build me a tactical bolt action

[N1150X]

I am in the process of making a savage mod 11 in 308 into a real gun and have decided to drop about 1000-1300 dollars on it.

The first upgrade is a better stock because well Savage stocks really are cheaply made I will be replacing it with a Manners Composit stock but I dont know which one to get but it will be either the MCS-T2 or the MCS-GAT
http://mannersstocks.com/Tactical.html

The second is a scope I have already decided to get it wil be this one http://www.tactical-store.com/ts-br-rs-xtr312x50.html#

However this leaves the question of mounting the scope and I am totally lost as to how I will mount this thing however I would like a one piece bace and some good solid rings 30mm

This rifle is going to fill my target/hunting/plinking/tactical/varmit niche

So what would you choose from the things listed above

EDIT: I would like the base to have a 10-20 MOA elevation

 

[skinewmexico]

If you want to make it into a real gun, put your money into a barrel and trigger. Tactical in the product description doesn't make it real.

Don't know about the Manners, but I have B&C varmint/target that I really like. You could use the money you save to buy a new Shilen barrel. Depending on the distance you're shooting, it looks like the scope woud be underpowered, although I know people with good eyes would disagree. Ken Farrell bases in 10 or 20 MOA are hard to beat, as are Burris Signature Zee rings. Why buy a high dollar scope, and let your rings scar it up? In fact, I wouldn't fall into that whole tactical trap of rings, where the rings and bases have to be capable of falling out of a helicopter. Unless you'll be dropping it out of helicopters.

 

[GunDoctor]

Amen Skinewmexico. The barrel and then the trigger are the most important part of your accuracy. When it's all said and done just remember that you are poring all this cash into a Savage...? Put all that cash into a Remington 700P LTR TWS that has the Leopold scope already with it.

 

[Tarvis]

You are better off buying a high dollar scope and changing the trigger to a jewel or whatever brand. Doesn't matter how good your barrel/stock/trigger is if you can't see the target. I suggest a Nightforce or a Leupold VXIII or Mark 4 (have both, both are fantastic). If you do end up changing the barrel, there are many good manufacturers out there. From what I have heard, the founder of Lilja was a benchrest shooter that got started making barrels because he didn't think anyone made them right (kinda like berger). But honestly, if you can't shoot .5 inch groups at 100 anyway, there is no point in dumping a bunch of cash into a barrel that is going to be worn out (as far as benchrest is concerned) before you hone your skills enough (and get a load developed) to shoot little tiny groups at 1000 yards.

Consider keeping your barrel for at least a year to practice with/shoot groups/do a few classes and then change it (if you feel the need) to a match barrel.

Why buy a high dollar scope, and let your rings scar it up?

Why buy a low dollar scope and not be able to see as well? Rings marking up your scope is just part of the game. If you aren't planning on selling the scope, what does it matter anyhow?

As far as scope power, try reading this http://www.6mmbr.com/optics.html. It's geared more towards bench rest shooting, but may have some good info.

 

[Ash]

Put the cash into the Savage, you'll have a better rifle

I second Barrel and Trigger. Sharpshooter Supply can set you up.

Ash

 

[cluttonfred]

Hehe, I hate it when people don't answer the question, but I'm going to do it, too.

For the money you'll put in to that arrangement, you could get a nice Howa/Hogue Ranchland Security Rifle in .308, complete with 3-9x42 Nikko Sterling scope and add a bipod and still go home with change from $600. Jard and Timney both make aftermarket triggers if you feel the need.

Don't get me wrong, I like Savages, I just can't see spending that much money when you can get a rifle already equipped with a better stock and a good scope for less.

Then again, if you want to put together a tactical rifle, go for it, but you might better off starting from scratch, even with a heavy barrel and action from Savage.

 

[skinewmexico]

Rings marking up your scope is just part of the game.

That is the silliest thing I've heard said, when there is a product that doesn't do any damage. When you buy a new car, do you go out and key it, just to get it out of the way? Jeff Cochran managed to win the 2005 F-Class Nationals with Burris rings, so I'd say price isn't everything.

