Browning salt cured stock

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squid841

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My wife inherited a Browning Safari 30-06 rifle from her last husband (he passed, not of gunfire :}) The story behind it is that Browning could not supply enough stocks to keep up with the demand. A employee had read about a method of curing wood by packing it in salt. They started using wood cured with this method for their stocks, but the left over salt in the wood started to affect the rifle. Browning stood behind the rifle by offering a replacement stock, and repair/replacement of any affected part. I have one that was never repaired, but it shoots great and I really like it. I would like to keep the stock, or at least replace it with a new wood stock. Does anyone have any idea how much it would cost. I have not been able to find a "drop in" stock for it. Is there any way to seal the existing stock. The gun is a perfect fit for me. The first time I shot it, I was shooting 4" groups at 100 yds. I have tried to remove the stock, but the screws must be corroded in there threads. If I cut the heads off, would I be able to get replacements. Ah, so many questions grasshopper.
 
You may be able to get the salt out by repeated soakings in fresh vats of hot water. Salt is water soluble. Duno if the wood would return to size completely after drying.
 
do a search for "salt stock" on youtube I think you'll find it "entertaining". So far as I've ever seen there is no cure. Save the stock if you wish but the salt is usually well embedded in the wood. The longer it's on the metal the worse it's going to get. Perhaps if you're not into woodworking enough to be interested in making or finishing a stock for it perhaps you can find a gunsmith that would do so reasonably.
 
The "curing" process they used pretty much ensures that there is no way to draw all of the salt out short of destroying the stock for use.

The only value these stocks really have is for chucking up in a "copy" lathe to duplicate a new stock.

It's in there deep!
 
The stock is usually a loss, and the metal normally will show significant pitting under the wood. I'd start by pulling the receiver from the stock and evaluating the condition of the metal before deciding on anything else.
 
If the metal is okay, I'd try glassbedding the receiver and all metal parts, free-floating the barrel.

I have a hard time believing that a good gun company would think salt-curing would not be detrimental to steel. Maybe the guy who decided it was the way to go worked in the Hormel ham-curing plant. LOL
 
I'd start by taking it to a gunsmith who can take it apart and tell you if it's a salt stock or not. Just because your gun was made in that era doesn't guarantee it's a salt stock. If you have a salt stock I'd look up McMillan and order a new fiberglass stock. For the cost of a custom wood stock you'd be better off just finding another rifle like yours that doesn't have the saltstock.
 
I'm curious about this as I'd never heard of this until now. Can the salt still affect the metal through a sealant like a varnish for instance? Seems surprising to me that it could get through the coating.
 
Yes it can get through wood finish. I've heard of people sealing everything in a salt stock with various potions but in the end it'll find a way to corrupt steel. You have things like recoil pad screws and sling studs/screws that actually have to be in constant contact with the wood.
 
Stock should be the same fit as a commercial FN mauser. Boyd's, Stocky's etc should have one to fit your action. You should be able to see rust if there is a problem with your gun. Run a lightly oiled dryer sheet between stock forend and barrel. If you feel any snagging on the barrel and if the sheet comes out rust stained you have a salt stock
 
Horsemany, I called McMillan and they can replace it with a drop in stock, they bed it, for $618 at my door. I do have to send them everything but the stock.
I have been looking on gallery of guns at 30-06 chambered rifles and they range from $366 (Mossburg) to GASP! $3495 (Colt) I think I am going to pull the rifle apart and check further for damage. In use, there are not enough "O's" in smooth to describe it. If the innards check out good enough, I'm gonna use my tax return and get the new stock.

Thanks for the help everyone.
 
if it is shooting 4" groups and you are a proficient shooter it might take allot of money to get her shooting sub MOA.
 
Depends on what he's looking for, I don't see any reason for most hunting or plinking rifles to shoot sub-moa. Its nice but not normally necessary.
 
Right now it is a plinking rifle, since I can't use a 30-06 in Indiana to hunt. A 30-06 plinking rifle! That just doesn't sound right. But it sure will be fun on the 200 yrd range!

I'm not a proficient shooter, that's why a 4" group at 100 yds excites me. Maybe this rifle will help me become one.
 
What position were shooting 100 yards from? Is your rifle scoped? 4" is nothing to sneeze at with open sights and standing or sitting. Prone, it's not even too bad. With a scope, prone, you could probably work up to shooting better than that.
 
