Browning BLR owners. Need re-assembly help/advice.

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wyorat

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I have looked at a couple of threads and found out the hard way as to why you shouldn't disassemble a BLR. I inherited a Browning BLR 358 Win from my father. I didn't have instructions and disassembled the rifle. Oops! I have it back together and it will cycle rounds, but, I have slight movement in the bolt. I don't want to fire the weapon without confirmation from some BLR owners. If the timing is off please let me know. Specifically, should there be play in the bolt after cycling the lever and the rifle is ready to fire. Here are some pictures that show the amount of movement in the bolt. Thanks in advance.
 

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Just me again. Thanks for moving the thread. I'm new to the forum and wasn't sure where to post my question. Still waiting on a response. I can't believe Browning doesn't offer any reassembly diagrams or pictures. The fact that they advise against it doesn't excuse them from not offering any kind of help. Especially for the price of their firearms. I planned on duracoating this rifle. I'm not so sure now. I'm sure Browning could have built a better design here. I wanted a trigger job and found out it is a very hard process also. Who designs a rifle that's so hard to work on. Really! I love my A-bolt, but this thing is starting to piss me off.
 
I can't give you any specific advise even tho I went thru the same exercise about 18 years ago. I finally got it to close and lock like it is designed to. I spent about 2 months working with it, apart, back together, apart, repeat, repeat. It can be assembled with very minor changes in timing. Try it again, its not difficult, just tedious, there are no timing "marks" as far as I know. It can be done and you can do it, just don't be in a hurry and be ready to do it again.
I worked on diesel fuel systems that were easier to time than the Browning BLR 81.
Take your time and walk away and then come back and try again.
 
*Hear you loud and clear MMCSRET. I've been working on it for a few hours and have had to walk away a couple times. Mostly looking at the schematic off Brownell's. I actually got it to close to 1/16 of an inch but it wouldn't cycle a round. I'm guessing it need to be flush but am still seeking confirmation. If someone could look at their BLR and tell me if their is any play in the bolt when it's closed, it would really help.
*Thanks for the link wombat13. If I can't get it back together I might send it to the gunsmith for trigger work and reassembly. Thanks.
 
There is no play in the bolt when it is locked in place. It rotates as it is closed. If it were me I would call Browning and let them fix it. I can only imagine what could happen if it fired w/o being locked.
 
Thanks for the help 351 WINCHESTER. Exactly what I needed. I will try a few more times. I'm not one to give up easy. Something my dad taught me. If I can't get it done, I'll send it in. My dad taught me not to be stupid either. :D
 
Yeah! Success. 3rd days a charm. Thanks for all the help guys. I put the rifle together today on the 3rd attempt. I took a couple days off. I'm posting to help those who run into the same problem. I fallowed the instructions given on another forum.

To Quote the Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly:
"Insert the lever assembly with the bolt in fully closed position, and with the bolt gear at the rearmost location in its track.
Insert the gear and lever cross pins, but do not drive them in place until the gear and bolt engagement is correct. There should be a very small space visible at the point indicated (Rear of the bolt head, front front of the bolt carrier) with the lever closed.
If the space is measurable... then the engagement must be readjusted.
To do this, pull the lever pin only, reposition the lever track on the gear until the bolt closure is correct. If it is too tight for full lever travel, back it off by one gear tooth."


Problem was, I just couldn't get it back to together. I felt something was in the way. I lucked out and tried something different.

I did the opposite. 1st) insert the lever pin to the point where it engages the gear assembly at it's attachment point but not to the point where it interferes with the placement of the lever itself. I put the pin in from the bottom.
2nd) The gear will not go to it's rearmost point until you push in the triangular plunger on the gear assembly to where it butts in to the hammer retaining pin. I did this by using a flathead screwdriver through the top by way of the hammer(cocked back), while holding the bolt all the way to it's fully seated position, while sliding the gear toward the direction of the hammer. This allowed the center gear pin to fall into place. No force. Just gravity. Just don't push the plunger past the hammer retaining pin or you'll have to start over.
3rd) After the gear pin falls into place, I inserted the lever and drove the lever pin from the bottom upwardly into place.


I know this doesn't fallow the Gun Digest instructions exactly and one of the 3pins will be opposite of the original factory assembly, but, it works. I disassembled and repeated to prove to myself that it works. I have no problem reassembling this rifle and will not fear it ever again. I will disassemble now and prep it for DuraCoat.

My theory here was that it would be easier to move the center pin vs the lever pin. Why, because every thing moves with the lever pin removed and the plunger wasn't allowing me to slide the gear to its rearmost position. With the center pin removed, only the gear can move. I knew if I moved the gear into the proper position while pushing on the plunger, with the lever pin in place, that everything else would naturally align and the center pin would fall into place...and it did.

Hope this helps someone in the future. There is very little info out there other than the Gun Digest directions. They helped me work through the problem, but, in the end they just didn't work for me. I think people will have more success with my modified version.
 
Scrap my last post. Took the rifle out today to see if it would fire. Odd thing happened. The rifle will only cycle my dummy round with an OAL of 2.720" and not my actual ammo reloads from Connelly Precision which have an OAL of 2.740". The bullet is a Barnes 200gr TSX. The Lyman book shows a 200gr round nose bullet with an OAL of 2.550". Max OAL for the rifle is 2.780". Like I said, Odd. The lever really throws smooth and has no hitches in the bolt as it slides with the dummy round. I only had 30 caliber dies so I made the dummy on the fly. I didn't think .02" in the OAL would make a difference. In the end it did.

Could the pointed Barnes be the problem vs. a round nose bullet? Like I said before, I inherited this rifle from my father and do not know if he had problems with the custom loads from Connelly Precision. Is my timing still off by one gear? Should I seat the bullets farther in to allow proper cycling of the lever? This thing is running smooth with the dummy round and there is no play in the bolt when it is loaded. I'm at a loss.

I have read of problems with ammo in the BLR's on other forums. Just looking for some insight or suggestions from other BLR owner's. Thanks in advance guys.
 
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