SDC
Member
Ed, I do these all with hand tools (Dremel to start, but I finish everything flat with files). I usually slit the neck of the case so I can pull the bullet, dump the powder, then kill the primers with WD-40. I slit the cases down to the head with the Dremel, then go through the head with a hacksaw, then finish half the case flat with a file. For a bullet with a core that my files won't cut, I have to slit the bullet all the way around with a piece of fine-tooth hacksaw blade, then lift the core out and file everything flat again, then reassemble it.
The cores on the .30 M2 measure .242, and .422 on the .50 M2.
Here's a closer shot of the .30 M2 against a piece of 3/4" mild steel that I shot through with one; the lead "point filler" at the nose of the core is supposed to help the core "plant" against a hard surface while it's penetrating, so it supports it for a fraction of a second until the core starts to pierce; they used to use the same technique for anti-tank artillery rounds up to WW2, but shaped-charges made it obsolete for artillery.
The cores on the .30 M2 measure .242, and .422 on the .50 M2.
Here's a closer shot of the .30 M2 against a piece of 3/4" mild steel that I shot through with one; the lead "point filler" at the nose of the core is supposed to help the core "plant" against a hard surface while it's penetrating, so it supports it for a fraction of a second until the core starts to pierce; they used to use the same technique for anti-tank artillery rounds up to WW2, but shaped-charges made it obsolete for artillery.