Cleaning the front of the revolver's cylinder

[Flame Red]

Gents,

Wanted to get your experiences on SAFELY removing the black rings around each chamber on a BLUED revolver's cylinder.

I know I can use Flitz on a stainless revolver to remove them, but Flitz has abrasives and WILL eventually remove blueing. I know because when I use Flitz on a blued revolver I see blue come off onto the rags.

What is an absolutely safe method of remove the black rings without damaging the blueing?

Thanks!

 

[DragonFire]

There are several non-abrasive products on the market that give varying results, but I haven't found any that would completely remove the rings without removing the blueing as well.

I've settled for just removing the heavy deposits and any loose gunk that may be there, so it doesn't build up.

 

[Flame Red]

There are several non-abrasive products on the market that give varying results

Which ones seem to do the best?

 

[Walkalong]

Slip 2000 Carbon Killer works very well.

 

[Old Fuff]

This is a lost cause. What you see is a combination of lead build-up and a burn mark. Lead solvents will eventually loosten and remove the lead, but the burn marks are in the steel, and to remove them will require an abbrasive which will also remove the blue or plated finish. You can polish the rings off stainless steel cylinders because they have no finish to remove, but in any and all cases they will be back as soon as you fire the revolver again. Do remove the lead build-up, but forget the rest. It's a part of owning any revolver that's fired on a regular basis.

 

[crebralfix]

http://www.shootingusa.com/PRO_TIPS/MICULEK2/miculek2.html

Look at the fifth picture...it's just a bit dirty.

 

[Master Blaster]

I use a brass brush and some Hoppes elite cleaner, which is MPRO7 relabeled. It works very well on blued and stainless revolvers.

 

[strat81]

I use a brass brush and some Hoppes elite cleaner, which is MPRO7 relabeled. It works very well on blued and stainless revolvers.

I used MPro 7 and a nylon brush on my Cobra and it did a great job. There's a bit remaining, but it's much better than it was. The Mpro7 did a better job than plain ol' CLP.

 

[spwenger]

Yes and No

I use a brass brush and some Hoppes elite cleaner, which is MPRO7 relabeled. It works very well on blued and stainless revolvers.

Yes on the M-Pro-7 or equivalent water-base solvent - the stuff is highly detergent and will go a long way to cut through powder residue and that lead which is embedded in it.

No on the brass- or bronze-bristle brush. It will eventually wear through the bluing. Stick with a nylon-bristle brush and accept the fact that there will be a narrow ring visible around the front of each firing chamber. Better the ring than no bluing. The bronze-bristle brush is great on stainless-steel revolvers and, I suspect, would be okay on nickel-plated ones as well.

 

[Ifishsum]

When I bough my first revolver 16 years ago, I used to spend a lot of time trying to remove those black rings. They just come back when you fire it again, and they don't do any harm so I just clean the best I can with a patch and solvent and leave them alone. I came to the conclusion that no matter what you use, you will eventually wear through the bluing by always trying to remove them completely.

 

[SAWBONES]

Two suggestions that won't hurt the revolver cylinder face on either blued or stainless guns (or at least hasn't done so to any of mine so far):

1.) pink pencil eraser
2.) Iosso bore cleaner (get it from Brownells), which contains a bit of ammonia. Apply with cotton patch, let sit, rub-wipe with cotton patch.
Both of these will help.

Best is just to clean off the lead and firing residue so the cylinder face is flat, and not worry about the burn that's in the steel, for guns you actually shoot.

 

[Flame Red]

When I bough my first revolver 16 years ago, I used to spend a lot of time trying to remove those black rings. They just come back when you fire it again.

That makes a lot of sense.

I guess I was thinking of trying to keep it under control. But you are correct, I will probably do much more harm cleaning it all off (along with some of the blueing) trying to make it perfect every range session!

 

[Brian Williams]

I don't clean them off.

 

[Oro]

I use a brass brush and some Hoppes elite cleaner, which is MPRO7 relabeled. It works very well on blued and stainless revolvers.

Ditto - works fine for me. Another point is, if you reload, choose a clean powder if you can. I use WST for target/plinking/practice loads and it's very clean.

I would be cautious about polishing the cylinder face of a stainless gun with Mother's or Flitz. That is a machined face that controls the B/C gap. I honestly don't know how much polishing it would take to start opening up that gap, but at some point it will, theoretically.

 

[TOGGLELOCK]

Slip2000 will prevent the rings in the first place. G96 Triple Action Gun Treatment will eventually use chemical action (not harmful to the bluing) to disolve any traces of rust, leading and oxidation. TOGGLELOCK

 

[loud-mouth shnook]

'Nother kudo for Iosso bore cleaner here.
Great for cleaning forcing cones and the topstraps above them as well.

However, the only time I clean a cylinder face is if I either sell or trade off a gun as part of a courtesy detail cleaning, or if I'm cleaning a friend's gun that I took to the range.

I've heard that LeadFree cloths are good on stainless cylinder faces BUT ixnay on uedblay.

S'posed to strip that bluing right off.

 

[10X]

I used Bon Ami. It worked well and didn't scratch. Since it is a paste with water you must use oil afterwards.

 

[Dave Baird]

Man, am I glad to see a lot of people have a problem removing or attempting to remove the black rings. When I saw the title of this thread I was almost too embarrassed to open it!! I just use regular Hoppes #9 and either a stiff nylon or soft brass brush. That works pretty good, but the blued cylinders never really look new again. I've not had a problem with brass removing the bluing, I even use brass punches from time to time for various purposes and with no bluing loss.

Maybe I'll try Iosso at some time, but I only have one revolver now anyhow.

Dave

 

[rdoggsilva]

After 40+ years of shooting a revolver I just remove the lead from cylinder face. I do not even notice the black rings any more, unless it is on a stainless, then I do clean them off with Flitz.