Buying a first bow

[atek3]

I'm living in NY, and most of the good deer options around me are bow only. Also, of my hunting buddies, one of them hunts exclusively with bow, and offered me the opportunity to hunt his land, which is bow-only. So I went to a local archery range, played with one of their rental bows, saw that I could indeed do bow. At the time however, I was doing rehab for a shoulder surgery (I've broken my left shoulder twice, and separated my right shoulder once).

My thought process was wait until my shoulder was 100% before I buy a bow. Six months have gone by. I went out to Oregon, took my first buck last week.

Now I've been bit by the hunting bug. Here in New York, the options for bow hunting are much much better so I've decided to get a proper hunting bow as a first bow.

The problem I'm having is this. I stopped doing physical therapy about two months ago. My shoulders are about as good as they'll get pain and recovery-wise. My shoulders aren't in pain much per se, but my upper body strength is MUCH lower than it was prior to my last big injury. I went out to the range last night to see what weight I could physically draw and I learned the following... my draw weight right now is 50# max (I could draw ~3 times before fatigue made that weight "too much"). My Draw length is 28". Several experienced bow people recommended against practicing with way too heavy a bow as it would teach bad habits.

So I'm essentially considering a bunch of different options that I'd like your help sorting through:

1) Get something like a Bowtech Soldier with a 45-60# adjustment range. Practice with it at 45#, gradually raise the weight.
2) Get something a regular adult #60 hunting bow, adjust it down to 50#. Slowly work my way up to 60#.
3) Buy a 50# "starter bow", shoot it as a 40# bow until fifty is easy, then sell it and buy a fancy bow.

I've always gone by the adage, "buy once, buy right". Yet at the same time, I tell new USPSA shooters, rather than dropping $3k on a race gun (which they probably couldn't configure well anyway), shoot a used Glock 34 for a good amount of time, then after they learn what works and what doesn't work for them, THEN buy a race gun.

Applying similar logic, if the "race gun" is a tricked out Hoyt Carbon Element, what would the used Glock 34 of bows be? My two "bow mentors", one is a Hoyt guy and the other is a Bowtech guy, so recommendations from those line ups would be awesome. "Last year's model" bow would probably be the way to go, at least to start right?

atek3

 

[Sky]

By you write up I assume you mean compound bow. The let off of 75 to 80% is nice but getting it to the let off point can be rather hard if not done right....they kinda call it proper form but unlike many things proper form with a bow does make a big difference especially if brute force is not used.

There have been many a deer taken with a 45# recurve bow (or less) and what I am about to say is only my opinion and what worked for me.

IMO a compound bow is expensive and a pain to operate compared to a recurve. I own 3 compound bows..(2) PSE and (1) Bear attack and have the weights adjusted as low as I can get them at around 50 to 55#...I can adjust them up to the 70# range but have you ever tried to pull a 70# compound bow in a tree stand to the let off point quietly with minimum movement and quickly??....maybe you can and if so good for you.


If you have a recurve bow in the 40 to 45# range you can "work out" with the bow and continue to rehabilitate you upper body and maybe learn a few things along the way that will benefit you regardless of what you end up with later. A recurve will not group 6 arrows in a 3" ring at 25 yards like a properly tuned compound but you might be surprised at how tight you can shoot one...Also it really will help strengthen you "bow muscles" if you practice. Makes the use of the compound bow much easier because many things carry over.

If you go with a recurve to start with stay away from the short ones due to finger pinch or if you must have a short bow use a mechanical release. Another good thing about the recurve you can shoot various arrows without the spine concern that presents itself with some of the higher powered compounds. Archery shops and sometimes Ebay can be your friend for shopping and picking out what will serve your needs best.

These are just my thoughts and what I do for getting outside and doing some target practice in the back yard with a bow. I probably shoot 500 arrows for every one arrow shot with a compound unless I am changing a rest or a sight on a compound....Sometimes simple is the best medicine but whatever you decide good luck and happy shooting.

 

[R H Clark]

I haven't been into compounds for several years.Back then a compound would be the most efficient at the higher weight setting. I think I would try to get a good used bow that would max out at the lower end or a little above your comfort level.Remember drawing a bow is much easier standing during practice than when cold and shooting from weird angles.You shouldn't have to spend too much as the price of used bows drops about as much as used computers.