Arts gun shop is the goto place for saltwood problems. Art was, I believe, a master gunsmith for Browning and is a Browning service center. He has articles and videos on saltwood stocks.

http://artsgunshop.com/

My understanding is some stocks are worse than others depending on where in the pallet of blanks the blank was - high in the pile is less severe than on the bottom of the pile where it may have sat in salt brine.

I know people that have sealed the inletted areas with epoxy and had success - but most recommend throwing the stock away and replacing it. Browning used to do this under warranty to the original owner. I don't know that they still do.
 
Hello, squid841. Back in mid 1970's, I bought a Browning T22 grade 2 bolt action .22. Beautiful wood grain & a tackdriver. After about 20 years..I noticed "crazing" in stock finish around buttplate edge. Then I found rust forming between action & wood. I had stockmaker friend remove small amount of wood that contacted metal parts & seal with stock bedding..couldn't tell it was altered & no more rusting. Also, stock was completly re-finished with oil in-the wood finish. Couple years later, I noticed stock felt like grain had been raised..and it was! salt imbeded under finish was drawing moisture into wood. Not sure if a sprayed-on lacquer type finish like Browning used would seal any better? Might just have custom stock made in future.
 
Yes, Browning made salt cured stocks. The A5s were quite common and Browning took a hit replacing all the ruined guns. At least they were willing to/did replace them, unlike some companies that just go "Well you were stupid enough to buy our pot metal press product, you got what you deserved!" There is no cure for salt cured wood other than live with it or replace it.

4" from that time frame was considered pretty good. More groups under 4 inches are shot with typewriters than guns. Mike Venturino wrote an article about that. Seems he got tired of hearing "You are a bad shoot! I can shoot an inch at 300 yards with MY rifle!" So he would pull out a $100 bill and say "SHOW ME!" (The same thing I do when I hear of a working Lee LoadMaster, I still got that $100 bill and so does Mike!) and it would instantly become "Well I don't have my rifle,..don't have my target loads,...winds wrong...wrong time of day...wrong season...wrong, er, ah, got to go!" Or in my case it was "Its packed up,...loaned out...kids are asleep,...wife is asleep...house is a mess,...that is, um, ah, er, got to go!" Yeah, I keep hearing about it, but I don't SEE it! Like Big Foot, I hear about a working LM, but I have yet to see one so I don't think they actually exist, but I'm not sure about Big Foot. If you can keep all your shots on a 8" pie pan you are good to hunt big game out to that distance. Smaller groups are nice, but the animal isn't going to tell the difference between a 4" rifle or a 1/2" rifle with a bullet through the lungs.
 
Yes, Browning made salt cured stocks. The A5s were quite common and Browning took a hit replacing all the ruined guns. At least they were willing to/did replace them, unlike some companies that just go "Well you were stupid enough to buy our pot metal press product, you got what you deserved!" There is no cure for salt cured wood other than live with it or replace it.

4" from that time frame was considered pretty good. More groups under 4 inches are shot with typewriters than guns. Mike Venturino wrote an article about that. Seems he got tired of hearing "You are a bad shoot! I can shoot an inch at 300 yards with MY rifle!" So he would pull out a $100 bill and say "SHOW ME!" (The same thing I do when I hear of a working Lee LoadMaster, I still got that $100 bill and so does Mike!) and it would instantly become "Well I don't have my rifle,..don't have my target loads,...winds wrong...wrong time of day...wrong season...wrong, er, ah, got to go!" Or in my case it was "Its packed up,...loaned out...kids are asleep,...wife is asleep...house is a mess,...that is, um, ah, er, got to go!" Yeah, I keep hearing about it, but I don't SEE it! Like Big Foot, I hear about a working LM, but I have yet to see one so I don't think they actually exist, but I'm not sure about Big Foot. If you can keep all your shots on a 8" pie pan you are good to hunt big game out to that distance. Smaller groups are nice, but the animal isn't going to tell the difference between a 4" rifle or a 1/2" rifle with a bullet through the lungs.
 
browning would/will replace the stock for the original purchaser with proof of purchase... if your wife could find the receipt they may be willing to honor it.
 
I had a .30/06 BAR Grade l Sporting Rifle that has salt cured wood.
The previous owner coated all internal contact surfaces of the metal with RIG Gun Grease and sealed the wood inside with bedding compound.
It was in as nice a condition when I sold it as when I received it.
 
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