Brown Bess

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Brown Bess frizzen

My Japanese Bess from Dixie doesn't always open the frizzen fully when it fires. Is this common or do I have a spring with too much pressure? All of my other flints open the frizzen fully when fired.

Thanks for any input

Brett.
 
Certainly seems possible the frizzen spring is stiffer than it needs to be, but if the gun fires ok, what's the problem? The frizzen spring is the least important part of a flintlock.
 
Bret the 'buttons' are solid brass carpet tacks.. By solid i mean flat on the bottom. No dished in hollow spaces where ther steel nail rod is. Very careful measuring and drilling with an undersized bit works best, and the bit should be 'protected' as in something is on the bit to stop it from drilling too deep.

I have a Japanese Bess that always throws the pan wide open. This problem could be too short of a flint, or to tight of a spring, no lube in the screw hole/screw, no lube or a poor fit on the frizzen follower/grity bearing surfaces..

It is possible to polish the spring where the follower rides it and the spring too.

DON'T DO THIS... yet...

It is possible with a lot of care to grind the working end of a spring to a taper, but this must be done with out getting the spring any hotter than your fingers can stand.... The work must be even and no steps cut, but crude work.

This it trial and error and step by step, taking the spring off to grind and polish, to try, and repeat untill the frizzen has be 'fit'.

Nothing can put metal back on this spring, and it is a pretty good idea to have 4 on hand in case there is a error...

When the grinding takes place it isn't the best to do it free hand with a dremel, as the bearing surface needs to be square with the follower. If it isn't the follower will want to cock the frizzen of to one side or the other and can hang the frizzen, which amouts to getting what you have now.
 
I am not to sure about tacking a Bess, not that you can't. But doing so could reduce the value in a sale. Most historical re-enactors using the Bess are 'regulars' and since the King owned the gun at the time and not the regular, adding anything to the gun, would get you flogged..

So today no re-enactor wouls want to buy a used Bess tacked up probably..

Like i said you can and the gun is yours, but if you ever decided to trade it you would expect to loose in the deal.

Also I have seen guns tacked to the point the wood was weakened. It is pretty clear a tack can't be too near the metal parts beneath, and can't stick into the ram rod channel, and the wood between is very thin and delicate.

I have seen terrible work when tacks are used as well, all odd spacings and wiggly lines. Once the tack is in it is very hard to remove it and hide any damage.

Portraits of natives do some very strange things, from poor tacking work on purpose, to painting the entire weapon light blue, and other assorted colors.

Of course all this depends on if you would ever consider re-enactting and a sale/trade in the future..
 
Frizzens stay partially closed, as the fellow wrote, because..., your flint is too short and the top of the hammer-screw is hitting the top of the frizzen, or the flint is too short to push the frizzen open, or you need to clean the frizzen screw and lube the pivot hole, or..., you need to polish the frizzen cam where it comes into contact with the frizzen spring.

It's easy..., use some fine emory cloth and a finger, and a drop or two of baby oil, and gently rub the surface of the spring were it contacts the frizzen to get a bright, shiny surface, AND do the same on the point of the frizzen where it contacts the sping (the cam). Do this by hand...., it takes a while, and stop when the surface is shiny and smooth. ONLY do this if the previous suggestions don't work..., and NEVER do it with power tools.

LD
 
I just got to tacking my Bess/trade rifle, The rifle didnt have any real value as it was so I decided to modify it with help from one of my French Indian era pals. I solderd a front site from Tracks rifle parts. I really like the results so far.

Brett.
 
I bought a Centermark smoothbore Tulle de Chasse kit about fifteen years ago. It came with a german silver front site in the shape of a turtle. One of those silver soldered on a Brown Bess would be neat.
 
The thing now Brett, is that will never be a gun sold or traded to the largest group "regulars" which is fine. You made up a Indian trade musket, but in the doing limited resale value to a smaller segment.

I am sure that won't stop you from having fun with it though.
 
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