Browning 1886 .45-70

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guitarguy314

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Hey guys, I am the soon to be owner of a browning 1886 in .45-70, and I have a ton of questions.

Not the least of which is, what loads shouldn't I put in the rifle? I know it's supposed to be pretty strong. I don't reload, so is there any factory ammo that I should avoid with it?

Is there anything I should know as a first time rifle owner?

Anything I should know as a first time .45-70 owner?

Anyone know anywhere I can find a pdf of the ownser manual? I can't find it on browning's site.

Thanks guys,

L
 
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Okay, I don't have a Browning, I have a Marlin. First thing to know - you're gonna love it. There are handloads that are only recommended to be used in Ruger No.1 and No.3 single shots, but you can use the "level 2" loads which still generate some serious horsepower. If you don't handload, there are some offerings from Buffalo Bore and Garrett, that are safe in lever actions and will generate all of the power (and recoil) you want :) You should be good for anything in North America within the limits of the .45-70's rainbow trajectory. For my old eyes, 150 yards is as far as I want to shoot anyway. Enjoy!
 
http://www.browning.com/customerservice/request/owners-manual.asp

anything I should know as a first time rifle owner?
Well, you sure picked out a hum-dinger to start out with didn't you!!

The first thing you want to know is start out with trap-door Springfield, or standard pressure 45-70 loads.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/35...government-405-grain-lead-flat-nose-box-of-20

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/37...nment-405-grain-jacketed-soft-point-box-of-20


You may find they have all the power you care to withstand without getting into Buffalo Bore elephant stompers!

rc
 
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Okay, I see I missed some of your questions. No, there is no factory ammo I know of that isn't safe with your Browning. But...I see that this is your first rifle? Most factory .45-70 loads are pretty tame, because they are made to be safe even for 150 year old trap door Springfields. But they still kick like a moderate 12 gauge shotgun load, with a loud report. Not painful, but can still be enough to produce some bad shooting habits, I.E., flinching. If you relax and can shoot tight groups, no problem. If your groups are bigger than you think they should be, it might require some work.
 
I have a Winchester/Miroku Extra Lightweight 1886
I sold two Sharps and a Trapdoor, kept my 1874 Infantry Sharps and this rifle.
It is simply THE BEST .45/70 I have ever owned.
It weights 3/4 pound more than a 1873 Springfield Trapdoor carbine and carries five shots which can be be loaded to levels approaching .458 Magnum, something the Trapdoor could never handle.
Accuracy is excellent as well.
Congrats on your purchase.
Oh, if you find the crescent buttplate a bit unbearable, you CAN get a replacement shotgun buttplated stock and retrofit.
 
Thanks guys! Also, just to be clear; this is not the first rifle I've ever fired. My dad has a 10/22, and I have fired a .223 AR and A Mosin, and a Winchester 45/70 LE, not to mention a 12 gauge coach gun.

I'm not just jumping in head first. ((well, not totally anyway))

The thing is, I hate the 10/22 with a passion (((I'm the only one, I know)). The low sights make it impossible for me to aim with. The best luck I've had when rifle shooting is with the open sight 45-70. Plus I really like that recoil. hehe. I don't plan on adding a butt pad if I can help it.
 
What you have is one of the finest leverguns ever made. Quality is very high but unlike the newer Winchesters, which are also excellent, you have a traditional half cock action instead of a rebounding hammer and tang safety. Due to the quality, modern metallurgy and Browning's design it is the second strongest of the traditional levergun actions. It is a good 10,000psi stronger than the Marlin 1895.

PS, if yours is the "rifle" version with the crescent buttplate, it's not supposed to be planted in the pocket of your shoulder. Move it out a little and hook it around the top part of your arm, where the toe curves into your armpit. Most folks who complain about the recoil with a crescent buttplate and doing it wrong.
 
Thanks so much Craig C. I'll be sure and do that. That was actually something that I could not find the answer for.
 
Due to the quality, modern metallurgy and Browning's design it is the second strongest of the traditional levergun actions.

In your estimation, CraigC, what is the strongest "traditional" lever-action rifle? The Winchester Model 1895? The Savage Model 99? I always thought it was the Winchester Models 1886/71. Just curious as to your opinion.
 
It's tough to say but I've always assumed that the 1895 was slightly stronger. It's been chambered in .270WCF and its maximum pressure is 52,000CUP but it's also smaller in diameter than the .45-70, which means more chamber steel. The .405 isn't SAAMI rated but Hodgdon data does not exceed 45,000psi. They are at least equal but I think the `95 is probably a little stronger. The reason we don't see it chambered in anything bigger than the .405 is due to the magazine's limitations. Still, in that chambering it duplicates original .450/.400 ballistics with a 400gr bullet. Which has a sectional density equal to a 500gr .45/70 but runs at least 500fps faster.
 
Thanks, CraigC, for your response. I'm still curious as to your take on the Savage Model 99 rifle in terms as to how it rates concerning action strength in contrast with other "traditional" lever-action rifles of the era and today. As you must know, it has been chambered in some relatively high pressure ammunition (at least as to compared with what was available when the Model 99 was first introduced in the late nineteenth century and even today), including the .308, .358, .243, .375, .22-250, 7mm-08 and .284 cartridges.
 
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A savage 99 is just about as strong as a bolt gun. And they are controlled feed as well. The 99 is a really well built rifle.
 
The weak point on a tube fed lever-action is the thin web between the barrel threads and the hole for the magazine tube. When they blow up, thats what lets go.

So I would agree a box magazine 95 "should" be stronger.

Moving up in time, there was the Winchester Model 88, SAKO Finnwolf, and the current Browning BLR that all use a rotary bolt.

They should be as strong as most bolt-actions.

rc
 
The action of the 1886 is certainly strong enough to accommodate the pressures generated by cartridges in the .30/06 class, the tube magazine design precludes the use of pointed bullet cartridges.
.348 Winchester as well as .33 Winchester loads can well exceed common .30/06 pressures.
 
The weak point on a tube fed lever-action is the thin web between the barrel threads and the hole for the magazine tube. When they blow up, thats what lets go....

That is exactly correct. The thickness at the bottom of the barrel for the magazine cut is a hair over twice as thick on the 86 action as the Marlin 95 action. The current Marlin 95 action is a redesigned 336 action, and the bottom of the barrel is milled fairly thin to accomodate the magazine tube of the 45-70 round, and the ID of the chamber.

If anyone was wondering why the 86's tend to be considered stronger, the other issue is the amount of locking bolt interface to the bolt with the 86 is quite a lot more than the Marlins as well.
 
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