 

[Tarvis]

I hate it when people don't answer the question

Oops, I guess I didn't read very well. Badger Ordinance makes bases that are fairly heavy duty, I guess (haven't handled one myself). Nightforce makes bases as well, but are priced according to quality, which is around $140 last time I looked. My 700P has Leupold Mark 4 bases and rings, which come to around $300 iirc ($200 for bases, $100 for rings or something like that). I suggest you don't go cheap on the base. It seems like it's a non functional part that just needs to be a certain shape, but this is what you are screwing your scope to and must not move if you expect this thing to be accurate.

Jeff Cochran managed to win the 2005 F-Class Nationals with Burris rings, so I'd say price isn't everything.

Price is never everything, but the price and the quality seem to be related, although not always directly proportionate. Also, a hypothesis on rings and bases:
A given rifle (for this hypothesis) will have a certain recoil value of 1-100. A pair of rings, when properly attached, will have a strength value of 1-100. If a rifle in a certain configuration has a recoil lower than the strength value of the rings, they have a much lower chance of failing than a lower valued set of rings, meaning buy rings that will match the application of your rifle. If you shoot a 16 lb rifle in a mild recoil cartridge, you don't need to use a welder to attach the base to the rings to the scope. If you shoot a sporter weight rifle for 1-2 boxes a year, you probably don't need really high quality rings. If you shoot 2000-3000 rounds a year through a 10 lb 308 that gets some real field use, I probably wouldn't go with anything but the best.

It's better to blame a big group on too much coffee than to be worried if something has broken.

 

[Pigspitter]

I'm a fan of the HS Precision stock I have on my LTR. I also run a Burris Xtrema Tactical with Burris rings and I don't really see what the problem would be with them.

 

[N1150X]

I am pretty much stuck with a Manners stock because they are the only game in town for the stock I want and the price I am willing to pay. I am not ever going to consider getting a new barrel because the one I have shoots fine. All my question have been answered thus far except what stock should I get?

 

[GunTech]

Have you considered an Bell and Carlson? They make a decent tactical for the model 10,11 & 12 for around $200 which includes aluminum bedding block.

Warne makes a picatinny rail for about $100. TPS has decent rings for reasonable money.

Try looking here. Lots of Savage experts.

http://www.savageshooters.com/

 

[Powderman]

I looked hard and long at scopes and rings, and after a lot of study--and input from very experienced police marksmen--I went with the Burris Signature Zee rings in 30mm.

What's so good about them? What's NOT good about them? Rock solid mounting on normal Weaver bases, or on Farrell rails. Machined rings, from a solid steel billet. A polymer insert that grips the scope with 100% contact, will NOT let your scope walk or vibrate loose, and that pivot within the ring to endure that you don't have to lap the rings for contact.

Normal rings can and will scar the scope body, and you can overtighten them to the point where they will wreck the mechanisms inside the scope. Not the Burris Signature rings with the inserts!!

As for your choice of scope, you have made a very good choice. I use the 6-24x50 XTR. It's a bright, clear scope--hell for stout because the whole body is one piece of steel--not aluminum. Easy to put in your dope--1 click = 1 MOA for elevation, with half-minute clicks for windage. Turrets are positive, with lots of adjustment; clearly marked and easy to set and maintain your zero.

 

[FreeinAZ]

The Z rings from Burris also have different size inserts. If your scope is getting maxed out of elevation at long range, you can always change the insert (shimming almost) to get some more adjustment.

Another very good scope for the money is the Sightron. They track unbelievably well, and are very clear and bright.

 

[Powderman]

Of the two choices you mention, I'd probably go with the T2.

A question--how long do they take to fill an order?

 

[bl4ckd0g]

For the amount of cash that you're going to spend on a Manners stock, I'd suggest purchasing a better quality piece of glass.

Regarding the stock type, you should just call up Tom Manners and tell him you preferences and criteria so he can recommend you a stock and give an estimate on build time.

 

[USSR]

I am in the process of making a savage mod 11 in 308 into a real gun and have decided to drop about 1000-1300 dollars on it.

