Browning BAR Owners - ammo input needed

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biggameballs said:
Well I went a head and ordered 2 boxes of Hornady 150 SST, 2 boxes of Winchester silver balistic tips, and 1 box of the Wichester power max bonded to break the barrel in. Hopefully after I get the barrel broken in with the cheap power max bonded it will like one of the other 2 rounds. If not I'll have to try some 165's.
Click to expand...
ok you did good..
the 150gr hornady will be shorter than the silvertips so best COAL can be determined.
Now watch for copper fouling on a new bore, use a dedicated copper solvent.
After that box of cheap ammo (cheap, yeah right) you'll stop seeing copper in the lands.
The reason for removing excess copper is so your shots burnish the steel, not just running over copper. Hopefully I didn't just start a big war over clean or not clean
 
Thanks sansone I was planning on doing a break in procedure. I bought a bore snake for this gun since the BAR is a little harder to clean and would have to be done from the muzzle with a rod. My plan was to fire 1 shot and clean, then 3 shots and clean, then 5 shots and clean. By then I should be at the 100 yard target and ready to dial it in. I figured I'd shoot up the rest of the power max and see how it groups and then just clean between the differnt types of ammo.

Will butches bore shine and a bore snake do the trick to remove the copper or do I need something more aggressive to get the copper out? If the latter what would you recomend.
 
I never tried those on copper, I know Sweet's 7.62 and KG12 work on copper. Hoppes 9 doesn't remove copper, Birchwd Casey "bore-scrubber" doesn't either.
I'm glad you're not gonna clean from the muzzle end. That crown is important

edit: KG12 removes copper without aggressive scrubbing, but it eats bronze brushes too if you dont rinse it off
 
My only concern with trying to remove copper with the bore snake was that I thought most copper solivents needed to soak for a while. Do they make a weighted rope with just a patch adapter on it that I could run through with a wet patch of my copper solvent and then let it sit for a while and then run the bore snake through?
 
you can use thick monofilament line (weed-eater string) to pull a patch through.
Tie a knot in one end, slide your patch up to the knot, push the stiff monofilament through (un-knotted end) from the chamber going out to the muzzle.
Then pull from the muzzle and your wet patch pulls through from the chamber on out the muzzle.
 
I'm a little too late.

I've got a few rifles and shotguns I've taken hunting and would you know the only guns I've been successful with on deer are BARs. I do my Whitetail hunting in Northern Wisconsin. The colors are better there doncha know (Green and Gold) as are the trophies (Lombardi that is).

But I digress...the BAR is a fabulous deer gun up north. I just wish they would take detachable 10rd box magazines. My Dad and I have BARs in .270 Win and the only ammo we've ever tried is the Corelokt or Fed Blue Box. Both shoot nickle size 5 shot groups. Every 5th or 6th group will have a flyer about 1.25". About the same number of grouos will produce a group covered by a dime. I did notice though that if I run on in the chamber and put 4 in the mag my 2000ish model (lightweight stalker) will not completely cycle the first shot. If I only put three in the mag it runs just fine.
 
I guess the only questions I have now is with the break in proceedure. I haven't had a new rilfe in 15 years so I'm not real experienced with this. What's the best solevent to remove copper? How often should I be cleaning between shots? Is it critical to oil the barrel between shots in break in?
 
I've tried a bunch of different copper removing products over the years, mostly because I'm lazy and want to get something that works well with out a lot of effort or hassle.

Many of the ammonia-based ones smell too strong - Sweets in particular - and you have to be careful they don't etch the metal or harm the finish. Similarly, I'm careful about anything that's abrasive. I have never found anything I really like, but I've found a method that works for me. The downside is it's time-consuming - and that's not what you're after here.

So... IME, if you clean with Hoppes between shots, you're not going to shoot enough to copper foul your bore to any great degree. Clean and shoot, do your ammo tests and clean thoroughly at home with whatever good copper-removing product suits your fancy.

FWIW, I am always cautious with anything strong, as it seems to me a residual amount will likely dribble into the BAR's gas port - and something like Sweets in there for an extended period would likely cause a problem, IMO, YMMV, YADAYADA.
 
For copper removal I absolutely love Wipe Out's products. I use the liquid Wipe Out Patch Out, but others use their Wipe Out Foam with great results. I haven't used anywhere near all of the cleaning products out there on the market, but Wipe Out is by far the best I've used. You also don't have to worry about it etching your barrel if you leave it in a little too long.
 
I've got a FNAR which is basically a Browning Bar Hunting rifle. Mine likes 168-175 SMK's. Ramshot Tac and H4895 are a good powder choice and you can drive them pretty hard. I can get sub moa easily with Re-15 but I think the powder is a tad bit slow and hard on the gas system but they sure can shoot well. I find 150 gr bullets are so so and not really my first choice, or even second choice. I don't have my load book handy but if you want I can post some good loads that work well in my gun.
 
Unfortunatley I'm not a hand loader. I'd also like to add that I'm not looking for 1/2" groups or anything. For this year if I can get 1.5-2 inch groups at 100 yards with one of the ammo's I've picked out I'll be happy. I guess I'm just a little nervous becasue I hear 5 people that say there BAR shoots an inch at 100 and then I hear one guy say his wont shoot better then 3 or 4 inches at 100 on a good day. I will be really grossed out with 3-4 inches but like I said anything under 2 should be fine since my max shot is probably 200 yards.
 
well I've got one hell of a shooter. All 3 ammo's were beyond my expectations. The Hornady SST were the best with 5 shot groups just under an inch. The "cheap" powermax bullets were second best with 5 shot groups averaging between 1 and 1.5". Suprisingly the more expensive Winchester Silver ballistic tips were probably the worst. They would consistantly put 3 bullets touching then throw 2 fliers a little over an inch and a half from the group of 3. This was all done at 100 yards with a 6 power scope.
 
That's good.

My FNAR will sub MOA pretty much anything, though I tend to throw 150 grain federal blue box through it more than anything, since my M1A likes that stuff too.
 
Yeah, but as long as the first two are close it won't matter if they open up as the barrel heats. Who puts more than 2 into an animal? First two cold barrel count, unless we are doing suppressing fire?
 
The barrell was allowed to cool between most shots. Suprisingly it never really got hot anyways.
 
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