jrhines
Member
I need to remove a barrel from a BCM RECCE-4. Anyone know if they are Loctite-ed in place?
Thanks in advance...
JR
Thanks in advance...
JR
Bravo Company Barrels, glued on??
- Thread starter jrhines
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I recently disassembled my new, unfired BCM lightweight 16" middy and had to use a 2' cheater bar on the barrel nut wrench to break it loose. They actually seem to have used some grease on the threads as is common when torquing during installation, but the torque was so high, i think my receiver sustained some damage during the takedown process. 
jrhines
Member
I contacted BCM...
and they are not put on with any thread locker products. When I removed the barrel it took an extension to break it free. The gas block set screws were secured with red LocTite, I had to heat them to break them free.
Just FYI for the record.
and they are not put on with any thread locker products. When I removed the barrel it took an extension to break it free. The gas block set screws were secured with red LocTite, I had to heat them to break them free.
Just FYI for the record.
Strykervet
member
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- Nov 16, 2010
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Too bad you didn't break 'em with a torque wrench to see how much they overdid it then. It doesn't take much. Shoot, when I build, I don't even use a torque wrench anymore after seeing how the SF gunsmith I knew repaired rifles. Basically, that gas tube dictates where it goes. When you get it snug, then when you go to tighten, the hole lines up. If you go to the next hole, you are almost guaranteed to over tighten. I've built several rifles this way and have had no problem from any of them.
I use grease, lithium or moly is what they recommend (I'd have to look that up, I currently use TW25B). You don't want it to seize, and bear in mind any grease on those threads will change how much torque is needed to line up the gas tube. I snug, then tighten to the very next hole I can line up after I get it real snug. If you can "feel" torque to any degree at all, you don't need the wrench after the first few times, it only gets in the way.
Over torquing can cause problems to say the least with the M4. You really don't want to overdo the flash hider either... That is worse. It can crush or warp the rifling right at the muzzle, just killing accuracy.
Finally, torque recommendations are from an engineering point of view, a way of keeping the end builders from over tightening fasteners. AAC says you only need to hand tighten their flash suppressors when using the Rocksett... But people would STILL call, saying that can't be true, and others would ignore it and tighten with a wrench. So they came out with torque specifications for this reason alone.
It wouldn't surprise me if the torque recommendations were added to the M4 barrel for the same reason. Also, the military is pretty anal, so NOT having torque specifications for a fastner is just out of the question. I've never seen anything that has threads and a manual in the army NOT have torque recommendations, come to think of it!
Sounds like they are trying to mitigate the number of returned uppers due to loose barrel nuts. I've seen it happen, it is more common than you'd think, and I'd say at least 2 in 100, maybe more, Colt M4 rifles that we got developed loose barrels after one year of service. Easy fix in the army, but expensive when fulfilling a warranty.
Also, if I remember right, the torque specification is a very wide range, almost silly... I mean, why have a torque specification with nearly a 40lb variance? Probably because the army wanted one. Torque specifications are usually pretty narrow, enough so that you NEED the wrench to hit the sweet spot.
This is why I like to build all my own stuff. I don't have problems with over tight stuff or things falling apart either. I also get MY choice of parts, and I'm pretty close to coming up with the "perfect" build (for me anyway).
Also like to mention, as cheap as uppers are, I had one that had a very fine bull barrel with a low round count. It was overtightened and wouldn't come off, even damaged the receiver trying. So I cut the receiver off to save the barrel...
I use grease, lithium or moly is what they recommend (I'd have to look that up, I currently use TW25B). You don't want it to seize, and bear in mind any grease on those threads will change how much torque is needed to line up the gas tube. I snug, then tighten to the very next hole I can line up after I get it real snug. If you can "feel" torque to any degree at all, you don't need the wrench after the first few times, it only gets in the way.
Over torquing can cause problems to say the least with the M4. You really don't want to overdo the flash hider either... That is worse. It can crush or warp the rifling right at the muzzle, just killing accuracy.
Finally, torque recommendations are from an engineering point of view, a way of keeping the end builders from over tightening fasteners. AAC says you only need to hand tighten their flash suppressors when using the Rocksett... But people would STILL call, saying that can't be true, and others would ignore it and tighten with a wrench. So they came out with torque specifications for this reason alone.
It wouldn't surprise me if the torque recommendations were added to the M4 barrel for the same reason. Also, the military is pretty anal, so NOT having torque specifications for a fastner is just out of the question. I've never seen anything that has threads and a manual in the army NOT have torque recommendations, come to think of it!
Sounds like they are trying to mitigate the number of returned uppers due to loose barrel nuts. I've seen it happen, it is more common than you'd think, and I'd say at least 2 in 100, maybe more, Colt M4 rifles that we got developed loose barrels after one year of service. Easy fix in the army, but expensive when fulfilling a warranty.
Also, if I remember right, the torque specification is a very wide range, almost silly... I mean, why have a torque specification with nearly a 40lb variance? Probably because the army wanted one. Torque specifications are usually pretty narrow, enough so that you NEED the wrench to hit the sweet spot.
This is why I like to build all my own stuff. I don't have problems with over tight stuff or things falling apart either. I also get MY choice of parts, and I'm pretty close to coming up with the "perfect" build (for me anyway).
Also like to mention, as cheap as uppers are, I had one that had a very fine bull barrel with a low round count. It was overtightened and wouldn't come off, even damaged the receiver trying. So I cut the receiver off to save the barrel...
A properly assembled AR-15 (per mil-spec) does not have any thread-locking compound on the nut. This compound does nothing but become a lubricant at high temperatures, and make disassembly a pain in the rear. The moly-grease is the appropriate material to be applied to the threads.
crossrhodes
Member
Some times it's an indicator that they are pushing a lot of guns out the door and they have some new hires on the line to keep up with the work load. I've seen it before in other manufacturing facilities, especially in the metal cutting tool industry. I have to concur with Sykervet as I have experienced the same thing. I've had conversations/argument with some DPMS rep because barrels were impossible to get off with out damaging the receiver on some rifles because they use blue loc tight on their barrel nuts......WHY????.... Just one more reason not to buy there rifles.
jrhines
Member
Thanx guys...
I got the barrel off, removed the gas block, installed the standard nut for a new Troy Alpha tube, reinstalled the gas block, installed a BCE 1.5 comp (TIGed in place) and delivered the rifle (along with a bunch of other changes). I use a dab of anti-seize compound and torque the nut to 30 FP + the next gas tube slot, have never had any problems. I find the anti-seize allows a very smooth application of torque to line everything up without a lot of fiddling. I wish I had measured the force to break the nut off, I was using a 2' cheater and bearing down with quite a bit of my 200 lb magnificent body. I would have to believe that it was way over the 30-40 ft-lbs that I have always used.
My client ran it through its' paces this weekend and reports that life is good and all is well.
Do I smell turkey cooking in the kitchen?....
I got the barrel off, removed the gas block, installed the standard nut for a new Troy Alpha tube, reinstalled the gas block, installed a BCE 1.5 comp (TIGed in place) and delivered the rifle (along with a bunch of other changes). I use a dab of anti-seize compound and torque the nut to 30 FP + the next gas tube slot, have never had any problems. I find the anti-seize allows a very smooth application of torque to line everything up without a lot of fiddling. I wish I had measured the force to break the nut off, I was using a 2' cheater and bearing down with quite a bit of my 200 lb magnificent body. I would have to believe that it was way over the 30-40 ft-lbs that I have always used.
My client ran it through its' paces this weekend and reports that life is good and all is well.
Do I smell turkey cooking in the kitchen?....
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