Bullet Jump in 9mm revolvers?

[KentM]

I’m thinking of getting a 9mm revolver for the wife, but am concerned about bullet jump.
Anyone with experience with handloaded ammo in a 9mm revolver? I understand that 9mm crimping isn’t normally a problem because it was designed for a semi-automatic, but that jump may occur in a revolver, especially light weight ones. I’m thinking a 4 inch barrel or so.

I load with a Lee carbide three-die set.

 

[Havok7416]

I shoot an LCR 9mm with my ammo of various configurations. So far none of my loads have had any sign of crimp jump.

 

[mcb]

If your using moonclips you can crimp the stew out of it if your concerned. It will head space on the moonclip.

 

[call1911]

Most bullets for 9 Para will have no crimp groove.
You take those bullets, apply a proper taper crimp and everything will work fine.
For convenience (easier loading of bullets into cylinder) your could use moon clips.

 

[kcofohio]

I did a test some time ago with some factory and reload ammo. Cheaper ammo such as Federal 115 gr value pack usually lost the bullet out of the case after 4 rds. Winchester's silver tip OAL only grew by .005" by the 4th round. I think my reloads, which included cast bullets, averaged about .010-.015" by the 4th firing.

I will see if I can find my notes later tonight.

 

[George P]

9mm revolvers that are small are a handful to shoot and shoot well.

 

[Typetwelve]

9mm revolvers that are small are a handful to shoot and shoot well.

Yes, I have a Charter Pitbull in 9mm and yes, it really sucks.

I've also had some issues with crimp jump. I was noting change in the recoil and POA as I went through a cylinder, so I decided to run some tests.

115g CCI Blazer brass was jumping an average of .050"
115g Fiocchi was jumping around .010"
Win 9mm NATO was also jumping about .010"

For the heck of it, I popped a CCI Blazer brass in the 5th slot with some NATO rounds and it jumped a whopping .103"! So much that I didn't want to shoot it.

 

[KentM]

(From the O.P.)
I should have asked posters about standard crimping in the Lee three-die set versus additional crimping dies, and which ones may have been found to work well in this application. Never needed an additional crimp die for use in my M&P.

 

[kcofohio]

Neck tension is key here. Crimping will not gain neck tension. Good sizing and minimal bell mouth, is what needs watch for.

 

[reddog81]

What 9mm revolver has a 4" barrel? There are a couple snub nosed models out there and the 6.5" barreled S&W 929. I've shot many thousands of rounds through the 929 without problem but that gun is N frame S&W.

 

[kcofohio]

What 9mm revolver has a 4" barrel? There are a couple snub nosed models out there and the 6.5" barreled S&W 929. I've shot many thousands of rounds through the 929 without problem but that gun is N frame S&W.

There are Blackhawk convertibles, I believe at one time Ruger offered the SP101 with a 9mm cylinder. Charter Arms, IIRC, offers a 4" barreled Pitbull.

 

[mdi]

I think he talks about bullet jump;

 

[EricBu]

If you're super concerned about it......you can buy a standalone .38spc/.357 seater die. Remove the seater guts, and adjust it until the roll crimp is correct and run that in the last station of your press, or crimp in the last operation if you run a single stage. 9mm doesn't generally have a cannelure for crimping, but any hi-tek coated or plated 9mm will bite just fine with a roll crimp. Personally, I wouldn't sweat it one bit......just run what you got.