Use a cut on contact fixed head, a little heavier arrow, limit your distance and penetration shouldn't be a problem even at the legal limit in draw weight.I would also recommend spending some time learning about proper arrow tuning.A properly tuned arrow will penetrate much better than one that isn't.

 

[CMC]

I would reccomend the Mathews Mission Menace
http://missionarchery.com/Menace-bow.asp
It has a max of 52 pounds and it is adjustable for different draw lengths and at $269 you cant beat it.
It has a brace height of 7.25 inches
I dont know about the Bowtech soldier but it probably has a harsh draw and a short brace height.
If you want a Bowtech look at their single cams as they are very smooth draw.

 

[84B20]

I'm living in NY, and most of the good deer options around me are bow only. Also, of my hunting buddies, one of them hunts exclusively with bow, and offered me the opportunity to hunt his land, which is bow-only. So I went to a local archery range, played with one of their rental bows, saw that I could indeed do bow. At the time however, I was doing rehab for a shoulder surgery (I've broken my left shoulder twice, and separated my right shoulder once).

My thought process was wait until my shoulder was 100% before I buy a bow. Six months have gone by. I went out to Oregon, took my first buck last week.

Now I've been bit by the hunting bug. Here in New York, the options for bow hunting are much much better so I've decided to get a proper hunting bow as a first bow.

The problem I'm having is this. I stopped doing physical therapy about two months ago. My shoulders are about as good as they'll get pain and recovery-wise. My shoulders aren't in pain much per se, but my upper body strength is MUCH lower than it was prior to my last big injury. I went out to the range last night to see what weight I could physically draw and I learned the following... my draw weight right now is 50# max (I could draw ~3 times before fatigue made that weight "too much"). My Draw length is 28". Several experienced bow people recommended against practicing with way too heavy a bow as it would teach bad habits.

So I'm essentially considering a bunch of different options that I'd like your help sorting through:

1) Get something like a Bowtech Soldier with a 45-60# adjustment range. Practice with it at 45#, gradually raise the weight.
2) Get something a regular adult #60 hunting bow, adjust it down to 50#. Slowly work my way up to 60#.
3) Buy a 50# "starter bow", shoot it as a 40# bow until fifty is easy, then sell it and buy a fancy bow.

I've always gone by the adage, "buy once, buy right". Yet at the same time, I tell new USPSA shooters, rather than dropping $3k on a race gun (which they probably couldn't configure well anyway), shoot a used Glock 34 for a good amount of time, then after they learn what works and what doesn't work for them, THEN buy a race gun.

Applying similar logic, if the "race gun" is a tricked out Hoyt Carbon Element, what would the used Glock 34 of bows be? My two "bow mentors", one is a Hoyt guy and the other is a Bowtech guy, so recommendations from those line ups would be awesome. "Last year's model" bow would probably be the way to go, at least to start right?

atek3

I have decided to get back into the archery world after a 40+ year hiatus, archery was my sport in college, and went to a local archery shop for a lesson. Anyway I decided to buy a bow that evening because I was so impressed with the shop and the instructor’s expertise (he happened to be a Native American which only further impressed me). Long story short, I bought a Mission Craze by Mathews at his suggestion (he also showed me other bows but this one seemed to be the best fit). I really liked the size and the versatility. The axel to axel size is 28", the pull ranges from 19" to 30" and pull weight is from 15 lbs. to 70 lbs. This is a bow I can grow into but is great at 50 lbs. for training. Here is a link:

http://missionarchery.com/Craze-bow.asp

By the way the cost was very reasonable, less that $300. They don't show it on the website but the color of mine is all black, it matches my M4 perfectly.

 

[84B20]

I think I would try to get a good used bow that would max out at the lower end or a little above your comfort level.

I thought about getting a used bow but after taking a lesson I learned that a bow really has to fit you correctly. Trying to find one that matches your physique can be challenging. As a matter of fact I was at a gun show recently and a friend who went with me bought a used bow. He took it to a local archery shop and after trying to fit it to his draw length and pull weight he discovered it would not work for him. He is now in the process of trying to sell it at the next gun show. Now, I know what you are going to say, they were trying to sell him a new bow, but I didn't get that impression from them. They seemed very sincere in the way they treated him, they did not try to sell him anything. They just worked on the bow and didn't even charge him for the service.

