I've got a S&W 28-2 with the lower side plate screw broken. Taking the side plate off, the screw has a stub sticking up, but not much. What is the best way to try to extract it. Any "tricks"? Thought about using pencil torch to apply some heat to frame, in case Lock Tite is present.??? Or would you just see if S&W would fix it?
Broken Side Plate Screw
- Thread starter Cookie45
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Don't apply heat!
Maybe a drop of penetrating oil at most.
Then use a sharp steel awl or scribe and a real small hammer to tappy-tap it counter-clockwise and unscrew it far enough to get a grip on it with forceps or something.
Shouldn't be that hard to unscrew it as they are not real tight threads.
rc
Maybe a drop of penetrating oil at most.
Then use a sharp steel awl or scribe and a real small hammer to tappy-tap it counter-clockwise and unscrew it far enough to get a grip on it with forceps or something.
Shouldn't be that hard to unscrew it as they are not real tight threads.
rc
dfariswheel
Member
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- Dec 26, 2002
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S&W will extract it for you, or......
"Usually" with the head off the screw isn't tight and can be turned.
Method one is as above, use a sharp needle, engraver's graver or other very hard, sharp tool and a small hammer to try to turn it.
To do this, the idea is to get the hard tool to "bite" into the metal on the outer edge of the screw.
First try to turn it by pushing by hand. If that doesn't work, tap gently with a small hammer.
Second method is to use a knife-edged needle file or if you're super-duper careful a Dremel cut-off wheel to cut or file a groove in the exposed part of the screw. Then use a standard gunsmith's screwdriver to turn the screw out.
Another method is to buy a very small Sears screw extractor.
They sell a screw extractor that has a toothed end that will bite into metal and turn the screw.
In this case you MUST use a drill press and you turn it by hand to both keep the extractor centered on the screw, and to gently turn it without the press running.
Best advice: Try wiggling the screw with the sharp tool just to see if it's loose.
Try to turn it by hand, and if it won't ...... back to S&W so you don't botch up a good gun.
"Usually" with the head off the screw isn't tight and can be turned.
Method one is as above, use a sharp needle, engraver's graver or other very hard, sharp tool and a small hammer to try to turn it.
To do this, the idea is to get the hard tool to "bite" into the metal on the outer edge of the screw.
First try to turn it by pushing by hand. If that doesn't work, tap gently with a small hammer.
Second method is to use a knife-edged needle file or if you're super-duper careful a Dremel cut-off wheel to cut or file a groove in the exposed part of the screw. Then use a standard gunsmith's screwdriver to turn the screw out.
Another method is to buy a very small Sears screw extractor.
They sell a screw extractor that has a toothed end that will bite into metal and turn the screw.
In this case you MUST use a drill press and you turn it by hand to both keep the extractor centered on the screw, and to gently turn it without the press running.
Best advice: Try wiggling the screw with the sharp tool just to see if it's loose.
Try to turn it by hand, and if it won't ...... back to S&W so you don't botch up a good gun.
Thank for the advise rcmodel & dfariswheel! Broken screw was actually the replacement screw that held a AimTech scope mount on. It was fairly tight, but once it moved a little, it came out easy. I was afraid they had put Locktite on it and that was why it broke!
dagger dog
Member
Cookie,
You did well!
If you should suspect a gun screw has been, installed with "LOCTITE" , a soldering iron, gun electric or externally heated ,applied to the head or broken portion of the screw will create enough heat to negate the application of the liquid thread locker without any damage to the heat treatment of the body of the firearm.
You did well!
If you should suspect a gun screw has been, installed with "LOCTITE" , a soldering iron, gun electric or externally heated ,applied to the head or broken portion of the screw will create enough heat to negate the application of the liquid thread locker without any damage to the heat treatment of the body of the firearm.
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