Broke yet another revolver, Smith 48

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El Tejon

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Another glorious day here in the Wabash Valley and I just happened to find myself at the range. And, surprise, surprise, I broke yet another revolver--this makes, IIRC, two Smiths, a Colt, a Ruger and an FN. *sigh* I'm the Angel of Gun Death.

I was shooting several new pistols and a new rifle in addition to a Smith M48 that I purchased sometime in the early '90s as I just bought a bunch of .22 mag that I found a deal on at the local Rural King. The revolver was shooting fine until about 60 rounds of shooting--the cylinder will not close without force. When closed it will not fire either by trigger cocking or thumb cocking.

I see nothing out of place and I heard nothing go "sproing" or "boing" as I have in the past when I have broken other revolvers.

Any suggestions as to what the problem is? I do plan to take it to a smith later this week.

TIA.:)
 
Will the hammer just not go back, hence the "no firing" thing?:scrutiny: If you can barely move the hammer, but barely moving it allows the cylinder to rotate, I might know what the issue is, but it won't be a pleasant fix. If it isn't that, I won't due you the disservice and kill your hopes :)
 
Loose ejector rod or crud under the ejector star... Unfortunately there is a good chance that the ejector rod is now bent. Bring it to your smith. :(
 
I have a M-48 made in 1959 (first year) that has the right hand threads on the ejector rod. I have just make sure it is tight and it isn't that big of a deal. I also have a M-48 made in 1965 which has the left hand threads on the ejector rod and I don't expect it to be a problem. with both of them however you have to make sure that you rub the crud out from underneath the ejector star. both are very good shooters. you do NOT force anything when closing the cylinder. if it closes hard stop and look
 
I know about .22s, only been shooting 40 years :rolleyes: but he mentions more than one handgun, and I want to be straight on which type he meant.
 
I second Deadin's suggestion. When the ejector rod unscrews it cause much of what you have described.

SaxonPig's Rules on Revolver Fixin':

1: Clean it.

2: Tighten the ejector rod.

These two steps will correct about 90% of revolver malfunctions.
 
What FN revolver did you break, the Barracuda, a repackaged Astra? Sorry about mod 48, it's seemed like a ejector rod issue to me also.
 
Does the cylinder stop move freely? The cylinder stop spring on my M-67 broke and jammed inside the action locking up trigger and hammer, but allowed me to open and close the cylinder with force. S&W sent me a call tag for the repair but after opening up my gun it looked like a spring I could replace without any fuss.
 
They've been on the American market off and on. I think a 6 was approved for overrun came in 18 months ago or so, maybe a 1,000 units or so.

They were 4" .357s, retailed at $300 (that's Indiana pricing, don't know what they were in California or if they were even legal out there).
 
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Gunsmith called today at lunch. A not readily visible sliver of brass ("Like a snake") from a cartridge slide down between the cylinder and ejector rod causing the problem.

Weapon was disassembled and and air hosed off. It was then test fired.:)

Gunsmith said the problem was that I do something that most gun owners do not do--I shoot my guns.:D
 
For future reference, you're supposed to break in your handguns, not break them. I know it can be confusing, but there's a BIG difference.

Have you considered a line of...say...ummm...Rugers? :uhoh:
 
MDL's 48

I doubt it is broke-- I got a heads up from a buddy when I picked mine up, (posted elsewhere here), and I carry a cleaning brush to brush the star, top & bottom every 4/5 cylinders full. Not required for hunting, but at he range, and 60 rounds, you may wish to consider it. :) GREAT SHOOTER by the way. :)
 
Dang it, El Tejon, you are just plain too hard on revolvers. You need to immediately pack them ALL up and send to me for safekeeping and some TLC...

:D :evil: :D :evil: :D :evil:
 
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