breakfree clp or rem oil or hoppes oil

breakfree clp or rem oil or hoppes oil

  • breakfree clp

    Votes: 161 73.5%

  • rem oil

    Votes: 32 14.6%

  • hoppes oil

    Votes: 26 11.9%
  • Total voters
    219
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If you look at the tests on the site posted by ScareyH22A and the ones I posted earlier, then it must be admitted that, for corrosion protection, Eezox runs away with the lead followed by CLP. Mobil 1 is left in the dust as effectively useless for corrosion protection as is FP10 and Remoil!
The results of the tests carry much more weight that anecdotal statements that "This lube or that is great. I've used it for years."
I only have a few bottles of CLP left before I stock up on Eezox.

Ron
 
The main reason most of the lubes fail as rust inhibitors is that they are lighter than water and just float away. CLP is an exception.

Eezox is about 35% heavier than water and stays on the surface. It also has a heavy dose of anti-corrosion additives.

This info from the gentleman who invented it (since deceased).
 
In the second set of comparative photos, Mobil 1 is on the lower right at the start and remains there in the following series of photos in test B. Other than the control, the Mobil 1 protected metal rusts the fastest and the most.

Thank you for that information on the densities, DBR.

Ron
 
jake-

Those "tests" are hardly "scientific". No environmental controls to start with, repeatability is out the window along with validity.

Run 'em again and you'll get different results.

I've used M1 for over 14 years on all different kinds of firearms across varying real world environmental extremes and never had an issue with corrosion or lubricity. M1 performs every bit as well as the "gun specific" products, maybe even better.

Don't waste your money.

:)
 
The main reason most of the lubes fail as rust inhibitors is that they are lighter than water and just float away. CLP is an exception.
Click to expand...

Dunno 'bout that one, DBR. ;)

According to this MSDS, Break-Free CLP has a density of 0.86 grams/cc whereas H2O has a density of ~1.00 gram/cc (depending upon its temperature).

http://www.wfrfire.com/msds/break.htm

Given adequate surface-barrier affinity, lubricants can tolerate exposure to H2O sucessfully so long as they possess high molecular polarity (PAO basestocks are very "polar").


:)
 
I have used breakfree for 35+ years and never had a problem with it. had guns sit for years and they do get handled but not shot or reoiled and are fine . My basic cleaning kit is and has been kroil oil and breakfree. NO winchester does not own them ,just a busniness bs. If your gona use motor oil then buy redline or amsoil ,they are made from different stock/base oil than moble1 is and both are a better oil. I have used amsoil for 26years and motors look new inside. atleast harleys do. I will stay with breakfree Grew up hunting in florida and never had rust on guns 35 years old.
 
Gun Slinger:

The CLP exception was not stated very well. I meant that in spite of the fact that it has lower density than water it still provides good corrosion protection.
 
Every time there is a "best lubricant" debate it always turns into a best "corrosion resistance" argument. When i think of a gun oil i want what prevents the most friction and galling on the action of the gun, not whatsgoing to be put on the outside for rust prevention. Those are two completely different purposes and would be best suited by two different oils. These test that show what lube prevents the most rust after weeks and months just show which ones stay put the most, not necessarily which one works the best. Try reapplying them regularly to see how they do there job. If i wanted something to really stay put for extended periods it would be wax,grease, or cosmoline.
 
I live in Vermont. During cold weather one side of the gun is against my body and the other side is exposed to the cold. Under my coat it gets quite humid. The gun has a rain storm going on inside it from condensation especially if I go into a heated area. The best lube in the world won't do a bit of good if water removes it and/or the gun rusts.

In warm weather the gun is exposed to high humidity both from the weather and from body moisture.

For a range only gun most of these concerns don't matter except it is difficult not to handle the gun with sweaty hands and maybe even drip sweat on it.

Hunting weapons may be subjected to even more harsh conditions.

From my perspective the lubrication needs for most guns are secondary to the protection they need while being used.
 
Yep, depends on what your priority is.
Cleaning?
Lubricant?
Protectant?
As far as an all in one, I'll vote for Eezox. Hard to find, kind of pricey, but does an acceptable job of the first, an exceptional job of the second, and an unbeatable job of the third.

BTW, "Mobil" is an oil company, and "Mobile" is a city in Alabama. :rolleyes:
 
Gunslinger,

You are absolutely correct about the test validity and lack of repeatability. I've looked at the multiple sites that have done these tests and "integrated" the results in my mind by comparing them - like an unscientific "macro" examination of multiple studies. They seem to be pretty consistent, particularly with the Break Free CLP results. My approach is, admittedly, just as unscientific, but I would trust the combined results more than I would individual, anecdotal reports. I suppose this is using the "best" of the insufficient data.

Likely, most of the protectants and lubricants are effective for our purposes except for under the most extreme conditions. And, if it works for you, stay with it.

Ron
 
DBR: said:
Gun Slinger:

No problem. Just as an aside: water is very polar.
Click to expand...

DBR-

Well aware of that. :) Check my "public profile". ;)



Ron-

Just as well.

Of the vast majority of what I've seen in my research of the subject and the tests offered, I've yet to see anything in the way of an actual scientific test for these lubricants and I adhere to the concept that you've put forth above: "And, if it works for you, stay with it."

Hell, my selection of firearms lubricant is not even a "gun-specific" product, a "quality" that I have no doubt troubles some to be sure. Oh well...my guns, my choice. :)

Nice to see that folks here can still find it possible to disagree without becoming disagreeable.
 
I'm currently using some of that Otis drylube stuff. First time trying it on my own firearms, although did use it in the military on occasion. Has always seemed a little weird to me not to have a very thin visible film of oil on the parts. Functionally, however, seems to be fine. Anyone know if the drylubes are really advised or good for long term usage?
 
The bottom line to all this is taking care of your guns when you use or carry them. I have an 870 that is almost 30 years old and it has on rust on it and it has been baptized in the rice fields , flood timber and swamps of Eastern Ark for 3 decades. I have wiped that shotgun down with WD-40 after every hunt and after cleaning it everyday during Duck hunting I cleaned it weekly rabbit and small game hunting while wiping it down every day I used it. For all the expensive products touted on here some of us must not be taking very good care of our guns. IMO
 
Unless a gun is used or stored in extreme conditions or you're putting it through a 5,000 round torture test they're all (except for WD-40) about the same in my experience.
 
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