thread http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/lee-collet-die-experience.3885018/ If that is blocked by THR, please pm me.

Also- Redding bushing dies will size a max of about 1/2 of the neck, at best. The Lee will size further down the neck.
 
I thought something was wrong, too, until I called Redding. I have the Competition Neck Sizing bushing die.
 
ATLDave said:
If I am buying new pistol brass, I need a very, very good reason not to just order Starline. As in a material price drop versus them.
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Ditto that, or one of the big name brands... I like WW and RP, personally, although as I turn my brass over more and more Starline is creeping in.

The one cartridge I don't buy new brass for is 9mm. Why? Because I typically shoot indoors (my EDC is a 9mm, so I practice as much as I can...) and that means I lose about 50% of my brass. My method there is to just buy loaded ammo and recover what I can. OP, you might want to think about that... any savings you might realize by buying new brass to handload will disappear if you lose half your brass every time you shoot... but that all depends on where you shoot and the likelihood of recovering your brass.
 
I use nothing but range brass for 9mm.
I don't track the number of reloads on it either.
It either gets lost or if it splits, gets loose primer pockets, or no neck tension it goes in the scrap bucket.
Haven't tossed many in the scrap bucket.
You should be able to pick up decent used 9mm brass pretty cheap.
 
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