 

[R H Clark]

You do need to get your draw length checked but most modern compounds should be adjustable within the most common range.They have to be so that they wil fit the market.The exception would be if you have an extremly short or long draw.

Having said that you do need to know a little about the bow you are buying,which is easy enough with internet on your phone.I have a 10 year old compound that cost me $600 new but would probably bring about $60 now.You do have to be sure you aren't buying a donosaur or a bow designed for young adults.

 

[Sky]

http://missionarchery.com/Craze-bow.asp

That is a neat bow and draw weight set up! As if I need another compound!!

 

[dprice3844444]

start working out to get yourself back in shape.cheap 45lb bow should be a good start.don't get too crazy with the poundage,50-60 should be good after your back in shape.check local laws where your going to hunt for minimum bow poundage requirements

 

[84B20]

start working out to get yourself back in shape.cheap 45lb bow should be a good start.don't get too crazy with the poundage,50-60 should be good after your back in shape.check local laws where your going to hunt for minimum bow poundage requirements

The only flaw in your suggestion is why buy a bow that you can outgrow? With the Craze that one bow can be set up for a beginner and easily configured for someone with more experience. I have a friend that is probably going to buy one for himself and his wife. With a simple change that can be done without a bow press he can set it up for his wife. When she is comfortable in her skill she can then get one for herself. At least that is his thinking.

 

[usmccpl]

Where is it written that a recurve won't shoot with accuracy? Somebody needs to tell Howard Hill and Bryon Fergeson. I aint trying to sell the OP on a recurve but don't tell him it compound or nothing.

 

[84B20]

Where is it written that a recurve won't shoot with accuracy? Somebody needs to tell Howard Hill and Bryon Fergeson. I aint trying to sell the OP on a recurve but don't tell him it compound or nothing.

I started out with a long bow and eventually got a recurve. That was 40+ years ago and the compound hadn't even been invented yet. But... the thing about the long bow as well as a recurve it takes a lot of practice, much more than a compound to be proficient with them. Imagine stalking an animal with anything but a compound and holding the full weight of the bow until your arm begins to shake. If you miss, either the arrow goes off into the woods, or worst case you hit it in a non vital spot and... I'm just saying.

 

[usmccpl]

I can imagine it I was hunting today with a 75 lb draw Hoyt recurve.

 

[atek3]

So my hunting/archery mentor is making me a good offer on a decked out Mathews Z7. I'm going to go test it tomorrow and if I like it, I'll have a sweet setup.

Mathews z7, spot hogg hunter sight, QAD Ultrarest, Easton A/C/C Pro Hunter Arrows, plus stabilizer, quiver, release, etc.

I'm excited.

atek3

 

[Sky]

Z7 is supposed to be a good fast Bow but I have not messed with one: Good luck!

 

[va1911]

I'm pretty sure NY is allowing crossbows for the first time this year, no? Why not go that route if you are still having physical issues and just want to get out and hunt more?

 

[jbkebert]

I own a Z7 and I will tell you its a great bow. As mentioned about the Mission Craze and the Menace are good bows without the steep price tag of a Z7. I went on a hunt with a gent who was shooting a 38# Mission Menace. At 23 yards his arrow passed through a Red Deer Cow. Pretty impressice for no more than he was shooting.

I myself hunt with either a Mathews Switchback or my Z7. Both are set are right around 52#. Of the 30+ animals I have taken with these two bows. Each and every shot has resulted in a pass through. Three shots at 35-40 yards and one shot at 53 yards. You don't need alot of poundage.

I have no problem shooting a recurve I really enjoy it. However the OP stated that he has some shoulder problems. Holding a recurve at full draw with a hurt shoulder is not fun. A compound bow with a smooth draw cycle like the Z7. Will be much more enjoyable and easier for the OP to shoot well. Nothing against recurves just plain and simple truth.

 

[atek3]

I went and tested it. Sweet Bow!

He gave me a good deal on it, so now I've got a decked out Z7.

Right now it's set to 48#, which I can draw without pain. Next up will be taking it to a pro-shop to have them adjust it to fit me 100%.

thanks,
atek3

 

[Sniper X]

Man! those limbs sure look pre bent! Looks like it is drawn fully at rest! Might be the picture though.

 

[atek3]

it's the picture. I'm taking the pic at a 45 degree angle... it's a normal parallel limb hunting bow.

 

[atek3]

darn bow didn't fit in the first bow case... doh.