Tools,,,,
These are the tools I have and consider neccessary if you intend to build both halves of the rifle.
1. A good vise.
2.A Peace River upper receiver action block.
This is used to hold the upper in the vise while installing the barrel.
It prevents bending or springing the receiver if you get too agressive while torquing up the barrel nut.
3. A Peace River lower receiver holding block.
This holds the lower receiver in the vise while you tighten up the buffer tube.
It has some other uses too.
4. Set of barrel blocks.
You won't think you need these,,,until you try and properly install a flash hider.
Remember to remove your gas tube before you put the barrel in these blocks and squash them down in the vise.
4.A 4 ounce brass or steel crosspane hammer.
Enough weight to drive all the pins, head isn't so large you bounce it off the sides of the receivers.
5. Set of roll pin punches.
Use these, do it right the first time and you will never overflair a roll pin.
A roll pin punch works well for setting the front sling swivel rivet too.
6. Set of roll pin starter punches.
Again, do it right the first time and you will never overflair a roll pin or walk a standard punch off the roll pin and put a nifty, professional looking, gouge in the side of your new receiver.
7. A GOOD barrel wrench, and there are several to choose from.
The old standby USGI wrench works great if you plan on using the torque wrench and don't plan on ever installing two piece float tubes.
Smith Enterprise or DSA handled wrenches are even better and more versatile.
8. 100 foot pound minimum torque wrench.
These aren't absolutely neccessary, but I was trained in the Army so I still use one to achieve a minimum 35 foot pound set of the barrel nut.
Army trains that if you are getting to 80 pounds and it ain't lining up then replace the barrel assembly or at least the barrel nut.
35-50 foot pounds will effectively set most barrel nuts and float tubes in place.
9.Long shank, hollow ground screwdriver.
Used for tightening the buttsock screws and the pistol grip screw.
I keep a long shaft Brownells screwdriver with the Magna-bit end and two bits, one hollow ground and one Hex for old style pistol grip screws, in my AR tool box.
10. Set of headspace guages.
Guys will tell you these aren't needed.
I guess they have never received a barrel that wasn't fully finished from the manufacturer.
I headspace every single barrel and bolt combination before any is ever test fired, no exceptions, period.
11. pivot pin installation tool, fire pin protrusion guage, bolt vise, gas block taper pin punch, M4 collapsing stock wrench, good quality fabric strap wrench.
These are not really needed but they do make life easier.
