Anyone have any experience with the Buck PakLite series of knives. I have been contemplating getting one of the field master kits and would like to know if they are actually worth the money. I would be using it only to dress game and it would be a smaller lighter weight more self-contained package than what I am currently using.
Buck Paklite
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Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
Something with handles might be a bit more comfortable to use for an extended period of time, and I don't think they'd add enough weight to worry about.
They're 420HC steel which blade geeks don't like much because it doesn't hold an edge for very long. It is easy for the average guy to sharpen though, which is why Buck uses it.
They're 420HC steel which blade geeks don't like much because it doesn't hold an edge for very long. It is easy for the average guy to sharpen though, which is why Buck uses it.
Sam Cade
Member
For the same $60 street price I believe I'd rather snatch up a couple Old Hicks or Dexter Russels and cobble together a sheath.
With the left over money I'd take my wife to the cleanest local chinese buffet and leave the waitress a generous tip.
Is the OP adamant about the requirement of a gut hook?
If so a standalone hook can be had for less than $10 though this will cut into the tip that I had planned to leave 章子怡.
With the left over money I'd take my wife to the cleanest local chinese buffet and leave the waitress a generous tip.
Is the OP adamant about the requirement of a gut hook?
If so a standalone hook can be had for less than $10 though this will cut into the tip that I had planned to leave 章子怡.
Speedo66
Member
I would prefer a more hand filling knife to work on anything, let alone something that covers your hands with blood while it's in strange places. They might also be slippery despite the serrations around the edges.
I've been using a Browning 3 blade folding knife for years, and it works well. A locking pointed main blade, a saw blade for sawing through the pelvis, and a blunt tipped blade for opening up the chest cavity.
The knife itself is about the size of a Buck 110, slightly thicker, came with a leather belt case.
They might also be slippery despite the serrations around the edges.I've been using a Browning 3 blade folding knife for years, and it works well. A locking pointed main blade, a saw blade for sawing through the pelvis, and a blunt tipped blade for opening up the chest cavity.
The knife itself is about the size of a Buck 110, slightly thicker, came with a leather belt case.
pikid89
Member
the one I had was great for skinning. Sure your hand got a little tired sometimes, but when processing 3 or 4 hogs. Like Sam said, it didnt hold an edge that long under use, but no knife ive ever had would when cutting thought feral hog skin.
That said, because they were so easy to sharpen, it was easy to just keep a 3 side diamond rod in my skinning kit,making it easy to touch up right there in the gut shack, rather than having to set up my Sharpmaker on a table somewhere
That said, because they were so easy to sharpen, it was easy to just keep a 3 side diamond rod in my skinning kit,making it easy to touch up right there in the gut shack, rather than having to set up my Sharpmaker on a table somewhere
Dirty Bob
Member
I use my little Caper as a lightweight food prep knife. The all-stainless design makes it easy to clean.
It works well for what I'm doing, but I recommend something with a better handle for game dressing. If price is an issue, a person could do a lot with a Mora knife of some sort.
All my best,
Dirty Bob
It works well for what I'm doing, but I recommend something with a better handle for game dressing. If price is an issue, a person could do a lot with a Mora knife of some sort.
All my best,
Dirty Bob
The only thing about the set that really caught my eye was the sheath/pouch that held everything. The knives themselves didn't exactly impress me but I have been wrong in the past, hence the reason for asking here. I think I will keep looking for something to replace my current set up.
Buck does the best job of anyone with 420, but it's still 420. As for the need for a gut hook, that's been a long standing debate. Loveless invented the drop point to specifically address the need to open up the hide on a game animal, from the inside out, with just one good knife. Having watched an experienced hunter dress out a deer with a 3" Case trapper, I've stepped away from having a "special" game dressing knife to see them for what they are - a specialty tool to sell. Butchers don't use them.
I've used a 5" Kabar and a Swiss Army knife, strangely enough, never a special deer knife, although I've spent money on them. At the point the animal is down, any sharp knife that can keep an edge is good enough. I'd step up into the general class of spear and drop points in a 3 1/2" locking folder with ATS34 grade steel as an EDC and call it good. Last season I carried a BM Rift and this year likely again. If I don't buy an ESEE Laser Strike.
At my age having a poly sheet to drag the carcass out overland is more important, protects the hide and skids along much easier.
I've used a 5" Kabar and a Swiss Army knife, strangely enough, never a special deer knife, although I've spent money on them. At the point the animal is down, any sharp knife that can keep an edge is good enough. I'd step up into the general class of spear and drop points in a 3 1/2" locking folder with ATS34 grade steel as an EDC and call it good. Last season I carried a BM Rift and this year likely again. If I don't buy an ESEE Laser Strike.
At my age having a poly sheet to drag the carcass out overland is more important, protects the hide and skids along much easier.
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