Big mistake. If you are going to customize a rifle, do it using a platform whereby the money you put into it, appreciates the value of the rifle. A Savage is an alright rifle as is, but after throwing all that money into one, you have: a Savage.

Don

 

[Ghost Tracker]

Seems to be opinions around here that the prudent budget ($1000-1300) is too wide a chunk of change to spend customizing a "lowly" Savage M11. Myself, I think it's a FINE starting point. Scope (w/rings, base), stock & trigger will chew-up most of that budget. If you start talking barrels, etc. you've gone well into the red. Seems to me, the OP isn't trying to appreciate the dollar-value of his investment, he's trying to increase his OWN appreciation of the rifle he already has. The money he's spending won't build a CUSTOM Tactical rifle, but it's plenty enough to go (well-below) MOA in a durable, enjoyable package. My advice? Shop carefully, spend at least half the budget on glass, find out how other Savage shooters are getting the most performance for the least money, and enjoy the process.

 

[MJ]

ARMS 30mm QD rings and solid base.

...MJ...

 

[N1150X]

Bell and Carlson is out because they have a top loading configuration which defeats the whole reason I bought the gun. Basically I want to be able to switch mags. But they are cheaper.

I challenge everyone who thinks the savage is a POS to put together a budget for a completely new rifle and stay within my means (I estimated shipping)

Savage M11 $400

MCS-T2 $500

Scope $660

Base $120

ARMS 30mm QD $75

Total $1755

There are three things this rifle has to have

1. Have the same scope
2. Have a stock similar to the MCS-T2
3. Have a detachable mag

As stated before I dont care what the gun is worth I want it to be worth something to me

 

[jbech123]

you seem to have your mind made up...

I challenge everyone who thinks the savage is a POS to put together a budget for a completely new rifle and stay within my means

I can't meet your Detachable Mag requirement, nor would I want the stock you mention(I love the remington HS stocks, for some reason they fit me like a glove, I would not trade it for a McMillan A5). Seems you have a very specific idea of what you want, so go for it. What worked for me:

Rem 700 milspec 5R - $980
Leupold VX-III - $610
Talley 1 piece ring/base - $50

For $1640 I have a reliable rifle that will shoot into the .4's when I do my part. There is no doubt I am the limiting factor in the equation of the accuracy potential of this rig. I do realize that if I were to start entering tactical matches and what not, it would probably be wise to upgrade my ring situation, but honestly the Talley's have been solid so far.

 

[USSR]

I challenge everyone who thinks the savage is a POS to put together a budget for a completely new rifle and stay within my means

Well, therein lies your problem. You have such a low budget that ONLY a Savage can fit into it. Be happy, be proud; just don't expect people whose budget allows for a choice between several options to agree with you.

Don

 

[Ash]

I dare say one could customize a Savage into a rifle that is equal in every way to any other production action built. Compared with the 700, they have far more in common, in reality, than they have different. There is nothing magical about the 700 action - or the 110 for that matter.

Ash

 

[GunTech]

The big advantage of the 700 over any other actions is the availability of aftermarket parts - triggers, stocks, mounts, etc.

Nothing wrong with the Savage or other rifles. I personally like the FN/Win M70 design. Whatever works for you. Ultimately, the range is the proving ground.

 

[R.W.Dale]

The big advantage of the 700 over any other actions is the availability of aftermarket parts - triggers, stocks, mounts, etc.

This might have been true 10yrs ago but not today. Any aftermarket manufacturer that has ANY brains offers their product to fit both the rem 700 and the Sav10/110 actions. In some categories the savage has more aftermarket support, try buying a prefit fully chambered and threaded barrel for a rem 700,and this brings us to the strongest argument for building a savage. When you want to do something more involved than changing stocks on a 700 you pay your gunsmith a fistful of $$$ and wait 6 months to get the work done. On a savage you pay your gunsmith NOTHING and do the work yourself in 45 minutes.


With the DIYer's best friend (savage) covering the bottom end of the custom market and astoundingly good aftermarket actions more affordable than ever WHY start with a 700 at all?

 

[MJ]

$875 ten years ago



.....MJ....